Member postings for Sam Longley 1

If you have hundreds to do & you are doing ot one handed then you should not be doing it of a ladder

Presumably this is a commercial operation and a proper risk assessment should have been done with a proper method statement written. I do not believe " balancing off a ladder" is a proper method. If you continue then i suggest someone is an idiot.

Re assess the job & look at it properly . Then you will find it much easier & may i suggest possibly quicker

I give up. Using wifi in french harbours is a nightmare. As for reading the mag on pocket mags i had hoped to be able to read as i went along---- forget it !!!!!!

Not really an engineering topic as lathe is laid up for a few weeks whilst my main hobby takes hold. Sailing from boulogne to dieppe i had to motor due to no wind managed to get this around my prop which stopped me dead. After much reversing and forwarding i managed to get prop turning a little & with the aid of the tide returned to boulogne at 2 kts. I managed to find a diver in 1.5 hours for 50 euros ( not bad considering eastbourne would be £150-00.

this was part of the rubbish

then my wife rang the mother of the md of the propellor manufacturer who was visiting our club ( the mother lives next door to the club so went & collared him) he rang me to talk me through checks to see if the rubber bush in the prop had sheared

all ok so now on my way to channel islands again

Neil

I cannot post a new thread

I can enter text in the main box, place a description, but not place any text in the "thread" title box

Is that just me or part of the ongoing improvements

Thanks

Actually that can backfire.

I was asked to alter the design of what would have been a £30K reception desk we were quoting for a client & the extra cost £ 4500-00

Because they complained ( but could not get it cheaper elsewhere & spent 4 weeks trawling the market, so went with us) I went on site & supervised the work personally.I had pre prepared the job & it went like a dream

I actually did the extra part in a day & the MD said " you did that in a day, how can you justify £ 4500" I jokingly said " that only cost £500" he said " what was the " £ 4K for " I said Knowing how to do it"

The bar steward knocked me for £ 4K

I had worked for them for years so refused to do any more, but to get some more work done 6 months later the buyer tried to tempt me with an extra £4.5k as an apology & i suspect the MD knew all about it. I actually accepted £ 4K & we shook hands

Leave the 4 jaw in & then you only have to mount the 3 jaw in the 4 jaw without all the bolting up.

I saw an engineer do this & he reckoned it made the 3 jaw more accurate.

What I have done is removed the guard & rotated the bar so the machine thinks the guard is in place.

I was considering just disconnecting the wires from the switch on the bar & re routing them to a new switch on the bed

Now Graeme has told me it is 24 V I assume I need a limit switch from someone like RS Components

I just need to sort out which one because Graeme has pointed out that the motor does not cut out instantaneously so I am not sure if that affects bed travel after it hits the switch so the switch may need to be a type of plunger or snap action & I have to determine which one

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 24/05/2016 07:51:45

Graeme

Thanks for that

I will PM you on my return when I have confidently opened up the headstock & found I am lost !!!!!!!!

Thanks --Essex, CM0 7LY

But I am off sailing to Channel Islands & then to Brest for the next couple of months starting in next couple of days

However, if i could find which wires to use I am sure i could work out how to rig a switch. I could just extend them.

Then I need to find a suitable switch. I am assuming 240 V. Is that correct ?

I think it is different. It is a 1.1 Kw delta Inverter drive Ac induction motor.- Whatever that is !!!

I removed the chuck guard almost immediately & that has a mounting bar with a switch somewhere along the line that disables power when the guard is raised.. If that has 2 wires to it then I could divert them to another switch on the bed. That would mean i would not have to touch any PCB etc.

I just need someone who has had one of these apart to give me the heads up on how best to go about it & if it is possible

Today I had a bit of a calamity & may have damaged my WM 250 lathe

I was using the powered drive to reduce some bar stock & had the topslide retracted so that the tool was over the centre of the unit to maintain max rigidity of the tool. As the tool approached the chuck I did not notice that the carriage hit the stop & jammed the leadscrew. I made the mistake of trying to disengage the drive rather than turning off the power so it was forced up hard before the motor stalled

This happened partly because my old Drummond M automatically disengaged at a set point & I was not used to having to make a special act to stop this

Is there a switch that can be fixed onto the bed to disengage the power or has anyone actually fitted such a thing or is there any alternative to avoid a repeat of such stupidity

Clearly too shy to approach persons with hands on hips & bags over right shoulders then

What a failure !!!

I was there on the dot at 12-00 hours until 12-11.

I felt like Billy no mates

I had my left hand on my hip, my Tracy tools bag over my right shoulder , I fluttered my eye lids - did I get a single yorkshire " Allo luvvie how's your forum thread?"

Not one - 364 miles round trip & did not meet one of you.

My mother in law would have pulled better on the Pancras road on a rainy night ( for those not in the know PM a Londoner for an explanation)

Still I did manage to get fleeced of a few hundred £'s & get told to "F off" by the bloke on the Myford stand ( Must have been an ex Leyland employee). Really could do with a lesson on customer relations

I was impressed by a particular Stuart beam engine built by the chap with the traction engine just outside though.

All in all a good day out

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 22/05/2016 17:52:48

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 22/05/2016 17:53:29

Recovering from a rather windy trip in the boat from Ramsgate to Bradwell yesterday. Winds F 5-F 7 on the nose meant a few wet waves down the back of the neck. left for Dover on Monday with 2 friends, Boulogne on Tuesday. nearly run down in Mid Channel by what looked like a supply vessel called Polarstern. As we crossed its path at .5 mile range it kept altering course towards us (as stand on vessel it should have maintained a straight course & run behind us) so that we could not clear its path. Finally at a range of 150 metres I lost patience & screamed down the VHF & the helm woke up & quickly veered away. A rather shaken up yacht crew I might say.Clearly the watch was not watching in one of the worlds busiest shipping lanes

We had meant to stay in Boulogne a day but as forcast was F5-7 northerly for Thursday we left a day early to encounter fog of less than 150 yards in places so crossing the Channel was cancelled & we crawled east to Dunkerque.

That meant on Thursday we had an exciting reach to Ramsgate followed by a long thrash back to Bradwell on Friday in choppy weather

On Monday I am off to do the exact same trip again with 2 different friends except this time I hope to have a day in Boulogne instead of having to go to Dunkerque. Back on Friday in time for Doncaster on Sunday - Hope it is worth the drive

Home for a week then off to cruise the Channel Islands & round to Brest for a few weeks but this time on my own. So the Stuart 10V is on hold for a while

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 14/05/2016 21:31:08

1) I always thought BSP stood for British steel pipe but apparently it is British standard pipe - Is that correct?

2) I always thought BSP threaded items had a tapered thread but it seems that they are parallel & if I want tapered it is BSPT

3) I thought one could put a tapered thread to a tapered thread male to female. Apparently not so. Hence female to female straight connectors are parallel threads& the male part going in are the tapered part only. Is that correct?

Can someone enlighten me please because it is 45 years since I had any dealings with steel water pipe & my memory is a blank.

Someone cannot make a joint between 2 male pipe ends ( parallel) with a straight piece & i noted it is parallel threads to parallel threads & suggested a tapered thread straight connector ( Female/female) & was told not made cannot be done. I even suggested if they could not get straight connector use a "T" & stick a tapered plug in the spare end. Once again i was told to go away

It is  on a water tank in a boat

Is that right or wrong, Have I totally lost my marbles.

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 05/05/2016 14:02:22

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 05/05/2016 14:03:44

I have a large selection of whitworth taps & dies from 3/16 up aquired years ago. It is suplimented by BSF & some metric ones varying from 4-12mm plus BSF & UNF but not really the smaller modelling sizes.

So I will be taking my credit card to Doncaster on the 22nd in the hope of finding something useful.

my question to the more experienced is this:-

If I had to buy a set of good quality smaller model makers taps & dies what would be the best threads to go for to give me the best & most economical range in future model steam engine construction ? should I go for BA, metric or some other thread . I ask because there would be no point - for instance- getting BA if most sizes are specified in metric & metric nuts & bolts are cheaper or easier to obtain. Or if the range is more suitable to most small steam models

So what sets do engineers find the most used in their kits & what sort of size range these days & is it just because they have them or because they are sizes that get specified the most

Also any suggestions on manufacturer that might be available

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 04/05/2016 19:08:15

Thanks for the reply Jason but I was thinking of taking them to the Doncaster exhibition & actually comparing them physically with what is on offer & see if that gets a result.

If that does not work then I will take your advice

So if I have bought a set of  insert tool holders from Warco what inserts do I buy to fit them ?

Apart from a type of tip for a particular material, how do I know what tip will fit the tool holder I have?

Is it a case of -once i buy a holder i always buy the tips from that supplier- because what i have read here just leaves me lost

I am a bit wary of buying more tips from Warco as almost as soon as the cut off tip touched a bit of aluminium it just crumbled & I seem to get better cuts with HSS  & a couple of brazed carbide tools I have than the other tips

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 03/05/2016 18:47:18

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 03/05/2016 18:48:21

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 03/05/2016 18:48:46

Throwing in a few "there is something sexy about your sister " comments can that stir the emotions too