Member postings for Andrew Tinsley

Thanks Pete,

Just what I needed.

Andrew.

Has anyone got contact details for H R Lamb? Can't seem to find anything apart from a Facebook contact, which I don't do.

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 02/10/2022 11:43:19

Has anyone got contact details for H R Lamb? Can't seem to find anything apart from a Facebook contact, which I!

don't do.

Andrew.

My experience is the same as Hopper's I use a sharp reamer and looking at the surface with a x 10 eyeglass shows no sign of the alleged "smearing".

I have done this on several UK made single and three phase motors. I did the first one 15 years ago and it is still going strong, with no hint of "shake" from the shaft.

I suspect it is one of the old wives tales, similar to the "Tool MUST be on dead centre when turning a taper", G H Thomas nailed this fable and showed that errors caused by not being on dead centre were totally insignificant.

Andrew.

The Machine Mart motors that I have seen in use have been noisy. I would pay a little more and get a quieter motor and I suspect a better quality motor to boot.

I am not getting into the classic "quality" arguments often voiced on the forum!

Andrew.

Hi Sam,

You are correct. Arc used to sell them, not sure if they still do.

Andrew.

I doubt very much if the quoted accuracy is correct. A good modern full bore rifle would be unable to match those sorts of figures, let alone a crude mid 19th centuary rifle.

Andrew.

N.B. I am referring to the types of full bore rifle available to shooters in this country. I have no idea what state of the art military rifles are like. Full bore supersonic ammunition is very susceptible to cross winds, which makes it all academic.

Hello Richard,

I too have used thin cyanoacrylate to repair ceramics in the past. Some are still in one piece, but others have failed, washing in hot water seems to destroy the bond overtime.

This is why I did a search for how the professional restorers do repairs to ceramics. They all recommend various two part epoxies for a permanent job, they mostly agree that cyano is more of a temporary repair. My experiences seems to confirm that.

Regards,

Andrew.

Hello Richard,

I too have used thin cyanoacrylate to repair ceramics in the past. Some are still in one piece, but others have failed, washing in hot water seems to destroy the bond overtime.

This is why I did a search for how the professional restorers do repairs to ceramics. They all recommend various two part epoxies for a permanent job, they mostly agree that cyano is more of a temporary repair. My experiences seems to confirm that.

Regards,

Andrew.

Thanks gentlemen! I do have meths, acetone and IPA to hand so I shall see which is best! I should have tried these solvents before I posted, but I hate unhardened epoxy (I seem to get it everywhere!) So I was put off experimenting.

Thanks again,

Andrew.

Thanks gentlemen! I do have meths, acetone and IPA to hand so I shall see which is best! I should have tried these solvents before I posted, but I hate unhardened epoxy (I seem to get it everywhere!) So I was put off experimenting.

Thanks again,

Andrew.

I mean a solvent that will dissolve STILL RUNNY epoxy, as I doubt there are any for set epoxy!

I need to repair several broken china items. The professionals recommend epoxy adhesives over cyanoacrylate types. I have now obtained some of the recommended specific adhesives, all of which are the slow setting variety. When assembling the broken pieces, I shall definitely find that some epoxy will squeeze out of the joints. I have yet to find any solvent that will remove this. so any help would be much appreciated.

I find that the drawback to model engineering is that family seem to think you can fix anything. I get lumbered with some very difficult repairs. I should really practice the art of telling people NO WAY! But I guess I am too soft!

Andrew.

Maybe a riveting jig.

Andrew.

It isn't a wiper motor! It is a window winder motor, designed to run in BOTH directions.

Andrew.

This always happens on my set up. The parting tool is correctly positioned.I never have a pip after parting off, but you need to use more force to cut the pip off. I always put this down to the almost zero cutting speed on the last bit of the cut.

Andrew.

I have replaced the vial in a 250 mm, Rabone Chesterman engineers level The end plugs are an over tight fit and breaking the new vial is a distinct possibility when replacing them. I simply took a skim off them in the lathe until they were a loose push fit. I then used superglue to fix them in place.

I was bothered about the vial "pip" and getting Plaster of Paris on it. I happened to have a small plastic cap, which I loctited over the pip and then the plaster could not get on the pip. Hope this helps anyone who is contemplating a similar repair. The vial came from Level Developments, a very helpful bunch

Andrew..

There certainly is a "for sale" section! Run down the right hand side of the forum pages and you will come to it.

Andrew.

My QCTP set up can take very big cuts if need be. However the set up is not as rigid as the 4 way. Taking deep cuts with both set ups, shows this quite clearly.

Andrew.

I have more or less said the same things as Dave on several occasions, but beginners seem to ignore such advice.

When I was a beginner I purchased a very expensive QCTP including a goodly number of holders. BIG MISTAKE! The cash would have been much better spent on a dozen or more items that I really needed!!

I do use the QCTP and although it is a very well designed item, it is NOT as rigid as a 4 way toolpost. Get yourself a good (much cheaper) 4 way tool post and don't make the same mistake as me!

Andrew.

P.S. It seems as if QCTPs are a fashion item for beginners!

Sandwich the brass between some steel or wood and drill through the sandwich. Works for me.