Boring Head with integral shank

I m looking for a boring head to use on my mill (Warco Super Major), R8 about 2"

I d like one with an integral R8 shank as I think this will be the most rigid option. I can find any number of heads with removeable shanks but non with an integral shank. Am i worrying too much, do most people use heads with removeable shanks ?

Any advice and recommendations for a quality boring head and tools please.

I m running a Warco Super Major Mill.

Fixed shank is the last think I want (but unfortunately have). It enables you to use it on other machines, also lathe, lathe tailstock for offset taper turning, using for ball turning. Probably other things too.

I Prefer solid shank boring heads and also boring bars and fly cutters,The one piece construction reduces vibration and chattering particularly when the job in hand is approaching the limits of the tool capacity.

I run a GH Universal with a removable shank 50mm boring head with no troubles. The shanks have a large flange which the body is screwed up to, thus forming a very rigid assembly. Manufacturers make them like this as it is more cost effective and mine was originally a 3MT mount for my previous mill. More important is the cutting bits you use and the grind on them, the bits supplied with most of these heads are pretty poor our of the box.

Thank you, do you have any recommendations for a cutting tool set. All the usual suppliers appear to be selling the same/similar carbide tipped variety probably of Chinese origin.

The brazed carbide tools work well enough and can be shaped into "specials" such as a chamfering one and a concave/convex one. Though they do benifit from a touch up before use and care to ensure there is no rubbing.

Mostly I use an indexable holder in my boring head, I have a set of 3 by Glanze and they work very well

Mine are all separate body and shank, even a top end Wohlhaupter boring and facing heads comes with separate shank so if it's good enough for them............

As mentioned above a boring head is a good way to offset your tailstock for taper turning without disturbing the tailstock from it's base. I have 50mm and 2" heads and R8 and MT3 shanks so can use 1/2" and 12mm tools in three mills and the lathe tailstock, sleeve takes it upto MT4 if I want to use it in the lathe spindle.

Edited By JasonB on 02/03/2023 12:05:39

A Machine Shop gave me a Boring Head and one Boring Bar - they said it chattered. When I tried it in my Mill, I found the R8 Profile was not to spec - it rattled in the Spindle before tightening the Draw Bar. The upper parallel Section of the R8 was much undersize. I purchased a New R8 threaded Adapter and presto - the Boring Head has given excellent Service - no Chatter.

I agree with Howardt - the Cutting Bit geometry is more critical than the threaded Joint. The Boring Bar I was given looks like it came from one of those sets you see advertised with Boring Heads. What I did not care for, there was no Flat on the Boring Bar to set the angle on the Tool Tip to the Boring Head axis. Plus, the first time one might tighten the Set Screws, one would have a horrible time removing the Boring Bar from the Boring Head. By measurement I determined the Carbide Tip Cutting Face on my Boring Bar was right on centerline. I set the Boring Bar horizontal in the Mill Vice and indicated across the Cutting Face to set it horizontal. I then milled a Flat on the Boring Bar a little wider that the Set Screws in the Boring Head. Problem solved.

Arc Euro trade do heads with HSS cutters & sell the seperate HSS cutters. Can't comment further as i do not have & have not tried~ probably of Chinese origin also (as most will be) but their HSS lathe tools and blanks are good enough.

Need a boring head myself, still wondering about making one, looks more time consuming than genuinely difficult??

The threaded joint between the arbor and the head is the strongest part of any boring bar. The weakness is in the moving parts and the fixing of the tools to the head.