Inlay with iron-on veneer

Last year I was asked to make a toy box for my grand-daughter and, as usual, I got a bit carried away with the project (interlocking drawers, nice bit of inlay, ...)

Then I discovered how hard it is to get old style veneer at a sensible price (yes, there is some but it all seems to be 3m lengths by 0.5mm thick. Ooh, posty's going to love that!) So I bought some iron-on, self-adhesive stuff that comes in rolls and is 250mm wide by 2 or 3m long.

The trouble is, it shrinks when applied and it's a devil of a job keeping edges straight (I needed three widths). The advice is to iron on the first piece then stick the next piece to it with old-style gummed parcel tape. But that doesn't really allow for inlay so I cheated.

I finished the veneer on the whole box and spent ages trying to wash off the gum from the tape. Then I traced the outline of the result I wanted and very carefully cut along the lines so that I cut all the way through the wood grain. After that, using the end of a pickle stick which I'd filed to a spatula I applied stains to the different areas. It took quite a while but the result was worth it.

I ought to admit I practiced a lot before the final version and I had lots of mis-shapen owls in the firewood box.

In case it's of any use to others, it can be done.

Had you not said it was stained I'd have thought it was inlay.

You can also buy a clear gluefilm which can be used to stick larger sheets, these sheets available at 8x4 with the veneers stitched together and all bonded to a backing paper for easy handling.

As for removing gummed veneer tape either use a cabinet scraper or sand it off.

Single leaves of veneer can usually be rolled and posted in a square box

Thanks Jason

Everything I came across seemed to suggest veneer was shipped flat so it's good to know it can be rolled for delivery. My remaining stock is very old (inherited) and crumbles when bent much