Member postings for AStroud

I used magnets to attach a shield on my BCA and found the chips they attracted soon became annoying + the magnets grabbed any tool that I went close with. Quickly changed to another method.

My low tech solution, small boxes made from cardboard and ex spice racks from a boot

sale

I have started building Gerry's beam engine and have wondering about the linkage and alignment.

Would it be a bodge or cheating if I mounted the cylinder base on a pivot to allow it to move slightly. It would seem preferable to any binding at the gland or piston. The pivot could be hidden if necessary and I am guessing any movement would be hardly noticeable.

Andrew

In the late 70's I remember being taken around a Perkins diesel production line as an interviewee after a graduate apprenticeship, we had been warned the workers may appear hostile. We were catcalled all the way around presumably because we looked like management. It was quite intimidating.

Edited By AStroud on 21/01/2023 09:14:16

Hi David

Yes I have and do not remember any problems apart from one or two minor dimensions not shown but easy to either derive or choose to suit.

I did freelance some features

Andrew

My go to for O ring selection is the James Walker catalogue, downloadable as a pdf from their website, p29 onwards has groove design for o ring size.

I used the designs shown on Magonhrc to build my own cylinders, roughly the size you mentioned.

I have used them at up to 150 psig without any disasters or leaks.

Try this site for inspiration **LINK**

There are sections for farm machianry and construction vehicles

Often wondered how pre-order differs from order, here it seems the same thing. Maybe its the delivery time.

Thanks Noel

Whilst there are many diagrams of hydraulic pumps and motors available I could not find much for air motors though I suppose there many similarities

I did consider air passages down the pistons to the swivel joints and possibly through the slipper pads for lubrication and pressure compensation but decided it was a step too far for the moment.

Andrew

Hi

Here's a picture of my own design axial piston air motor. There are 6 12mm dia pistons in the barrell which will rotate around the angled swash plate which will be on an axle to allow the angle to be varied. The aluminum valve plate is stationary, held against the barrell with a spring and will have radial adjustment to allow valve timing variation.

To finish I need to shorten the shaft, mount the swash plate on an axle with gear and worm for adjustment and machine the ports in the valve plate. I also need to figure out the radial adjustment of the plate whilst allowing it to self align to the barrell.

I am slightly concerned there will be too much friction to allow it to run and possibly too much leakage at the valve plate/ barrell seal, we shall see.

Andrew

Hi Duncan

When I had a similar issue it turned out the rotor which detects the flow had fallen off. Maybe something to bear in mind if the switch itself turns out to be OK.

Andrew

You may aspire to becoming a Chartered Engineer and a member of the M.I.Mech.E , be good to check with them the entry requirements.

Andrew

Hi Chris

Welcome to the forum, look forward to hearing about and seeing your interests.

Andrew

Hi John

Contraption??!!

Its a half built IC engine, based roughly on one of Brian Rupnow's designs, he gives them all names but I have forgotten which one I used for inspiration but it has an overhead cam.

Having built a Potty mill engine and a Monitor I thought I should make an IC engine but stalled when it came to making the cams. I do not have a dividing head and could not see an easy way. The model got pushed to the back and I made a Corliss instead, in the photo you can see a scrap cylinder, milled the steam chest too deep.

I do plan to finish the IC engine, just waiting for the right inspiration to come along.

Andrew

I got fed up with oil cans that leaked, seemingly even if not being used so I made my own from bits in the scrap box.

Not the most ergonomic design but it works well and does not leak at all.

Andrew

Finished my own design mill engine

If used in steel buildings the bolts are likely to be high strength friction grip where the shear is taken by the friction between the 2 clamped surfaces.

Thanks for the replies.

I wanted to avoid stripping out the main spindle and so not use a made up belt.

The only reason for looking at the leather belting was the mechanical joint sounds more dependable as I wonder about the effectiveness of the green belt joint by fusing together but sounds like it should not be any issue.

Andrew

Edited By AStroud on 31/10/2021 12:18:10

Hi BCA owners

My Mk111's belt has a crack in it at what looks like the joint about 50% through so only a matter of time before it goes. It is not the orignal belt but certainly pretty old, some poly* material I think.

I put a hot knife blade in the crack then pressed it together and held until it cooled but no sign of any join or weld.

I see on ebay there is round leather belting available, 5/16" dia with a staple to join, meant for sewing machines and I wondered if anyone had tried this at all and what the experience is. If not good then I will try some of the round poly belt that is available.

I would be greatful for any advice/experience in the belt replacement.

Andrew