Member postings for Ian Fowkes

Hi Phil,

Many years ago I built a small boilered slip eccentric "Tich" to a good, but far from exhibition standard and it took about 6 months which I would guess equates to about 750 hours with the time I was putting in. My workshop at that time was not particularly well equipped and better equipment would have undoubtedly reduced that time. On the other hand thanks to a traditional engineering apprenticeship I already possessed most of the necessary skills and so probably took considerably less time than a less experienced builder. Another factor is cost, a small budget would slow down the rate at which new tools and materials could be purchased and lengthen the build time, although that is more likely to be an issue with a larger project. The standard of finish and level of detail would also have a very significant effect on the time required as would individual work methods... some people simply work a lot faster than others.

Hope that Helps.

Ian

It did occur to me that for anyone who's willing to risk beheading the melting down of coins for casting purposes would be a better option. Pre 1992 "copper" coins are actually made of a particularly tough bronze that at todays prices would cost far more that the face value of the coin. Of course as a loyal subject of our queen I would never consider doing it

Isn't drilling a hole through an image of the queens head high treason or something like that.

It was OK this morning but very slow again now (10th May 2012 16:40). Other unrelated sites seem to be working OK.

Ian.

Hi Bob,

thanks for your comment. unfortunately I doubt that storage heater bricks are ideal as they are designed to absorb and hold as much heat as possible meaning that quite a lot of heat would be wasted heating the blocks as well as the boiler up. I think a lightweight refractory material such as vermiculite which has both heat resisting and insulating properties would be more suitable. I've read elsewhere that some model engineers have found ordinary lightweight concrete building blocks to be perfectly satisfactory and given that they're the size of six bricks and about a quid each I'll be trying some.

Ian.

Thanks Julian for your informative reply.

At the weekend I managed to acquire another calor gas bottle and traded an empty propane for a full large one, also purchased a decent used Sievert torch and a quantity of Silverflo 55 so I'm getting organised. I already have the copper sheet for the plates and so made a start on flanging the backhead at the weekend. It was surprisingly easy getting it up to annealing temperature packed in refractory blocks but as you have said the heat throwback is considerable and I did feel something like a fireman on a full size loco.

I am planning to produce the tapered barrel by rolling it round a wooden former of the correct shape, my plan was to use a plain castelated joint but your much appreciated comment on the acceptability of this type of joint means I will need to seek advice before committing myself. I have no objection to using a jointing strip either internally, externally or even both. The biggest problem with the barrel at the moment is buying, or at least paying for the large sheet of copper from which to make it! I do plan to use plain silver soldered stays fitted before the doorplate and backhead go on.

I totally agree that the temperature can be better judged indoors but my confined space means I will have to work outside, at least in the later stages of the job which will mean avoiding sunny days. I can't see that having having much effect on available hours though and it will at least save having to use a patio heater to keep others warm!

Thanks again,

Ian.

Cheers Ian, I know they introduced some restrictions a few tears ago meaning cylinders could only be exchanged within "groups" however the following year my local supplier told me that policy had been abandoned.. I hope that is still the case.

Thanks again for the replies.

Les, The "Boiler Making Hearth" thread is interesting, one post mentions using a barbecue which is exactly what I am using at present, mine is lined with radiants from old gas fires, I will need a larger one for the planned boiler though. I'll also get some thermalite blocks from B&Q as they are said to work well at very low cost.

Julian, it is encouraging to know that your Sievert equipment did the job, I think the cyclone burners may achieve a higher flame temperature than the standard power burners as they are the only ones recommended by Sievert for brazing, although they quote much smaller maximum pipe sizes than a boiler barrel! Unfortunately the 3526 burner is now discontinued, the largest now being the 3525 with a 10kw output. I will be watching ebay for a used one though. I noticed two gas bottles in your photos and did wonder if you were using 2 torches. I don't know what Calor's exchange policy is at the moment but hopefully I can temporarily swap one of both of my 6kg caravan propane bottles for larger ones.

Ian, I do have a copy of Alex Farmers excellent book, acquired at great expense as it's apparently something of a collectors item now. Unfortunately, as you say he uses oxy-acetylene which in these days of H&S and fire safety legislation is very difficult in a domestic environment. For me it's a definite no as quite apart from the cost I simply do not have the space to comply with BOC's risk assessment requirements for storage of acetylene cylinders. I also hate to think what my home insurers would say about it!

Ian

Thanks for the friendly and helpful replies, lots of useful food for thought. I have to say I've haven't yet used any of the Silverflow alloys so I'm perhaps pre-judging them on what I've heard. I have used Argo-braze 56 simply because I was able to get some very cheaply and have fount it rather difficult to use compared to Easyflow, of which I still have a few preciously guarded sticks. To be fair though Argo-braze is a specialist application material not intended for the general purposes I use it for. The suggestion by Durhambuilder of using vermiculite board for heat containment triggered a thought so I tested the heat resistance of some of the missus's gardening vermiculite and found it has potential for piling up around the job like the old books advise with coke, I also like his method of encasing the barrel in a chimney liner.

I would still be interested in knowing what equipment others have used to successfully silver-solder similar boilers before I invest in a torch.

Ian.

I've had mixed experiences with Macc Models, they've always delivered in the end but it sometimes takes a while - 5 weeks in the case of the last order I placed with no response to emails while I was waiting. I continue to use them because I do find their material prices competitive, particullarly with orders large enough to offset the postage cost.. subject to the point raised in the previous post by MAC!

Ian.

Hi, I'm a newbie here making a first post so please be gentle with me!

I am currently building a 5" gauge GWR 78XX to Martin Evans' s "Torquay Manor" design, it was purchased a few years ago as a second-hand set of castings with some machining done, since then I have made steady progress and now have a rolling chassis complete with tender and can put off making a start on the boiler no longer.

Many years ago I built a small 3.5 gauge boiler without any difficulties and am confident about most aspects of copper boilermaking but the concern I have is about the amount of heat required to silver solder a boiler of this size, particularly with modern cadmium free alloys. In the past I have used a small torch with integral disposable butane/propane mix cartridge which with the largest available burner (7kw) and plenty of firebricks always provided enough heat, however it is quite obvious that this won't be nearly enough for the Manor boiler so the question is can anyone who has built a similar size boiler using modern silver solders recommend a suitable propane torch and burner? The Sievert pro models seem popular and a 2942( 32mm dia / 26kw ) burner on a suitable neck tube and handle sounds as though it might be up to the job but has anyone any experience of using this torch for boilermaking in this scale?

Oxy-acetylene would obviously do the job but I don't wish to get involved in the costs and contracts associated with cylinder hire or the H&S issues of storage for a one-off job, particularly as I already use propane as a caravaner .

All advice and comments appreciated.

Ian.