Member postings for sparky mike

The machine is now stripped down except for two parts, the pinion for the rack has a taper pin that refuses to move for the time being, and the rod that holds the collars for setting the travel , will not budge and as both are mounted in the casting I have to take care with both points if I need to remove them.

All the castings have a part number cast in then. Would it be of use to make a list of

all parts for future reference ?

All the castings seem to ring ok with no signs of any cracks.

The base pedestal is a two man lift , as is the middle plate, so not easy to move round the workshop. The base is now primed with a rust inhibitor paint and I will spray it first with a spray two pack filler, that sands easily and makes for a good undercoat for the top gloss.

Original paint seems to be a grey with a blue tint. Looks to be similar shade to Myford's.

I found traces of the paint under the name plate and warning plate. That plate informs owner to only grease bearings with motor running. ?

Due to heavy construction I had wondered if the machine, with suitable chuck, could be used for light milling as well as the grinding it was intended for.

Mike.

Original 3 phase motor was around 2500 RPM, but luckily I have a single phase, same RPM, motor on the shelf ready to bolt on, that a friend gave me last year..

Some of the paint looks like battleship grey, but don't know if that is original.

I find that car engine paint comes up with a nice gloss but takes around three days to dry.

Mike.

One thing that mystifies me, is what does the "Test" figure represent on the machine lable in photo above ?

Mike.

So far,all the nuts and bolts, bar one, have undone ok. Looks mainly like surface rust on the beds so am hoping to do a fast restore on this one. Could well be of use, as I often have to reduce thickness of hardened washers.

The paint is just flaking off, so that will save a considerable time. Being Wadkin make, I wonder if they included this machine in their range of woodworking machines, so that it could have been used for planer blade sharpening ?

I now have the machine home. Very heavy to lift so we stripped it down into manageable smaller lumps !!

Photos enclosed. Any more info on this machine/model would be very useful.

Mike.

It looks to be smaller version than this one. Or the one shown below has larger control handles/wheels.

I have been offered a small Wadkin surface grinder for around £100.00

I don't know the model but I should soon have photos.

It probably weighs around three or four cwt. and looks pretty sturdy but will need complete overhaul and change of motor to single phase.

Has anyone here had any experience of this make of machine ?

Mike.

Thanks for all input,

I most certainly don't want to damage it ,but will restore it like many of the other workshop tools that I have rebuilt due to previous vandals misguided efforts.

I was just curious to effects of welding current on the magnets.

Mike.

I have just acquired an Eclipse magnetic oblong chuck/surface plate.

Can this also be used for positioning items during arc welding, or will the welding process weaken, or destroy the magnets.

Anyone know of a link to original info pages sent out with these when new?

Model no. is AX 105 (10" X 5" size.)

Mike.

Hi I need to thread a 1/4" diameter steel rod with 1/4" UNF die.

What diameter can I turn the o.d of the rod to help the die cut the thread.?

Mike.

With the help from a friend in Holland, I now know that it was made by Gerver Imetex in the early 1970's

but they do not have any information on it unfortunately.

My only hope is to get a message posted on Dutch engineering forums for more info.

I need to know the mechanical action for the rear roller. This can be raised around 20mm at each end with a screw in handle , but there does not seem to be any way of keeping it in that position once the handle is released.

The purpose of this must be to do with rolling cone shaped items.

Mike.

Further photo, a bit cleaner now !!

Name on the front could be GORVER or GERVER or GARVER or even GURVER if that is a clue?

Mike.

I just noticed a small, half missing, label on the end of the base and the word TEX and Holland is just readable.

Mike.

Hi, Just purchased this slip roll tool and would like to know the make.

There was a name on the front, but mostly gone now.

It is pretty heavy and has cast iron base unlike most modern rolls about same size ( 600mm.) (2ft.rolling capacity.

At least I have a choice. I can either bolt it to the drop-down shelf or buy a dedicated table for the router.

While investigating the above mod, I also had to change the nylon gear/rack that operates with the blade tilt mechanism. If the tilt wheel is not engaged fully, it tends to rip off the edges of the rack teeth, until all the teeth are gone.

I ordered a new part for around £20.00 all in, but trying to fit the blighter is a joke, as the machine is virtually built around the rack. In the end I found that only way to remove the rack was to remove one of the pivot bolts that supports the motor/blade assembly, which allowed it to drop enough to do the job.

At the same time I found that the blade is not exactly square to the table ,so have now corrected that . The underside of the table had been roughly ground away in the main spindle area to allow the blade assembly to sit square, but it needed a touch more fetteling.

I wondered if this had been done by Scheppach or by the UK supplier. Either way I was not too impressed.

Mike.

Well made an in depth study of the bench and now a complete rethink !!

On the right side of the blade there is a fold down section of the table which will be ideal for mounting the router as

it is open on three sides underneath, so depth adjustment will be fine.

In an ideal world, if I could buy a dedicated router for this, then I would look for one with an allen type of adjustment that could then be operated through an accees hole in the folding table.

Sometimes you can't see the wood for the trees !!

Mike.

Yes,

Intention was to fit the router with shaft in vertical plane. The main reason for my wanting to do the mod,, was that I often need to do fine cuts on the edge of panels and the existing fences would have been a plus. In addiiion the mod would have saved valuable space. The saw table is a TS 2010 (off the top of my head) and there is quite a bit of room underneath the top plate of the machine, which has the alloy removable type panels that comprise the top plate.

I can easily purchase a spare blade insert, which is around 5.00" wide and around 24.00* long and has a flat underside.

I will take a photo or two showing layout.

Mike.

I have a semi-professional Scheppach table saw with sliding fences and I would like to convert the table so that a medium sized router can be slung under the table and then the machine could be used as a spindle moulder. This would entail removing the saw surround plate, removing the blade and then replacing with a new plate which would then have the router permanently fixed to it.

I would need to devise some means of raising or lowering the router by means of an allen key adjustment from above the plate, as there is no side access at present. The moulder modification would need to be done so that I can revert to normal saw bench use when required.

Any thoughts on this would be welcome.

Mike.

Thanks Brian,

problem was I got the lathe and gearbox in bits, so I had to asemble it all, which was not too easy.

The gearbox had many missing parts, so that turned out quite pricey!!

Mike.