Reilang oil cans, fit for purpose?

the thread on mine (EL1) appears to be machined, no flats, and the body seals to the pump bit with a flat washer.

It has never occurred to me to store it other than upright.

You can buy quad rings which are square section orings and in Viton. As far as I know, most oils won't break down the Viton rubber. They come in 2 hardness grades as well, around 90 shore the harder one, and around 70 shore the softer one. They used to be different colours as well, but I think they are all black now.

If you figure out how to stop it leaking around the pump handle I will be all ears.

I found the source of the leak for mine in the patent drawing. There is no seal between the lifting rod of the pump and bushing that it runs in. So I guess over time it wears loose or was a bad initial fit, but mine is very old. So the oil will leak out of it over time. I am thinking that it has a certain amount of clearance to allow air back into the can when the oil is pumped out of it, and that the length of the bushing allows for when it falls over, not to leak straight away. So my problem is solved, thanks to the patent drawings.

Thanks, Neil

Edited By Neil Lickfold on 08/06/2021 11:49:37

Hi Bryan

Her's a picture of my eagle type oil can, I've got a Reilang can and can say the eagle is just as good but in making it I did find one important thing out if you have a perfect seal the can won't work you need to let air into the top of the can to fill the space of the displaced oil as all you are doing is creating a vaccum, I also never fill it above the plunger as this is another area it can leek from, I regularly take the eagle to the track I just keep it standing up, that's why cans of this type have a nice flat base.

Take care I'll call soon

Stew

I have long suspected that there is a subtle relationship between internal air pressure variation and oil can leak propensity.

It would seem logical that if the air pressure in the can and pump inlet delivery system can be maintained slightly below atmospheric during operation any oil attempting to leak past seals, joints et al will tend to be drawn back into the can. If final pressure equalisation after use were via the delivery spout that would tend to clear any remaining oil.

The main leaks from mine when resting are from the spouts. Oil seems to creep up rather than drop back. Possibly because the spouts are simple transparent plastic tube with a wire stiffener inside so they hold any bend. Wire in tube is a known way of encouraging capillary flow.

The $64,000 question is how to affordably provide such pressure control without upsetting priming, suction into the pump and oil delivery.

It seems relatively easy to make a system that requires priming after each delivery pump but that would be incredibly irritating to use. The common chemical lab wash bottle is an excellent, cheap, example of such a system. Squeezing the bottle pumps the fluid up through the nozzle. Releasing it draws air back through the nozzle clearing the tube preventing leaks. Possibly something clever could be done with a double acting pump.

The Reilang patent linked to by Michael G seems to make reference to venting arrangements contributing to such pressure control.

I imagine the reported variations in leak performance are primarily due to small variations in insufficiently controlled dimensions leading to different air and oil leak path resistance leading to a different pressure variation profile.

One things for sure any pump oil can leak free by design needs the pump unit completely sealed from the can save for the suction pipe. If its going to be leak free regardless of spindle orientation it will also need a positive tap or screw down seal on the can vent. A simple spring seal won't be enough. Devices of this style have been made for other purposes. The one I encountered was for military purposes. The price tag was significantly more impressive that the (excellent) performance!

Clive

Anybody remember the the round pressed steel container oil dispenser with a screw in nozzle? I seem to recall they were supplied with bicycle tool kits, the nozzle had a screw on brass cap which prevented oil from leaking - always assuming you didn't lose it. I always had one of those in my saddle bag and I don't recall them ever leaking. Phil

Edited By Philip Rowe on 09/06/2021 11:23:35

Apologies for digging this back up but I hope this will help others too.

after having the same issue, I decided to run off a load of leather washers.
the rubber o ring is completely useless once it gets the tiniest drop of oil near it, it just squeezes out of the side of the can.

I have used an excellent quality, veg tanned leather. The inner diameter is a perfect fit for the 200ml pump.
im interested to know if all reilang oil cans utilise the same pump, with just the can increasing in size. If this is the case, these leather washers will fit all models.

If anybody is interested, I’ll happily post them.
£3 per washer £1 postage.

**LINK**

I hope this helps!!

Darren

Edited By Darren Bingham on 22/07/2023 09:00:22

Oiled my Myford yesterday using a 'Myford' gun (the black kind) purchased some years ago. I keep it in an upright length of plastic pipe with a drain plug at the bottom. I always look for my towel and oily rag before using it, as the rag is used to mop up the mess afterwards and the towel to clean my hands. It's a complete pain to use.

Making a new oil gun has lingered on my TUIT list for a long time but never got to the top of it. Has anyone found a way to improve these Myford oil guns? Mine spurts oil even when pulling the plunger out..

Regards,

IanT

Having used a genuine Myford oil gun on my ML7 there was no fear of my hands, or anything else, going rusty.

Bought a Reilang, well over 20 years ago, and never had an oil leak since.. The O ring is original, but the sesatings are kept clean..

Wish that Wesco oil cans were as good.

Howard