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Getting a milling head ready for use

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Simon Williams 301/05/2020 08:43:51
728 forum posts
90 photos

Bingo! Well done, excellent result.

And congrats for applying a bit of science and hitting it in the right place.

(Like the joke: To hitting with hammer - £5

To knowing where to hit with hammer £105)

Best rgds Simon

choochoo_baloo01/05/2020 12:51:35
avatar
282 forum posts
67 photos
Posted by Steviegtr on 30/04/2020 23:58:33:

Out of interest can you tell me the hp rating of the motor you have .

Originally fitted 1/3 HP single phase.

Cheers.

s_motor - 1.jpg

Steviegtr01/05/2020 14:39:23
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2668 forum posts
352 photos

Thanks for that. It is the same as mine apart from someone has fitted a 3phase motor. Very old though, says made in the USSR. So must be from some time ago. Edit. Looks like it changed in 1991. So not that long ago. The head you have seems identical to the light vertical on my machine. The thing with the collar on your Clarkson, being fixed & not threaded eludes me. But I have only just started using mine so do not know much about them. Other than from other members.

Hope you get it fitted & working ok. Wish I had a spare head to experiment with. Regards.

Steve.

old mart01/05/2020 15:32:39
4655 forum posts
304 photos

We were all holding our breath while you were struggling to remove the Morse taper. Now its off, make sure the tapers are clean before putting anything back on. Is that a threaded collar, or is it all one piece? If it turns out to have threads, they will be left hand.

Howard Lewis01/05/2020 15:44:56
7227 forum posts
21 photos

Don't know the machine, but hope that this may help in the future.

On my Far Eastern Mill/Drill, I made up an extractor for the drawbar.

This keeps forces within the spindle, without loading the bearings, and consequent risk of damage.

Removed the left hand threaded nut retaining the pulley to the spindle.

Turned the under side back for approx 3 mm

Piece of 3mm plate, drill / bore hole in centre to match the newly turned diameter on nut.

Drrill and tap two holes, symmetrical about the just bored hole. (I used 1/4 BSF for a 3 MT, so should be O K for 2 MT )

Make up similar plate, but with a central hole drilled/ tapped for forcing screw. Drill two clearance holes to match the tappings in the lower plate.

Reassemble nut, with plate on underside, to machine.

When it is needed to remove a fitting from the quill,

Slacken Drawbar by a turn or so.

Assemble loose plate, with central forcing screw, to the plate on the machine, and secure with two bolts /.setscrews. Tighten central forcing screw, hard. Taper should break. If it doesn't, a light tap on the forcing screw should suffice.

H T H

Howard

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