Member postings for FMES

I reckon your dog has excellent taste.

All I get from my cat is Furballs

Edited By Lofty76 on 14/10/2014 14:56:00

If you prefer an actual item being made : **LINK** and look for Matsuura Maxia: V8 Engine Block Machined From Solid

This started off as a solid block of aluminium, sorry the quality is not briliant.

Edited By Lofty76 on 06/10/2014 11:57:19

Coal fires tend to drop embers through the grate and sparks up the chimney.

Gas doesn't have those problems so yes, in effect, safer.

Lofty

Because most of the time they fog up

Edited By Lofty76 on 03/10/2014 21:51:43

I have the drawings for this if useful..

Peter,

If you actually contact e-spares http://www.espares.co.uk/contact/sales they will get back to you very quickly.

Just did the same thing for my Hotpoint washing machine drum bearings.

Unfortunately for me the answer was not what I was looking for - the whole drum assembly has to be replaced as the bearings are moulded into the outer casing

Not good for a machine just over five years old.

As a couple of people have shown an interest in this engine, I've created an album of a build.

All the best

Lofty

Yes I made one at school (my parents still have it) and I'm still making them as presentation pieces today.

Peter, If you want a copy of the drawings I would be happy to oblige.

Edited By Lofty76 on 04/09/2014 18:46:42

A few years ago, the average 2ltr diesel car was pushing out 50-60 bhp and took a fortnight to get up to any decent speed.

Nowadays we are looking at common rail engines of the same displacement pushing out 150-200 bhp, top speeds of around 140mph, and with 0-60mph times quicker than most petrol variants.

These new domestic appliances will have to perform or they won't sell.

I use a V-tuf industrial wet/dry in the workshop, the motor is 1000w with 230 m/bar suction and 53 L/sec airflow, more than adequate for de-swarfing all of the machine tools.

I recently bought a new chest freezer ( the old one died after nearly 30 years service), the new one uses a third of the power of the old one and hardly ever seems to be running, despite that it gave no problem keeping temps down to the proper levels even when subjected to the recent heatwave - the freezer is in the conservatory and temps went up to 130F.

Technology is moving on.

Intrigued as to how you can 'see' what material is used by looking at the plan.

The photo of the engine on the PM website doesn't show the valves per se either.

Just wondering.

Spent a very informative couple of hours with Ketan and 'Family' at Arceurotrade, who took the time to set up a machine for a demonstration for us. We got some excellent advice, a full tour, and a very welcome cup of tea. Very many thanks

I would have thought that some of the Dividing Head stepper drives that some of the guys on here have developed would be most suitable for a power tailstock.

The key to get into my workshop.

While it is great to see the accolades passed to the various companies for their timely posting of various items,it would also be good to know which companies had been used to actually carry out the delivery task.

For instance I posted an ordinary letter via Royal Mail which was delivered the following day about 200 miles away,however, a consignment with Yodel, although received and logged by them on the day of posting was not delived for another five days.

All the best

Apart from various flying control linkages vis Chinook cyclic / collective - two rods in parallel connected at each end by a common pivot to allow the rods to move both together (fore and aft) and independently (one forward, one aft). whilst maintaining synchronisation, were referred to as walking beams by our American cousins at Boeings.

I always considered that the 'Walking beam Engine' was one on which the supporting column was pivotted at its base to allow for the motion of the beam if a watts linkage wasn't used.

Ahh, many thanks for the 'heads up' I had a chat with our calibration people today and they have used the method in checking go-no go thread gauges.

Seems a bit excessive for normal workshop use, what sort of applications would use it?

Wouldn't a proper thread gauge be easier to use, **LINK** most decent tap/die sets seem to come with them.

These work very well Martin **LINK**

Hi Geoff,

For a tip, nine times out of ten a glass or mug placed open end over the loft tank spigot will all but stop any water coming down the pipes.

The pressure of water in the tank will keep it there, just turn on the leaking tap and nip up in the loft to do the mug trick.

Hope this is of use

Are they 5C collets? **LINK**