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Whittling down round bar stock with emery paper.

How hard can it be to reduce the size of round bar stock?

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Hopper09/05/2023 04:52:53
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7881 forum posts
397 photos

I found at a very young age that silver steel is not very good for motorcycle axles, even on a small BSA Bantam 150cc. Tended to snap on landing over jumps, which got rather exciting. SAE 4140 chrome moly steel would be my choice today. AKA EN19 I believe.

Note Jason's sage advice of turn down the whole length undersize, bar the sections where the bearings fit. Saves a lot of work.

Your piece of bar is probably the right size per its own specs. Bearing ID's are usually made to be a tightish fit on the shaft so the shaft does not spin in the bearing race. Bearing manufacturers' websites give details of exact sizing. Not unusual to have to tap the shaft into the bearing, force bearing on the inner race only of course so it does not impact the balls or rollers.

For removing a thou or two as you are attempting along a large area, if you absolutely can't turn it down, I would start with a 10" flat single-cut file such as a mill-saw file and then finish with emery. But if you follow Jason's advice and cut the area down to just the bearing mount areas, emery will probably do the job alone.

not done it yet09/05/2023 06:32:46
7517 forum posts
20 photos

I don’t think these bearings should actually just ’slip’ along the shaft. There are fairly precise tolerances for bearing fit to shafts - usually needing to be press fitted. Yours may need loctiting if loose on the shaft.

duncan webster09/05/2023 09:38:18
5307 forum posts
83 photos

If it's the non rotating spindle for a wheel hub then OP is correct, close sliding fit in inner, light press fit on outer. If it's the other way round, rotating inner and fixed outer then vice versa.

Edited By duncan webster on 09/05/2023 09:38:56

Howard Lewis09/05/2023 12:00:29
7227 forum posts
21 photos

You cpould always put the axle into the freezer, overnight, and then fit the bearings.

The few tenths of onterference weill stop the inner race from slippingb onn the shaft, without affectingb the rest of the race too much.

Howard

Danny Clarke09/05/2023 12:11:17
10 forum posts

Thanks everyone!

Great input and much appreciated.

As I have the Silversteel already I will do my Mk1 half-shafts in this (once I have reduced them down to allow the bearings to be a stiff slip-fit along the entire length).

Stainless Steel would probably be cheaper at any rate, but I will use what I have spent my money on already first.

Dan.

Danny Clarke09/05/2023 12:23:29
10 forum posts
Posted by David Davies 8 on 08/05/2023 21:28:57:

Danny

Trikit make tricycles and used to make rear axle conversions It may be worth asking the proprietor Geoff Booker [email protected] what material he uses.

HTH Dave

Hi Dave,

Yes I know one can buy what I am making "off-the-shelf" on Ali-Express for £100 more or less, but where's the fun in that? Geoff's "Trykit" is well known among the "English Trike" racing fraternity I think.

What I am making is a crude home-made version of Geoff's end result using mostly "off-the-shelf" sub-components, in true "Atomic-Zombie" fashion. **LINK**

Thanks,

Dan.

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