How dangerous are they - really?
Hopper | 30/06/2020 11:35:49 |
![]() 7881 forum posts 397 photos | I think that's drawing a rather long bow. But lets not get involved in politics. Nils illegitemi carborundum. But were you aware of the lense grinder who fell into his machine? Made a spectacle of himsel
Ok. Ok. Ill get me hat. Edited By Hopper on 30/06/2020 11:37:43 |
Neil Lickfold | 30/06/2020 12:15:07 |
1025 forum posts 204 photos | What surprises me, is that new grinding wheels are sold, with no instructions about crack or ring testing the wheel. Broken wheels don't happen all that often, but only once is too much. Last year a friend went to start a cylindrical grinder. It had a newly mounted and dressed wheel the week before that was ring tested. It broke almost perfect in half with the two pieces flying out like a brake drum shoe set. The motor stalled and the fuse failed all before he hit the e stop button. As an apprentice we were taught to stand to the side of the grinder when starting, and be on the side of the main power switch or wall outlet. Wait a few seconds, then use the grinder. Never stand directly in front on start up. All the wheel failures I have seen or heard about have occurred during or very shortly after it has got to full RPM on start up. |
pgk pgk | 30/06/2020 12:25:00 |
2661 forum posts 294 photos | I just came across this idea of bonding a wheel to a backing plate for face grinding.... https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=N9gDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA184&lpg=PA184&dq=cupwheel+arbour&source=bl&ots=rRELtOhn9f&sig=ACfU3U1YrkSDsGU7-PMyNfbGMkmAG7ns1w&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj47_ePtanqAhUMXsAKHX2RBlwQ6AEwEnoECAoQAQ#v=onepage&q=cupwheel%20arbour&f=false Ona related subject they also suggest similar for a cup wheel but that doesn;t srike me as such a goos diea with no arbour plate inside. I do have a cup wheel on order and was wondering how best to mount it on a home-made arbour... additional soft paper washers? It'll only be run at 2K rpm pgk |
mgnbuk | 30/06/2020 12:49:12 |
1394 forum posts 103 photos | I just came across this idea of bonding a wheel to a backing plate for face grinding.... The company I did my apprenticeship with had a vertical spindle surface grinder (may have been an Abwood) in the toolroom that had an abrasive ring "wheel" bonded to a steel backplate. The bonding material was heat softened - to change a wheel, the backplate was heated until the old wheel could be removed & the old adhesive removed with a wire brush to clean out the recess in the backplate. New adhesive was a yellowish brown powder that melted to a smelly dark brown thick paste when it was applied to the hot backplate. A new abrasive ring was settled in the hot paste & left to cool before remounting and dressing. There is a swinging head "die punch" grinder with a similar wheel arrangement where I work now - it could do with a new abrasive ring, but I have not investigated changing it as the machine gets negligable use. The toolrom roof had a hole from a bursting cup wheel on a tool & cutter grinder - small wheel, but a bit of it still managed to get two stories high & have enough energy to punch through what was probably an asbestos sheet roof panel. The hole was duly pointed out to all incoming apprentices as a warning not to mess about with grinding wheels. Nigel B. |
old mart | 30/06/2020 14:34:29 |
4655 forum posts 304 photos | I bought a bench grinder last year from Lidl, the type with one end geared down to about 120rpm with a large wet wheel for wood chisels and plane blades. That is too slow to be dangerous except for trapping fingers. The full speed wheel at the other end was removed and binned and a mandrel for a 100mm electroplated diamond wheel. This is made from aluminium and cannot shatter. The grinder has been mounted on an aluminium base with an adjustable rest for the diamond. These diamonds can be used for HSS, but as steel will cause chemical decomposition of the diamond, the life will be reduced. For limited home use, it probably wouldn't matter much. For grinding wet, the rule always to be observed is that you must turn off the coolant before the wheel. This ensures the wheel is pretty much dry before it stops turning. If the wheel is stopped while wet, the coolant will end up at the bottom of the wheel as it slowly drains away, and the wheel will be very out of balance when starting up. |
Neil Wyatt | 30/06/2020 15:22:15 |
![]() 19226 forum posts 749 photos 86 articles | Posted by Plasma on 30/06/2020 08:33:50:
We always ran the stone a few minutes with the water tank empty to dry it out at the end of the day. Amazing to hear water shooting off the stone from the portion that had sat in water as the trow was drained. Out of curiosity, in what part of the world did you grow up? My grandmother grew up on an Oxfordshire farm and always called a trough a trow, but I've never heard anyone else use the word. Neil |
Neil Wyatt | 30/06/2020 15:26:42 |
![]() 19226 forum posts 749 photos 86 articles | Yes, please avoid getting into the politics of Covid-19. Rather than have a discussion here anyone interested in the statistics can visit the link below which offers figures without any interpretation . Neil |
andrew lyner | 30/06/2020 15:28:47 |
274 forum posts 5 photos | Posted by Nicholas Farr on 30/06/2020 10:36:19:
Hi Andrew, please don't get complacent about the size of your wheels, as the smaller diameter of the wheel, generally will spin faster than a larger one. As it is the peripheral speed that counts, bits flying from it will be very much at the same speed, it's just the mass that will probably be significantly different. Regards Nick. Edited By Nicholas Farr on 30/06/2020 10:37:10 Never complacent about anything whirring round. Since my new white wheel arrived I don't even have to press hard to shift metal so there's even less stress (mechanical and mental)
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