Knurling speed

Aah, but a good knurl should have tiny flats on top, applied with a fine file after finishing knurling, so the knurl is smooth and gentle on the delicate hands of the user yet provides grip.

So I was taught as a pimply yoof by those who claimed to know about such things from ancient practice.

Edited By Hopper on 06/04/2019 11:48:41

Good knurl will not have flats, thats a sign of imperfection and easier to do.

Poor tuition, if knurls too grippy for delicate hands choose a finer knurl and do it right.

Much like chequering, English is pointed except Greener.

Agreed that flats left on a knurl by not completing it to points is an imperfection. This is because the incompleted knurl will have tiny burrs raised around the edges of the flats from the rolling/forming process.

But running a fine file over the points after completion is S.O.P. everywhere I worked, just the same as breaking the sharp edges with a file on any freshly turned or milled or ground piece is SOP.

Quite true a coarse compression knurl usually adds 0.3 to 0.37mm to the dimension. Done another 18 today.
For those that dont know the two knurls force material by compression and it has to go some where.

If your just doing straight conventional knurling on bar it wont matter unless it specifically states a final dimension.
End or cylindrical knurls will gain in size and leave a burr thats easily sanded off.
End and cylindrical knurls it wont matter just put a chamfer on first.
You can even knurl with tool set at 45 degrees, just judge the finish by eye and sand the burrs off frnt face and cylinder.

A proper grind wont leave a burr, worst case you could wipe it off being sub 3 thou cut.
If your grinding away coarse just removing depth that will leave a burr.