Chris Trice | 09/05/2014 13:34:20 |
![]() 1376 forum posts 10 photos | Thanks for the offer. I was 50/50 whether to go to Harrogate but unfortunately can't really spare the time. I'm in Kent. However, I did a meter test. I'm getting a reading of 17 with the meter set on 2000 across P and Z2. I'm getting no reading at all on any setting across U1 and P or U1 and Z2 i.e. the meter value of 1 remains unchanged.
Edited By Chris Trice on 09/05/2014 13:36:18 |
Chris Trice | 09/05/2014 13:39:59 |
![]() 1376 forum posts 10 photos | Between U1 and U2, I'm getting a reading of 2 (which is good I think).
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Les Jones 1 | 09/05/2014 14:51:02 |
2292 forum posts 159 photos | Hi Chris, Les. |
Chris Trice | 09/05/2014 16:48:33 |
![]() 1376 forum posts 10 photos | When you turn the meter on to test resistence, it defaults to 1. If you touch the probes of the meter together, it changes. When I touch the appropriate terminals, the default reading of 1 stays on the meter suggesting there is no circuit or continuity of any kind. Edited By Chris Trice on 09/05/2014 16:49:59 |
Les Jones 1 | 09/05/2014 21:18:36 |
2292 forum posts 159 photos | Hi Chris, Les. |
Chris Trice | 09/05/2014 23:24:43 |
![]() 1376 forum posts 10 photos | I'm coming to that conclusion. I feel another strip down coming on and a more detailed check for swarf or burning/pitting somewhere in the motor. The frustrating thing is it's worked perfectly for years with no failures or hiccups then suddenly, doesn't work with no warning or indicators of what the problem is.
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Neil Lickfold | 10/05/2014 08:59:50 |
1025 forum posts 204 photos | My motor had problems back in 2005. I thought it was a cap problem, so took the motor off and to a place to check it out. The man un soldered the cap,tested it and said it was all fine. I took it apart, he looked at the brushes in the switch, although not perfect he said that it still should have been working. I put it all together, he soldered back on the cap, connected some wire and worked fine. He said that sometimes over time, the soldered connection of the wires to the cap need re soldering. I took it all apart as I thought that there was a problem with the centrifugal switch. I was wrong. It worked faultlessly until 2012, when everything stopped again. This time it was the forward and reverse switch that went. So I retired the motor and put on a 3phase motor with a VFD drive. The motor still works fine, and is sitting on the shelf as a spare for something one day. |
Clive Hartland | 10/05/2014 09:38:08 |
![]() 2929 forum posts 41 photos | The motor on my sawbench started to get hot and sometimes stopped mid run, I could not get a replacement as it was a double ended shaft type with pulleys at both ends. I took it to a local rewind place, just 2 chaps and quite a lot of test gear. They set it up and ran it for a moment and it showed that the start windings were not switching out. They rewound it and put in a new switch and it works fine, a bit expensive but as there was no hope of a replacement motor justified. Put it in the hands of a qualified motor rewind service, they will fix it or supply a new one.Wondering whether its a capacitor or a winding, is a fault waiting to come back and bite you later. Clive |
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