Machine Installation

Regarding the levelling and bolting of lathes etc. Can I make the following suggestions, as I have seen a lot of advice been given on this forum, a lot of it is good but some of it is bad and some of it mixes the two!

Any machine should be levelled when it is installed, although it may operate quite satisfactorily and accurately whilst not being level, although this is probably more to do with luck than judgment, and certainly only applies to small workshop machines - similar to those used in home workshops.

To Install and level your machine:-

1) Select a suitable position for your machine. When you are selecting the position do your best to think about things like, the route for the power and/or compressed air supply(if required), lighting, headroom, space for handling and storing materials, access for future maintenance or breakdown requirements for the machine. Most importantly think about the floor and how it will react to the weight of the machine. Wooden floors are fine but concrete is better. Many shed floors are unsuitable for the weight of a machine and will require to be "beefed" up. Thought must go into how a wooden floor can be made suitable, often it may be a case of adding extra floor joists etc. but remember that wood can rot over time, especially if it is in contact with moisture. The last thing you need is to come into your shed one morning find that your lathe/mill etc. has dropped through a hole in the floor! If your chosen position has a concrete floor make sure the concrete is thick enough, a few small diameter test holes bored in the floor will soon show how thick it is. Concrete paving slabs are never going to be a good base.

2) Check that your bit of chosen floor is clean and as level as possible, If it is on a serious slope - level it. A skim of concrete to form a machine sized pad on a concrete floor or something like plywood on a wooden floor. It's best if you can get it as close as possible to level at this stage. When the base area is ready then its best to paint or apply a suitable floor coating it at this point.

3) Position your machine. Now is a good time to check that you can open doors, access panels etc. and to make sure that you can get yourself into the right spaces to perform maintenance.

4) Check the level of the machine. Use a good quality engineers level, as pretty as it may be, your grandfathers old rosewood and brass level is not suitable, nor is a builders type level. Check both in the x and y directions making sure the level is on a machined surface and make sure the level and the surface are clean. On a long machine make sure you check both ends of the machine bed. If it is not level then level it using the machines own feet (if they are adjustable) or by packing shims under the machine feet if they are not. Please note that I'm talking about the machine base or cabinet, not the bed of the lathe etc.

5) Once the machine is level, and it may take a few tries at levelling because when you adjust one part it will affect another. Then the machine can be bolted down. Please note I say can, not must, most lathes and mills however do not need to be bolted down they will stay where they have been positioned quite happily. Some machines will vibrate and move so they require holding in position. There is also an element of safety to think of here as certain machines can be top heavy when in use (I'm thinking of things like pillar drills). You need to consider what the requirements are and decide how you are going to hold the machine in place. I would suggest that if you do decide to hold the machine in position then you can use anchor bolts in concrete and coach screws for a wooden floor. For some applications simply "pegging" the machine in position will be sufficient to stop it wandering. If you are concerned about a machine (such as a lathe or mill) toppling over then add nuts to the anchor studs but use a pair of locknuts tightened against each other or a nylock nut to hold the machine from toppling.(the reason for the two locknuts us to prevent the anchor bolts from distorting the base of the machine - which can twist lathe beds etc. The shims mentioned in part 4 (if you used them) should be drilled and place on the pegs to stop them from sliding out over time. A machine such as a pillar drill should be tightened down securely

6) Check the level of the machine again and make any required changes to your shims or machine feet.

7) Wire and test your machine, Most machines will probably be suitable for use having performed levelling as detailed but some may require adjustments to the machine bed to eliminate any twisting etc. Some of this may be due to second hand machines having been set up to match the floor etc. in a previous installation. I would recommend that you try to obtain a copy of the manufacturers instructions for the machine if you need to make these types of changes before attempting any adjustments.

8) Enjoy your machine

Martin C