Brian Wood | 09/01/2013 14:08:46 |
2742 forum posts 39 photos | Hello Andrew, Yes, you are of course right and I remember now what was odd about the feedscrews. They were fitted with dials of 80 divisions, not 100 as I said earlier; so tooling moves more than you expect. Sorry for the confusion, but it was a long time ago. Regards Brian |
Chris123 | 17/04/2013 15:06:13 |
123 forum posts | I've been turning tubes recently that needed to be 0.01mm parallel. I used a small Myford M Type (1949) . I turned centre - centre. The headstock was a piece of steel that I put a MT1 taper on one end and a 90 degree taper on the other. At the tail stock I used a live 90 degree centre. Due to the age and type of lathe it took a long time to setup but eventually I got it to 0.01 parallel over 300mm. Further parts have been the same tolerance too. I found 90 degree tapers to be far better for tubes as opposed to 60 degree centre that you would normally use. Also, making a cross-slide lock got me down from 0.03mm to 0.01 mm. I had spoken to a couple of engineering companies to do the work for me, they said they couldn't do it!
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Kevin F | 18/04/2013 22:35:01 |
96 forum posts 24 photos |
Posted by Chris Pocock on 17/04/2013 15:06:13:
I've been turning tubes recently that needed to be 0.01mm parallel. I used a small Myford M Type (1949) . I turned centre - centre. The headstock was a piece of steel that I put a MT1 taper on one end and a 90 degree taper on the other. At the tail stock I used a live 90 degree centre. Due to the age and type of lathe it took a long time to setup but eventually I got it to 0.01 parallel over 300mm. Further parts have been the same tolerance too. I found 90 degree tapers to be far better for tubes as opposed to 60 degree centre that you would normally use. Also, making a cross-slide lock got me down from 0.03mm to 0.01 mm. I had spoken to a couple of engineering companies to do the work for me, they said they couldn't do it!
Well done Chris ,given a bit of set up time these old lathes can produce accurate work Edited By Kevin Fenrich on 18/04/2013 22:35:33 |
jason moore 1 | 19/04/2013 09:00:03 |
21 forum posts | Now that you have got your ml4 to turn diameters parallel try machining a bore to the same standard. With the work piece held in the chuck or on a faceplate of course, not with a boring bar between centers. If your lathe can do this you are as jammie as a jammie thing covered in jam! An ml1 owner. Edited By jason moore 1 on 19/04/2013 09:04:01 |
Kevin F | 19/04/2013 22:26:22 |
96 forum posts 24 photos |
Posted by jason moore 1 on 19/04/2013 09:00:03:
Now that you have got your ml4 to turn diameters parallel try machining a bore to the same standard. With the work piece held in the chuck or on a faceplate of course, not with a boring bar between centers. If your lathe can do this you are as jammie as a jammie thing covered in jam! An ml1 owner. Edited By jason moore 1 on 19/04/2013 09:04:01
Hi Jason , it does bore true over a depth of 50mm ,I've found it helps If you take a few ' spring cuts ' befor you get to your required I/D |
jason moore 1 | 20/04/2013 08:18:50 |
21 forum posts | You have got a good one there.I wish my ml1 was as accurate. More work required on my part i think! |
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