Member postings for Andrew Tinsley

I stand corrected on the fit of the back bar, seems that I am making more mistakes in typing a message than doing the job!

In actual fact my back bar is a push fit into the end castings. I have yet to set it up on a surface plate to find if I have made it too tight a fit! This I shall do, I just hope I have sufficient clearance to do the 4 fag paper test for truth, as specified by the Professor.

Andrew.

Interestingly enough, the rear bar should be a push fit and the front bar should be looser as it slides along between the two end castings.

Professor Chaddock actually set up his Quorn across a surface plate, there should be sufficient movement of the bars so that the assembly dries FLAT.

Someone said that high viscosity 601 is the thing to use. I would have thought a lower viscosity (almost gap filling) would be better. The end pieces that support the bars are almost a couple of inches thick, so maybe getting the Loctite everywhere would demand a somewhat lower viscosity? Just thoughts with no real knowledge of the subject!

Thanks everyone,

Andrew.

Whoops! I misread KWIL reply. He says that it is LOW viscosity for the 601. Should have gone to Specsavers. Sorry KWIL

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 21/06/2017 12:29:17

Hello,

I recently purchased a Chinese external turning tool from Arc and I find it to be problematical. It gives a half decent finish when used to turn down a bar of mild steel, but the finish is awful when facing off.

Now I have the highest regard for Arc, especially Ketan, who has spent some considerable time on the phone, helping me out on another topic (and he was paying for the call!). I DO NOT believe that the tool and tip are rubbish! I suspect that I am doing something wrong and I cannot figure out what it is!

I am not a raw beginner and have used HSS tools for a long time, achieving very fine finishes when required. I really don't know what I am doing wrong with this tool! It is 6mm square and is being used in a good quality Dickson type tool holder on an ML10. The tip came with the tool. I just wanted to try a tipped tool to see how it faired.

Andrew

I am just about ready to start assembling the base and column for the Quorn. Professor Chadock talks of using Loctite to assemble the base components. I assume this was a long time ago and Loctite was Loctite!

So what grade of Loctite would he have been referring to for this application?

Andrew.

I am just too hot to venture into my shed, which must be like an oven. Otherwise I would measure up the required thread!

Google and my library don't seem to help either. I am after the imperial threads, definitely acme but what pitch and diameter?

I shall probably need to buy or make some replacements, when I am able to get mobile again after my latest attack of sciatica!

Thanks everyone,

Andrew.

Thanks everyone,

I should have enough info now, great helpful bunch on this forum!

Andrew.

Hello Michael,

It did occur to me that the whole caboodle may be canted. However on checking with the tops of the first and final pulley, the centre pulley seemed to be pretty upright! It is a mystery to me although itdoesn't get hot enough (quite) so that you cannot keep your hand on it.

Thanks,

Andrew.

Hello Ian,

I don't have the luxury of a variable speed motor, so I am stuck with what I have, a 2 pole 2880 rpm motor!

Thanks Clive, sounds as if I should go with around 1250 feet per minute. Now to go and find the diameter of the rollers!

Thanks all,

Andrew.

I have done a fair amount of aluminium casting in the past. I used car pistons as a source material. Provided you follow the instructions to the letter from say Terry Aspins book. You will be rewarded with decent aluminium castings, that machine well. Any deviation from the rules and you are on your own. It isn't difficult but you will need to buy some "wash" to coat your melting pot and also some material to chuck in to help remove the dross.

Andrew.

I purchased a beautifully made linisher some 35 years ago! It doesn't have a stand or motor.

I have sourced a new 1/3 HP two pole motor and I have a frame from the scrap box, so all I need is a switch, belt, 2 pulleys and a guard.

So my query is what should be the optimum speed of a linisher belt? Knowing this, I can source the correct pulley ratio that is needed. Feet per second is the desired quantity or indeed metres per second!

Thanks in advance,

Andrew.

I have done a strip down and found the eccentric shaft to be a sloppy fit in the pillar drill, top block, however this doesn't rotate. The ball race that connects the multi step pulley wheel to the other end of the eccentric shaft is in good order. I put it all back together for some trial drilling. Guess what, the centre portion of the top block got quite hot.

Checking the bearing's temperature revealed that it was about the same temperature as the centre of the block! I give up, I cannot see why there is so much heat generated and where it is coming from.

Andrew.

Thanks Nicholas!

The exploded diagram looks to be the information I am after. I did not realise that the centre pulley is on a crank! Makes me wonder what could possibly cause so much heat to be generated? The drill has had very little use as my friend would normally use his mill for drilling. In fact I doubt he has ever changed the speed! he is not exactly very savvy when it comes to things mechanical!

So I must assume the ball race is the culprit for the excess heat, at least it looks simple to change, contrary to my first quick impression.

Thanks again,

Andrew.

A friend of mine has a 12 speed pillar drill, Clarke badged. It is the sort that has 3 pulleys.

Drilling a few holes in Perspex made the centre main bearing run very hot! The cast iron block (?) which supports the three pulleys was getting hot in the middle and I assume this is because the centre bearing is bad.

A quick look at the offending item, gave no signs of any lubrication points, indeed it looked as if getting the centre shaft out of its bearing housing was not going to be easy. Can anyone throw any light on what type of bearing this would be? Or is it likely to be a shaft in a reamed hole in the block! Before I attempt to dismantle it, I would not mind some more info.

Thanks,

Andrew.

Thanks Jon and Martin,

Looks like just what is required, I shall try both cleaning methods and see what works best for me.

Andrew.

Not sure if I have the name correct, but I am looking for a source of file cleaning material.

I have just used the last of my 25 year old cache and need some more!

Andrew.

An admirable post Ketan.

Andrew.

Hello Eric,

I too do not much like acid about the place. however Phosphoric acid does not have the effect of the other common acids. I am quite happy to fish out files from solution with my hands, provided it is not too hot. It does go for concrete though.

I will give your electrolytic method a try when I have any more blunt files. All of mine are now sharp!

What is the working solution for the electrolytic solution?

Regards,

Andrew.

When a local DIY multiple closed down, several years ago. I picked up a very similar one for £15. I chose the best of three that were left and assumed it might be OK for a little light drilling with a few tweaks.

Well, it is still going strong and manages a 15mm blacksmith drill, in steel, with no sweat! I am constantly amazed at what it does. I have been waiting for the motor to expire, but no sign of that yet. I modified the grub screw in the quill groove with a brass spacer, and trued up the table and that is about all I have done to it.

I have a 1/2 inch Fobco which is more or less unused, I need to change the motor to a single phase job. However I am too lazy to do the conversion while the cheapie Chinese drill keeps going.

Andrew

Hello again,

"Files are cheap these days". Well they may be cheap, but I have had no success with cheap files, they seem to be worn out within hours of unpacking them. I only buy good files and they are damn expensive!

My experiment with a file in the phosphoric acid at ambient temperature was interesting. After 3 days things seemed to be going well and the file was very noticeably sharper than it was.

The morning of the 4th day was a disaster. The liquid had turned a milky blackish colour. On taking out the file, it was covered with a whitish green substance. Allowing it to dry out showed the typical greenish hue of weathered copper. The file was very blunt, although this may well have been because of the thick deposit on the file.

Any chemist here who can say what is going on here? The change overnight was from a clear solution of phosphoric acid with some black particles on the bottom, perhaps coving 30% of the base. In the morning there was only this milky solution tinged black.

Andrew.

I am totally amazed at the length of this topic. I never think twice about putting an MT2 taper into my Rohm chucks. Just push the chuck taper into the chuck and the MT2 taper into the tailstock and go drill something! What is so difficult about this? Or am I really missing something?

Andrew

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 05/06/2017 11:10:31