O K - dont come back - have found the 4 at top

Hi M G - OK for time ? where does Channel 4 come in - ? have you read your post

Yes Neil - 2.5 times weight of Ground in BMSteel - I think that is fair MikeB

Hi Stuart - Yes I have found out that there are diferent grades (the hard way) by trial and error - and taking the edge off quite a few tools.
A local precision engineering works helped in the end by taking the ground stock from me and replacing with easy machine bright steel. - The works use it in producing pecision dies for injection moulding, but they have very specialist lathes/mills

Thanks for all coments - will stick to easy machine in future

Porting the bantam was very popular in the 60/70's - Both the inlet and transfer ports had to be enlarged and polished - one of the main problems was that the ports were enlarged in the piston bore in a vertical (up and down) situation - this altered the timing and usually resulted in power loss.

It was always better to open the ports around the the bore so as not to alter the timing - !! unless you have design knowledge of 2 stroke timing ??

Also if the fuel induction and transfer is altered the consideration should be made to the exaust system - as it is not practical to alter the exaust port/flange then it was normal to fit a performance designed exaust pipe and box - this for some reason had a restricted flow cone at the end ??? -It worked

Hi Jimmie - I used to port out, pack cranks and crankcased, of bantam engines for competiyion work (Road racing and Grass track). I found the best way was with small grinding stones and burrs on a high speed flexable shaft driven of the end of the bench grinder.

An alternative to porting out was to seal off the induction ports and make up a crankcase fitting with a reed valve (A lot of the modern 2 strokes have induction reeds and can usually be picked up from bike brokers.

If you want to go the whole hog in tuning then look arround for a George Todd head - They can still be found on the web.

Hope this helps

Sorry seems I got the wrong link - try this Here we go - parting off

Hi - Try this link -Beginners questions -

Will have to read from the first posting in future

Regards to all

Hi - I seem to be getting confused - I read my forum in the first posting first and the last posting last -

This is done by seting it that way in the "set up"

More like Industrial Clash of Interest - "I do that and dont want you to do it"

Hi - Have trolled thro web - came up with this which is similar to my way - might add that my knives were for sea fishing **LINK**

Hi T G - Yes Mineral Oil as in Natural Engine Oil - Not Synthetic

From what I understood as the steel passes through the oil it takes up some carbon and forms a slight case hardening - Also the Stainless I used did have a slight magnetic attraction.

Give it a try - Hope it works

MikeB

Hi have never found the need to harden such small tips, but have hardened stainless steel knives - Heat to cherry red and then Quench in a tank of water with a good layer of Mineral Oil floating in the top - Has worked well without re-temering.

Hi Will R - I think they still do the 1600 grit - I use this mixed to a thickish paste with veg oil (Usually Linseed) and find that it is a good polishing compound for all metals

This is a good supply of polishing/grinding media - Its used in lapidary (polishing stones) http://www.ukge.co.uk/uk/grits.asp

It was always known as a "Bastard" file - that was the type of cut not swearing at it

Hi M G - ? Is DraftSight any good for Architectural Drawings

All is not lost as the OLD PC is still in use - Still have to use it for TurboCad - MAC version is like running up the down esculator - That is unless any Mac user out there can enlighten me.???

OK _ I remember in the Bad !!! old days when a hard part of the casting had to be worked on with a FILE - ? can they stil be used