D10 exhaust manifold

Hi, I am finally completing my Stuart double 10. I purchased the completed piping with flanges that ties the two exhaust ports together when I ordered the casting kit. In retrospect, I should have waited to drill the exhaust ports in the cylinders until the engine was more or less complete so that I could have adjusted the distance between the ports to exactly match the flanges on the piping.

As it stands now the piping needs to be "stretched" about 1/32" to allow the flanges to mate properly. My plan is to heat and melt the silver solder on the end flange/coupling fitting, quickly pull it out the 1/32" and allow the joint to cool and harden. Does this sound doable, or must I heat and take the joint apart completely, clean everything and resolder it in the correct position?

Thanks in advance, John.

You could make a couple of copper "gaskets" to take up the difference ?
BobH

A bit of work with a file or Dremel to shift the exhaust holes in the castings and a needle file to move the screw holes in the flanges over by 1/64th each would probably be easier, file the outside of the flange if needed to make it look symetrical. Infact the main exhaust holes could be left as is you will not really be restricting the flow.

Silver solder becomes harder to melt the second time around and even when liquid will not be that easy to just pull apart by 1/32"

Edited By JasonB on 14/01/2017 08:14:45

Thanks for the advise. If I were to choose to take the joint apart and resolder it with the flanges connected would I have to clean the tubing down to bare copper or would the new silver solder fuse with the old residue? I have very little experience with silver solder.

It should bond to any of the old solder, you will need to reflux too.