Member postings for sparky mike

I am looking for some lengths of alloy channel approx 3/8" deep X 1/4" wide in 18 gauge or thinner. Channel has to have a rounded bottom, with square sides.

Mike.

Hi Hopper, the bike is a 1929 101 Scout. Had it three years and nearly got it back in one piece. It will be nice to hear it running.!! Pretty scarce in UK, can't be more than half a dozen over here. The sidecar is a mixture of Harley and Indian and I had to modify the sidecar frame to fit the Indian location points. Not easy.

Mike.

Thanks for advice Hopper,

all done now, as per your photos and pin is a nice sliding push fit.

Mike.

Good idea Hopper !! The bike is an Indian, so very similar design. I will steam out to the workshop and hopefully progress now !!

Mike.

To do it in the mill is fine if you have an engine that is easy to strip down and easy to get out of the frame. I am changing the pistons in an engine that has been re-built, so this has to be done in situ.

Mike.

The reamer will not produce a good enough finish and chance of getting it off square to the cylinder barrel.

Mike.

I need to hone two new small end bushes that I have just made and fitted to the con rods of my 1920's motor cycle. Bushes are phosphor bronze and have an oil grove straight across the bore. They were reamed in the lathe to size (3/4" and then pushed in with the normal bolt and tube method. OK, so far so good, but the expected reduction in bore size has happened and I now need to remove approx 0.003". An expanding reamer might work but as the con rods are still in the engine, it may well end up with a slightly out of line bore. I am now thinking on the lines of making a hone for my electric drill. Simplest one would be a piece of round brass a fraction under size with a slot cut in it to take fine emery paper. Anyone got a better idea ? I do have a set of hones that are used for brake cylinder reconditioning, but they do not remove that much metal.

Mike.

Got a good result from WD 40 co., they sent a couple of new aerosols and two days later, another courier dropped three more off !! So it does pay to have a moan now and then.

Mike.

Yes mine is the same as one in last photo. The photo I posted was one I grabbed on the net as have not had time to post my actual one.

Yes, mid stretch of diaphragm sounds right.. All is in remarkable condition except for paint flaking off both pump and motor, but that will soon be rectified.

I will not be using it for spray guns except my air brush and for tyre inflation.. I had the smaller version of one of these in the 60's and it was fine for spraying my Lambretta, and yes the gun, as supplied with the kit ,I believe had "max 30 or 50 psi"

on the pot. Very reliable and never let me down but graduated to a big beast with huge tank for bigger projects.

Mike.

The big question is this.

When I replace the cylinder head, do I turn crankshaft so that diaphragm is tightened when crankshaft is at TDC or is it tightened with diaphragm under tension at BDC,, or half way between. ?

Mike.

I have just bought for a small sum, an old Burgess Sprayit compressor.

It is the type with separate motor,with pump turned by a V belt. On checking it out, I find there is no oil in crankcase, but believe this is an oil-less compressor, so assume all is ok. I assume bearing are lubricated for life. If anyone has the instructions for one of these I could do with a scan please.

Mike.

Another point raised in the reviews about the same product on their website, was that the propellant ran out long before the liquid, so that half a tin was wasted. Be interesting to see if they eventually revert to the old type nozzle.

Mike.

To clear up an earlier post I was referring to an aerosol type can.

I contacted the manufacturer and to give them a bit of credit,they contacted me by email and they then sent a courier to pick up the offending can and nozzle and told me they will send another can. I did email back and said "Please can you send can with the simple press action", so we live in hope. I will probably revert to a simple kitchen spray and use diesel fuel, which has worked well for me in the past.

Mike.

Anyone had problem with a certain well known make penetrating oil can newfangled spout ?

I used this previously very popular make new tin three times and the spout broke on it cheap plastic hinge. I am now left with a nearly full can.!!!! I hasten to add that I am not heavy handed by any means.

Why people have to re-design things and then get it hopelessly wrong is beyond me. I see from the certain make's website reviews, that I am not the only complainant.

Mike.

I need any information on an AA metal folder i.e. sales leaflets or instructions.

Mike.

Edited By sparky mike on 18/11/2018 08:17:21

Yes it is built like the proverbial brick outhouse !! My engine crane certainly grunted a bit when lifting off my mate's pickup truck !!

Bill. If you look in my photo albums there is a photo of the name plate/serial number etc. Can you decipher the date from that ?

(photo album, titled FJ Edwards folder.)

I used to catch a Grey Green coach in Kings Cross area in London in the 60's and remember Edwards had a smart showroom there. Machines were hopelessly out of my price range in those days. I could hardly afford a bench vice.

Screws now out. I used a combination of the air tool and impact driver.

Mike.

Just bought an Edwards folder for the workshop. I would be interested to know the approx. date of this machine and if anyone has the user manual for the same one or similar type. A fair bit of derusting will be needed, but it is a well built machine and should see me out !!

At the moment I am having problems removing the c/sunk slot head screws from the front angle but am contemplating removing them with my air nut runner with a screwdriver bit, on low power. A hand impact driver so far has only removed one and I have eight or so to go.

It is missing three half inch BSW slotted round head screws that hold the side casing to the rear, but may have problem finding new ones. They have very large diameter head with a shallow convex.

I will post photos later.

Mike.

Hi Martin,

when you say older, any idea of date when they used this test number.

I have been searching the net ,but so far have been unlucky in finding any information on it.

A photo or drawing would be handy for ref. For example, the wheel guard has been "got at" by previous owners and it would be nice to get it looking how it was when new. I have a feeling it is from 1948 era.

The grinders supplied by Wadkin in later years were used to re-grind blades as used on their woodworking machines, and these were known as cutter grinders. This makes me think that my machine was used for same purpose.

Mike.