MT2 for rotary table

Thinking about making a stubby MT2 taper for aligning my rotary table (as shown in Howard Hall's book) and after trawling through the mire of messages about this am wondering whether it is better to buy a centre and cut it down (but it will be hardened?)

Howard suggested something 40mm (1.5 inches odd) long would be enough, what do people think? I can set the compound over and have a go but am wondering what other people do? Seems like it could be a pain (time consuming operation) for little reward

Guess the easy way out is to stick a centre in the RT and chuck, and line the points up but this seems a bit heath robinson (not very scientific)

Also doesn't allow the creation of workholding adaptors

I can find MT2 arbor blanks (used one for my slitting saw holder) but if I have to cut it down once again it's hardened?

Regards

Chris

Had same problem so bought a blank arbor and cut it down with angle grinder - cleaned up end on grindstone and then found that the arbor was only case hardened so could set centre hole in the end with normal drill - set arbor in lathe headstock to drill.

Ah - interesting, thanks

Don't have an angle grinder so would be cutting by hand - and ideally I would like to bore out the end to allow interchangeable inserts, I was twitching a bit at the thought of this, particularly if it's case hardened.

Do have some carbide tools though...

Chris

I've always understood that headstock centres were soft Tailstock centres were hard I would have thought that one could get soft blank arbours

Roy

Hi Chris

You can buy No.2 ( and other) blank end arbors where the ends are left soft for machining see HERE

I have done just as you say - held the arbor in the headstock spindle taper drilled and reamed a hole then made up various "bits" to fit the hole. A tapped hole for a grub screw in the side of the blank end secures the "bit" - file a little flat or drill a dimple if you think it necessary.

Norman

Edited By NJH on 13/12/2013 16:42:04