Harrison Mill

I'm thinking of making an offer on this mill. The mill in question has a broken cross-slide screw and the handle is missing.

Does anyone know how to separate the mill from the base so I can fit it in a van upright to get it home?

Here is a link to what it looks like It's the first one on the page. I think there must be bolts inside the base going up into the mill?

Hey Andy Pugh! Are you here?

Thanks

Menessis

Edited By JasonB on 12/03/2014 20:43:29

The body of the mill is connected to the base by four through bolts accessed by removing the rear belt guard and the ventilation grills in the base. However you will also need to remove the two drive belts (easy job) and of course the knee elevating screw. The nut for the elevating screw is fastened with three cap head bolts easily accessed, but once you remove it there is nothing to stop the whole knee and cross slide assembly from sliding off the bottom of the column when you lift the body from the base. There are some knee locking bolts but I would not rely on these holding since they are only designed to take out the "play" whilst machining. One other thing to be aware of is that these mills are inherently top heavy and if you are moving them by road they need to be very securely roped to stop them falling over. The machine weighs aprox 500 Kg with most of this in the main body and very little in the base, so little will be gained from a weight point of view from splitting the machine although you can reduce the height required which is obviously your question. If I were to move one of these I would leave it in one piece, secure it to a large pallet with ratchet straps and stick it on a pallet carrier with tail lift, it costs a little more but saves a lot of hassle.

Hey thanks for the info Max.

Now to decide if I want it or not. And if so at what price.

Need a source for parts?

Can't find the model number either. Anyone know where it should be? Or for that matter what that model is?

Thanks

Menessis

G&M Tools hold Harrison Milling Machine spares.

Jo

G & M Tools is on Ebay also. They have the cross-slide screw. But I need a handle and a scale to go with it.

Menessis

Has anyone here dealt with G & M Tools? I sent them an email through ebay and havne't got a reply after a few days.

Just wondering what the deal is.

Menessis

Yes, Digger and Tim are fair and reasonable: They don't tart up the equipment they sell to try to make out it is better than it really is.

Best phone them: they can be very slow replying to Emails .

Jo

I'm stil looking for the handle and screw.

Menessis

And from what I can tell they don't respond to emails at all.

Menessis

If I had to move that I'd lay it on it's back on a pallet.

Chances are if you don't it will be on it's side or front anyway at the first corner.

Hey there, I know the machine you are potentially going to make an offer on, I also have a harrison mill with nearly the same issue with it, mine has a broken cross slide nut and handle, but my cross slide screw is likely good. I ordered a new cross slide screw and nut from from G & M (note they only have imperial for this part) and it arrived in Canada pretty quick. when I dismantle my table to replace my broken nut, you can have my cross slide screw for free or a nominal cost, whatever you think is fair. I would suggest moving the mill with a u-haul trailer, they are $30 to rent in Canada. That with metal pipe rollers and an aircraft cable winch with a wood pallet is how I moved mine from Barrie to TO. 2 dudes is what it took. I told the seller of the machine you are likely buying from to get the buyer of the machine to contact me so I can help. I also have a copy of the manual if you want, and G&M also has the handle for the knee you are missing for sale for around 20£. The biggest cost to you for this machine will be getting it to run off 110 or 220. It is likely a 575v machine. These have been my hurtles and I am slowly

making progress in refurbishing my machine. Any who, ask the seller for my contact info when the time comes. Best regards, e

Also, putting it on it's back on a pallet will cause any coolant in the reservoir in the base to pour out, potentially all over the main motor, which would not be pretty. Rigging straps can keep it stable on a trailer while upright. Needs to be a class 3 trailer hitch on the vehicle, as the machine is very heavy. Mine was injured by the seller when it fell off the substandard trailer which collapsed under it. Note that fixing the machine in its present state is not a small amount of work, depending on your level of skill and available tools, hoisting capabilities, etc... Which is why repair is still underway. Good luck, E

Hi Rico....the other issue with it is the the handle and scale. Not a lot of machines around to get parts from.

I have an old  Delta UniSaw 3 phase that I put a motor controller on. They work great. This mill has two motors I think. I could change the pump motor to 110 maybe or just switch motors. Don't know. Or add coolant by hand LOL.

Thanks for the offer. Where are you?

G & M are not my favorites right now. Emailed them a number of times with no reply.

Menessis

Edited By Menessis on 23/03/2014 15:48:22

G&M: Phone, phone, phone or don't expect a reply any time soon.

There are three 3 phase motors on a Harrison: The main spindle motor which is in the base, the very hard to get hold of power feed motor and the suds pump.

If you lay it on its back you will break the back cover as it only fibre glass and the base is not very wide so it will probably be unstable and end up leaning on the end of the table causing damage. The lifting point is in the over arm and there are tie down points in the base designed to help keep it upright when it is moved.

The manual is freely available on the internet for download.

Jo

The reason I said to lay it on its back was in reply to the original post which it appears no one else read. He needs to get this in the back of a van hence lack of hight. Its also good practise to drain any coolant if only for a fresh start with clean fluid

Again without stating the obvious, remove any tin or plastic guards and block up on secure timbers

It was only a simple reply and not aimed to be the words and music

LOL "moderator" I think with most of these machines that have a base it isn't too much work to take off the head and anything else that looks heavy or can get bent or broken. Then a few bolts and the mill itself comes off the base. I can get 46" through the door upright.

I wonder why G & M even has an email account????

Menessis

Edited By Menessis on 23/03/2014 20:49:17