Member postings for Andrew Tinsley

Thanks everyone for your comments and help. i have the cable on order.

Andrew.

I am just about to order some 4 core cable to go between VFD and 3 phase motors. In the past I have never bothered to use screen cable. Lots of argument here about which end of the screening to earth or both! So far I have not been bothered with air or mains born interference.

However I have run out of the old unscreened cable so should my new purchase be screened cable, just in case I ever run into RFI or mains born interference?

If so any recommendations for a supplier. My local and usual go to firms, either supply unscreened cable or armoured cable (which seems to be a bit OTT for the application.

Thanks,

Andrew.

There was someone offering a similar service on Ebay several years ago and two of my friends used him for replacement leadscrew nuts. He did an excellent job for very reasonable prices.

I don't know if the current offer is by the same person, I wil lcheck with my friends to see if they can remember who it was!

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 16/05/2020 17:08:33

Thanks Jason and Nick, that explains all. There isn't a confirmatory email in my spam box either, which was a touch bothering.

Many Thanks,

Andrew.

I was referring to Brexit.

Regards,

Andrew.

I ordered the three for a pound MEW offer, getting on for a month ago. It included the direct debit details needed for further issues.

Since then I have heard nothing not even an acknowledgement. Last time I checked there was no sign of a direct debit on my bank account either.

I appreciate that these are difficult times and delay may well be the normal. Just a touch bothered in case the order has been lost.

Regards,

Andrew.

A bit of a minefield, which comes down to personal choice in the end. Fluorescent tubes can be had in most colour temperatures, just like the LED replacements. So if you are happy with the colour temperature of your old fluorescents then get the same in LEDs

I find 6000 degrees K fine for workshop use, but horrible in the house, where I much prefer 4000K.

Andrew.

I have a Pratt Burnerd 6 jaw, which I use infrequently on my Myford. It seems to be a bit of a specialist chuck, Ideal for turning thin sections without too much distortion.

Mine came with (I think) 6 sets of jaws. The usual inside, outside and soft jaws.Plus other sets that baffle me, one has slender triangles radiating from the outside of the jaws. I can't quite visualise the others as they never get taken out of the storage box..

I was given the chuck in an unused condition, I would never spend that sort of money for such a thing. Much better to buy a decent 3 jaw, Bison and TOS (if they are still in business) would get my money anytime.

Andrew.

Clive may well be right about etching files, just removing the junk and hence seem to have been improved! It certainly wasn't the case with the phosphoric acid treatment. I meticulously clean my files after use. So the acid treatment does resharpen the files to a useful extent.

Andrew,

I have used reasonably concentrated, hot phosphoric acid. I simply dumped the files into the solution. The results were good. It extended the life of the files by a reasonable amount. Certainly cost effective, as the the phosphoric acid is cheap on Ebay.

Please note that the files were not "as good as new". I simply got a significant extension to their lives. In my opinion it was worth the effort. Others may not agree.

Andrew.

Like Andrew suggests, I have used hot rolled plate for cylinder covers on a large 71/4" narrow gauge loco.. NDIY's concerns have been totally groundless in this particular case.

Andrew.

Do yourself a favour and get 8 mm tooling, for all the above reasons. As far as QCTs are concerned , hold fire. I tooled up my ML7 and ML10 with the type that "old" Myford supplied. The subbie that made them for Myford, occasionally does runs of them. Excellent quality and not quite outrageously priced.

Years later, when I wanted to do some precise, repeatable work, I had problems. Turns out that even good quality QCTs were not all that rigid.! I finished up with a GHT 4 way toolholder. Much more accurate than any QCT I have used and cheaper to boot.

Newcomers seem to have the idea that QCTs are "fashionable" and desirable. It isn't necessarily so!

Andrew.

Do yourself a favour and get 8 mm tooling, for all the above reasons. As far as QCTs are concerned , hold fire. I tooled up my ML7 and ML10 with the type that "old" Myford supplied. The subbie that made them for Myford, occasionally does runs of them. Excellent quality and not quite outrageously priced.

Years later, when I wanted to do some precise, repeatable work, I had problems. Turns out that even good quality QCTs were not all that rigid.! I finished up with a GHT 4 way toolholder. Much more accurate than any QCT I have used and cheaper to boot.

Newcomers seem to have the idea that QCTs are "fashionable" and desirable. It isn't necessarily so!

Andrew.

I agree with Gordon, I too have had an RS supplied drill vice for many years and it is first class. I also have one of the cheap Chinese offerings, similar to the RDG vice. It wasn't too smart to begin with, but responded very well to the usual fettling.

The choice as always, is up to the OP.

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 10/05/2020 10:04:10

Hello Larry,

The Picador version is far from useless, it is usually operator error that gives them a bad reputation. Clive's analysis is (as usual) spot on.

Andrew,

P.S. My Picador works very well on larger drills, after much head scratching, There are better methods for smaller drills..

If you want a good QCTP and lots of holders then you will be paying out a lot of cash. The cheap ones are really not a lot of use in the rigidity stakes. So if you have a couple of hundred to spare, go ahead.In my view it is self defeating to have only 3 or 4 holders

I did the same as you are intending but I purchased from the guy who used to make QCTPs for the original Myford factory. They are excellent, but if you want a really rigid style of toolholder, then I recommend the four way tool holder that G H Thomas designed. Absolutely rock solid and highly repeatable.

If you are only going to use carbide, then shim the holder once and stick the shim to the bottom of the holder. I have both systems and I know which I prefer.

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 29/04/2020 17:40:18

Thanks Thor

I must learn to do links! Something that I always intend but never get around to.

Andrew.

I can confirm that the paper concertina and plaster of Paris method of repair works very well indeed. I am afraid that I have forgotten the source of the new capsule, but one of the above replies gives a starting point.

The main problem was getting the end cap off without damaging it, putting it back on was almost as bad! It was a force fit on my example..

Andrew.

All of the generic 920 lathes have a screw cutting gear box. I can't get at one to check the other gears, but there are surprisingly few.

Join the 920 group at groups IO. Well worth it for the info, There are various write ups on the net about upgrading the 9x20 lathes. They are a bit rough, but can be improved to a reasonable lathe if you work at it.

Andrew.

Thanks Neil,

That was what I tried to use, without any joy. It certainly isn't any use trying the phone number given in the advert. The poor lady on the end of the phone wanted a "code number" and hadn't heard of the 3 for 1 offer. A bit surprised at the 404 error message when I pressed the subscribe now button.

I have tried again and things seem to work this time.

Andrew.