Member postings for ronan walsh

Thanks for the replies. The top end of the head was making noise when i was running the machine. I hate noisy machinery. But know for certain the rest of the bearings in the head are fine. The plastic bushes in the pulley's, which are the usual source of noise on vari heads, are perfect, so the motor is the main suspect as far as i can tell. As bearings have a hard life and are relatively cheap to replace, i will replace them.

But knowing to go for cn or c3 is what i was wondering. There are also specific bearings designed for electric motors, so that is another option.

Does anyone know what the correct clearance is for the bearings in the motor of the bridgeport 2j head. I know the size, but as the bearings do not seem to be original, i just want to check the clearance.

As an addendum to this thread, i found what i wanted on the site below. The tap and die company in Wood Green London. Has anyone dealt with this company ? Ok to deal with ?

http://www.tapdie.com/html/slitting_saws-_slitting_saws_inch-_slitting_saws_metric.html

Thanks Phil,

Yes i reckon they are what i have alright.

I found a small collet chuck in a box of bits someone gave me years ago. Initially i thought it was just a crude bit of bar with the usual cutter held in by an allen screw, but it is not.

Opening the chuck, it has a collet and all i can see on it is either B.E or B.F. Never came across this size before, but if i can get a set of collets reasonably priced, i would buy them.

Anyone know them ? What have i got ?

It is to mill a semi-circular slot into a block of steel about 8mm square. There is a piece that fits through the slot and when the 8mm piece lifts up and down, the cross piece, which is mounted on a pin, is used on the opposite end to lift something else, like a miniature see-saw. This is for a job for a college students project, i am not fully aware of what it does, and i would rather buy a cheap slitting saw than waste more time making yet another piece. Thanks all.

Thanks for taking the time and trouble to do that John, but the OD needs to be 1.25", the thickness is not so critical, around the 2-3 mm mark, but the diameter is. Thanks again.

Arbour size is not really important, as i can make up a simple one, its for a one off job.

Yes 1 1/4" is the diameter of the blade itself, not the arbour hole. I will look at the dremel blades.

I am looking for a small slitting saw, 1 1/4" x .082", anyone know where i might buy one ? I have looked on ebay etc, but this size is smaller than any i can find.

Most of the chucks i have seen don't grip drills under about 3mm. I also like collets, they grip better and do not mark up the shank of the drill bit .

Yes thats the sort of thing IanT.

Thanks all. Its for a mill, r8 taper, but a collet chuck that fits into a r8 collet would be fine, its just for drilling the occasional small hole. I would rather buy in the Uk or europe, its just quicker.

Can anyone recommend an er11 collet chuck and collets that does not cost a huge amount ? It would be something i would rarely use, so do not want to spend too much.

It would be a lucas k2f mag on a triumph twin.

Whatever about China, anything from India is truely junk. I have made the mistake of buying some spares for my old triumph and bsa, that turned out to be from India. They were worse than the original worn out parts.

Yes i hear vertex do make a good product, even though they are Taiwanese i believe. If you have a look at Stefan Gotteswinters channel on youtube, he pulls one of their rotary tables to bits and tests it, and improves its slightly, but i think he said it was not a bad product to start with.

This old tony did something similar with a vertex milling vice and again he found it was not bad, especially for the money.

With a non-name product, you really are asking for trouble, and while some of the old western made tools are great quality, most are worn by now unless you are really lucky to find one that has not been used much.

Hello and welcome from a fellow fitter.

As far i as i am aware, it was yes. All we did was remove an old machine and clear the area generally. The agents who sold us the machine did the installation, and took two days to do it if i remember correctly.

The problem with swapping out the motor for a single phase one, is a three phase motor is generally smoother than a single phase one, and also i believe the motors on surface grinders are very finely balanced, for as you know any little thing can affect the surface finish. There is a large motor refurbishment company not too far from me, if the motor turns out to be 440v only, i will send it to them and get them to find the star point, and then run on a VFD as normal.