Carriage stop/dial gauge mount.

Hi guys

I thought I would update on this, and hopefully save you some drinking time.

So, the clamp thing (in my opinion) waste of time. The Plastic printing guy (eBay - great guy and knows his stuff) doesn't think it will work but did provide an option with magnets BUT with his clock embedded.

Im not keen on a 30mm clock or buying another when I have a few old ones around.

Got me thinking about using a >100mm digital vernier instead of 50mm clock at silly money.

If I have to use magnets, then I can prob make myself easy - right?

Turns out YES. There's a YouTube clip somewhere of a US guy making one with iGaging depth gauge. Can buy in UK for >£50 but Amazon £40 imported from US.

So for magnets.

I did loads of research using couple of magnet sites. Nothing perfect.

Then, I went back on Amazon and found these (below) because they have a hole which I can attached to Saddle (Oil Guard thingymabob) and I hoped the vernier marking wheel would be sufficient for pulling the gauge. It does perfect.

Magnetpro 8 Pieces Strong Neodymium Rectangular Magnets 20 KG Force 40 x 13.5 x 5 mm with Countersunk Hole and Capsule, Household and Industrial Rare Earth Magnet with Mounting Screws

Also, I thought the 5mm height and 40mm length would be OK for under a base-plate: which is a 70mm piece of 40mm angle iron (maybe with some 5mm packing also to avoid any snatching when installing). Note that I'm using 5mm drills in pic for testing the height.

Sorry I haven't fitted these yet so cant show a finished pic.

Turns out I didnt need these specific (8 pack) magnets, but thought I would share that they are very good, so I'm sure I'll find a use for them - one day! I could have bought just 1 of something similar for under the base-plate. With hindsight I would get 1 magnet of similar quality and 5mm height, which is good height for hitting metal on the Saddle oil-guard.

Anyway,

I also found this magnet: Magnetpro 8 Pieces Strong Neodymium Rectangular Magnets 20 KG Force 40 x 13.5 x 5 mm with Countersunk Hole and Capsule, Household and Industrial Rare Earth Magnet with Mounting Screws

Turns out this has an M3 screw. But would this small thing really be strong enough?

Yep. Ive just tried it with steel ruler on my desk and it sticks like shit to a shovel. So, turns out adding an iGaging vernier is a piece of cake.

BUT as with all things with this Clarke lathe, its not all good news as it's going to be in the way of the Tailstock.

cheers all

Coming soon - How to make a Gin Still out of a Clarke CL500M

The CL500M (And the CL430 ) have Dovetail beds, (As do the Myford ML1.2, 3 and 4 ).

So it would be easy to make up a clamp which locks on to each side of the bed, with a tapping in one and a clearance hole inn the other so that tightening a knob would clamp the device securely to the bed. The front piece needs to have the means of carrying the measuring instrument (Drilled / reamed hole with tapping for screw to clamp the DTI )

The lower part of the front clamp needs to be high enough to clear the guard over the Leadscrew.

On my lathe, I made a clamp to fit the front prism way on the bed, suitably shaped, reamed, tapped to carry, in this case, a Micrometer barrel.

See my albums for pictures of the Saddle Stop for a Myford ML4, and the Micrometer Stop for my BL12 -24.

Howard

Edited By Howard Lewis on 18/06/2021 18:16:54

Hi Howard

I guess your talking about your Tailstock stop type thing (below)?

Could do, Yes.

I just feel its a bit over-engineered/extreme and would be a pain to remove.

BTW for a Tailstock stop I would drill/tap into lathe bed and use a Bolt or make a Threaded pin.

I guess time, materials and machines/Tools to hand will influence how we design things.

I will probably use Plastic Angle section instead of steel.

cheers

Hi Danni.

NOT a stop for the Tailstock, but for the Saddle.

That one was made for a Myford ML4, but there is no reason why the dimensions cannot be amended to suit another dovetail bed lathe, such as the CL430, or CL500M

The design can be amended to carry a DTI, or could be drilled and tapped, say 40 tpi, so that a 40 tpi threaded setscrew could be used to set the distance that the Saddle can travel before hitting the stop.

My Micrometer stop (See another of my Albums ) is used in this way.. The Micrometer barrel is extended to the required travel, and the assembly is clamped to the lathe bed, with the micrometer stem in contact with the Saddle.

The micrometer stem is then withdrawn (The Micrometer barrel is set so that the Zero coincides with the front surface of the clamp ) When the Saddle contacts the face of the clamp, the Saddle has travelled the set distance.

I always traverse the Saddle, the last few thou by hand, rather than risk a power feed forcing the stop along the bed, leading to an inaccurate result.

Howard

Hi Howard,

I get you now.

Its the Mic stop type of design that I was hoping for with the clamp, but the Clarke bed isnt really suited with only 6mm of recess (which unfortunately has radius) at the rear to hold onto. It would find without radius.

As long as the magnets hold it which I'm confident they will, it'll be OK and easy to remove in case of tailstock use needed. It may even be better that its not fastened, as it might save the DTI/Vernier in case of accidental Tailstock bashing,

Thanks again for all advice

Danni,

Have sent you pics of my Micrometer Saddle Stop in position on the lathe.

Howard (aka Fat Fingers )

Edited By Howard Lewis on 21/06/2021 16:20:48