Member postings for sparky mike

I suppose you could say if compressor was at 80psi, if the piston was the same area as one square inch, taking into account the piston rod, then you would get a force of 80 lbs on end of the ram, or would pressure split between foot of ram and head ? I was getting a rough idea of what is needed and then probably try one of the Chinese rams on that auction site. One with 500mm stroke is only £20.00, so in the event of failure then not too much to waste. Those with the four external tie rods look to be a stronger proposition, than those where the ends are just screwed into the alloy sleeve.

Mike.

How about if a small bleed hole was drilled in the cylinder wall, just past the point where you want it to stop ?

Some kind of lever operated valve would also be required to turn on on off the air supply. I don't need return air supply as the beam springs will do that job, but I would think that yo would need to vacate the air from the cylinder after the stroke or it would then become a vacuum ?

Mike.

I have a treadle operated guillotine which I want to convert to air ram cylinder working. I have compressed air on tap and intend using two air rams, one each end of the machine, to work on the treadle arms.

I have located a ram 20mm bore and 500mm stroke , but not sure if two of these would be ok.

Not sure how to calculate the poundage each ram would develop at say 80psi.

The force needed is just over the weigh of a normal human being. Say 12 stone. I would be interested to hear from anyone else who has done similar conversion.

Mike.

Just looking for a 1" reamer that will fit my pedestal drill or my Boxford tail post.

If all fails, I can visit my friend who had a Bridgeport mill.

Mike.

Is it possible to buy a i inch reamer with a no.2 morse taper ? All those I have seen so far on line are no. 3 morse tapers.

Mike.

Hi John,

A solid round piece of bar , counter bored to the depth of the bush overhang and a good fit on the o/d of the bush, in conjunction with my jig on the other end should work well. Hope for a warmish day in the workshop tomorrow !!

Mike.

I made the simple jig, but instead of two welded legs to the bridge, I tapped the top plate and now have two 3/8" unf long threaded bolts in. I had thought about having each end of the bushes with turned spigots, but plate holes were in before I got to thinking on a bit.

Mike.

Photo

It has to very accurate so think this is the way I am going.

Thanks for replies anyway.

Mike.

I have to weld two 1" diameter steel bushes into two holes in a steel 3mm plate. How can I jig these up to be spot on square to the plate? They are not flush with the plate but protrude around 3/8" on the back side.

Mike.

The rods are 2.5 I normally keep rods in airing cupboard . I did do a bit of experimenting and after I had managed to lay down a base layer, I tried a normal steel rod, as I at first wondered if the welder/leads were playing up, and found that the normal rod layed down much better.

Now I am wondering if the particular cast iron is different to the good old UK stuff as the machine is Chinese. Maybe more steel content.

If so, perhaps it takes normal rods ok ?

I had thought about metalock principal but where can you get the figure of eight wedges from ? If I could get some I would go that route.

Mike.

I am repairing a small crack in a cast iron end plate of a guillotine.

I bought some cast iron electrode rods (supercast) ,veed out the crack but rods did not want to strike, no matter what current welded was set at and keep sticking. Any advise here welcome. The length of the crack is only around 1".

Mike.

Went into Konecranes but you have to register and then they email back asking all questions about your company etc.Too much hassle, so I just stripped the hoist to the bare frame and its now all painted up like new now.

The actual chain hook swivels with no obvious means of checking the bearings, but there is a small grub screw on the side that is tack welded in place. I assume that this is where the ball bearings are fed in to a groove in the hook base. There is no play there, so I will leave well alone and just pump some grease in.

Now I need to clean the chains, which have just slight surface rust. (Not deep, but can be removed with a wire brush, more of a brown stain than rust as such.) Any way of removing it by dropping the chains in a bucket of a certain liquid ?

Mike.

I have an old Morris 5CWT hand operated chain hoist that I am renovating and it would help me if anyone has either a parts list for one of these, or instruction sheet that was supplied with them. It is the open square frame type of construction with a single pawl ratchet.

Mike.

Thanks Nick for the blueprint. I will print that off and keep it in the box. I bet a lot of you guys have never seen the instructions!! Re. setting gauges, my best bet would be to get myself a few larger micrometers, up to 6" at least.

I have slip gauges so with both that would be handy.

Why does it take the best part of your life to gather all the tools that you needed many years ago ?

Mike.

I have to measure between a couple of shafts in order to duplicate the housing that they rotate in, but wondered how accurate these extra shafts are.As my largest micrometer is 3" max, not sure how I could check the larger rods for size.I have a height vernier and surface plate, but would not like to guarantee result that way.

I tried to find the manual on Google, but nothing came up. My internal micrometer is same as in photos in latter posts.

Mike.

I recently bought a traditional style 50's 60's Moore and Wright internal micrometer set. I would like to know if the rods adjust individually and how.

No paperwork/instructions came with the set.

Mike.

I will probably have to turn up a couple of rolls, male and female section, for my sheet metal swaging jenny. That may well work if I can pass the strip of alloy through the rollers dead center. Worth a try.

Mike.

It has to be alloy, as it will be fitted round four sides of a rounded corner panel edge.

Mike.