Member postings for Dave Owen

Hi

any help on battery size for my dan jeavons 08 shunter, i am at the stage where i need 2 x 12 volt batterys but as i have not bought the fibreglass bodyshell i am not sure on size. SAD castings were of little help so any suggestions please.

thanks in advance

D

hi bob

that looks the business, will order asap, Pete overtightening the tool post is a problem, i have just made a shim and it made little difference, maybe too thin.|

Hi Chris

many thanks for the info, any idea where to get a tap that size? i have checked online and there are some from the USA but very silly money,some one suggested a 3/8 x 10 tpi is very close. Any thoughts.

It also seems a good idea to shim the toolpost, when it is tight it more or less locks the whole topslide.

thanks again

Dave

ps i can get a 10x 2 trapezoidal tap in this country, do you think that may work?

Hi Guys

thanks for the replies, it looks like a common fault on this lathe. John i will re count the threads in the morning and re post, The thread are nearly gone it started with a lot of play and quickly ended up as stripped. i think part of the problem is over tightening the 4 way tool post, it seems to put extra pressure on the top slide. 12.7 TPI or there abouts would make more sense as there are 10 tPI taps available.

Chris, i plan to make at least 2 replacements as they will wear, at my local engineering club today (pembrokeshire model engineers) google it for web site. It was suggested to drill out the hole in the top slide to make a larger dia to allow a larger bush, something to think about.

thanks again

Dave

p.s. if you do look at our web site my engine is the winson 1400 tank

hi

hope some one can help, i have a mashtroy (warco) 220 lathe and the brass bush on the topslide has worn out, it looks like a acme type thread and is 10mm or 3/8 dia and the tpi is 18. Does any one know of a tap that is suitable to make a new bush or maybe someone knows of a replacement. Warco has been no help and i have emailed the original company who were helpfull but so far can not identify my lathe.

Also any suggestion as to why this should wear out so quickly, my lathe is 15 years old but has had very little use, i know the bush is quite small but is this a common problem. any help greatly appreciated.

thanks

Dave

Edited By Dave Owen on 07/01/2015 17:38:23

Hi Guys

many thanks for all the replies, this truly is a very helpfull and friendly forum, i think i am going to quarter in the lathe. IanT a scan of the article would also be very interesting. Many many thanks again to all

Regards

D

Hi does any body know the best way to quarter the cranks on a 5 inch gauge jeavons 08 shunter, the cranks are outside the frames and it is only the cranks that need to be quartered and not the wheels as they are inside the frames. many thanks in advance

D

woooohooooooooooo

thank you so much guys for your help i am deeply impressed with your electrical skills, i now have a fully working lathe, now to start machining the wheels for my 5 inch gauge 08 class shunter .

thanks again

D

woooohooooooooooo

thank you so much guys for your help i am deeply impressed with your electrical skills, i now have a fully working lathe, now to start machining the wheels for my 5 inch gauge 08 class shunter .

thanks again

D

Hi peter and les

Les i have done continuity checks as you suggested and everything tallys with your notes,I have connected the motor as stated but it does not run, in forward and reverse it hums but no turning, turning by hand does not start it either.

Peter

i am going to check your suggestions but forgive me for a stupid question is the DOL switch you mention the large power on/off switch box at the far right hand side of the lathe.

Gentlemen many thanks again for your help

D

Hi

with multimeter set on 200ohms i get the following readings, i have disconnected both caps for this.

Z2 to Z1 8.7 ohms

U2 to U1 6.5 ohms

V2 to V1 1 ohm

no other connection make a circuit

the centrifugal switch is on V1 and V2

according to the supplier :-

remove 2 bars/links

live is to terminal 2 on reverse switch and neutral is terminal 6

from the reversing switch 1 to U1 live in both directions

5 to U2 neutral in both directions

9 to V1 alternates live to neutral between positions

13 to Z2 alternates neutral to live between positions

on my reverse switch there are 12 contacts so really dont know where they get 13 from.

the motor is currently of the lathe and i have easy access to all parts, hope this helps.

i shall hopefully reassemble this evening

D

when the motor was supplied it had links between U1 and V 1 and a second on Z2 and U2 this was for clockwise direction. for anticlockwise the links are ment to be on Z2 andU1 and the second on U2and V!

Hi Guys

thanks in advance for your help. here is a drawing of my motor connections, i have a feeling that the centrifugal switch is on pins Z2 and V2 but will check this afternoon and confirm later. I do have a digital multimeter so can check certain things if need be. i can easily remove the rear cover to access the centrifugal switch. With regard to the reversing switch this intact and untouched,( easy access to this) the original motor was stolen whilst stripped down and in storage some years ago.

regards and thanks again

D

Hi Les

links were fitted but have been removed, i fear i may have to pay someone to sort it out.

many thanks

D

Hi Peter

many thanks for the offer of a wiring diagram, but i have the one supplied from warco i am being a little dim and cant seem to transfer the diagram to my lathe.

Dave

many thanks for your help, my lathe has 5 wires plus the earth, i have found Live and neutral but really cant see where the other 3 go, the connection block has 6 connections it is clear to see where + and _ go and also i can identify both run and start capacitor connections.

does any one have a clear photo showing cable identifications of the connection box please

many thanks

D

Hi

hope someone can help, i have replaced the motor on my warco(mastroy) 220 and cant get it to run.

it is a 1 phase cap start cap run of the correct hp and size, but just hums in forward or reverse, if i turn it by hand it turns slowly for 1/2 a turn or so and stops, i am guessing i have wired something up wrong. does any one have a pic or drawing of the connectors, all my wires have cable markers on them V1 etc and i have wired them to the corresponding terminals,U1 to U 1, V1 to v1, u2 to u2 v2 to v2 and what looks like W1 to Z1. I do not have a wire for Z2 though and it goes in side the casing, any ideas greatly appreciatedthanks

D

Hi

i am building a ground level 5 inch gauge railway in my garden, i would like to use a rail bender as supplied by ride on railways and others but they are £99. Does any know of plans or used rail benders for ali track up to 21mm.

Thanks

Dave

interesting, not really thought about resistors, i assumed an electronic version would be more efficient and reliable. i can see a heavy duty resistor would be more reliable, what about acceleration? would there be a jump or surge as i go faster? switching between resistor value`s.

If i was running at low speeds would i be wasting a lot of battery power?

my limited use of resitor boards was many years ago with model boats and they were a bit brutal with very little control at low speed.

cheers

Dave

than ks for the replies, much appriciated

Hi

my next project hopefully will be a large 5" gauge diesel, powered by12/24 volt batterys. I notice most people use a ready made speed controlers but they are very expensive, i`ve seen speed controllers for golf buggys or electric wheelchairs on ebay and they seem to fit the criteria volts /amps and they are very cheap. Does any one have experience of theses controllers?

regards

Dave

thanks guys