My First Stationary Engine

Thanks Jason,

I will check my limited brass stock but I think I have a piece that would cover the 32mm so could go with a one piece cylinder with flange and them solder on a valve block as you suggest.

Ron

Hi Ron,

Thanks again for your recent p.m.

The cylinder is one piece. To make it I used a method described by ETW in a series of articles in M.E. magazine back in 1957.

If you google Westbury Muncaster engines it will take you to a site www.plans-for-everything.com

Page three of his article is exactly how I made the cylinder.

It's really interesting, have a look, a little dated but for its time probably the best method available in the home workshop. Now with more milling machines and accessories a much easier task to make.

Cheers Geoff

Thanks for the link Geoff which was interesting I will give it a go as a one piece and see how I get on.

Ron

Hi Geoff

Would I be correct in thinking you were running your engine in the video from an airbrush compressor it looked as if you were.

I have just ordered one, the one I have gone for is an on demand one it starts and stops with the opening and closing of the valve. The air supply is said to be constant it doesnt give a pulsed supply so hopefully it will be ok.

Ron

Ron, if you wanted to try the alternative valve ports then give this a go. 4.0mm holes instead of 3.5mm and I have shown the X & Y positions which should make it easier setting them out rather than using the angled line and PCD that Julius has on his drawing.

Having repaired a Mamod traction engine for someone over the weekend I'm tempted to build one of these to the Original Muncaster sizes and see if I can add a reverse function along the lines of what the Mamod uses.

Thanks Jason for doing this its appreciated I think I will go with it on the engine.

I never had a Mamod traction engine but did have the basic Mamod donkey boiler when I was about 10 years old, had hours of fun with that I remember it having one or two tools which you could connect to it.

It will be interesting to see If you do decide to build the engine with the Mamod reverse.

Thanks again

Ron

The RSPCA have put a stop to that now

HI Ron,

Yes it is an airbrush compressor, got it from RDG, very pleased with it.

Only used it for running engines and it's fine for smaller models but the tank lacks the air capacity to run larger engines at high speed for an extended period.

Geoff

Made a start this morning with the cylinder, its one piece having the valve block and top flange but the cylinder is open ended which I went for in ease of boring so needs an end cap which I will Loctite in.

Quite pleased with it and certainly enjoyed making it.

Looks good in brass Ron.

I enjoyed making the cylinder as well and like you I left it open and turned a cap to fit

You'll have fun making the standard as well.

Geoff

I have no experience of lapping in, would appreciate some advice on how to lap in the aluminium piston to the brass cylinder also the abrasive paste I will need.

Thanks

Ron

I got some more done today, the cylinder is not far from completion. I have the piston to lap in and an end cap to make and fit to the bottom of the cylinder, I also want to change the screws for a smaller head they are some standard M3 hex at the moment which I had on the shelf.

I use silicon carbide powers in various grits down to 1000g mixed with a little oil. For something a basic as this engine you could just turn a piece of hardwood to a good git in the bore and use that as the lap working down through the grits.

Then the piston can be lapped until it just starts to enter the bore with some wet and dry supported by something flat like a steel rule of piece of MDF. once it starts to enter use plenty of oil and a little of the finest abrasive and lap the piston into the cylinder if using no rings.

If using rings then take it down until it enters the cylinder by using the wet & dry.

For more critical jobs then an expandable metal lap can be made to lap the cylinder together with an external one to do the piston.

Ramon's thread on MEM is worth reading for a more in depth description.

Progress is looking good so far.

Thanks Jason, thats helpful I will search out some silicone carbide powders, would you happen to know if you can get sets i.e a selection of various grits.

Ron

Something like this will last a lifetime though the 80g is too coarse to be useful

Thanks Jason, got it on order should see it tomorrow/Monday.

Ron

I need to buy/make some parts for when I connect the engine to the compressor. The drawing shows the in/outlet nipples as having a central hex for fitting with M6 either side and a 3.5mm through hole. I am thinking the M6 for the tube connection is there to provide some grip for a push on fit, is that the norm for the tube connection..?

Thanks Ron

Bearing in mind that they are metric fine I would say he intends the adaptor to take a female threaded hose.

However you have a few options

1. Tap M6 x 1 or M6 x 0.75 and make a barbed connector to have a bit of hose pushed onto it.

2. Tap as above and make an adaptor with the other end threaded to suit the airbrush hose fitting

3. Tap M6 x 1 and then buy a push fit connector for say 6mm OD PVC tube and get a similar connector to fit the 1/8" or 1/4" BSP outlet of your compressor to go on the other end. If you do this I would suggest you use a screw down regulator at the compressor end as they are simple, cheap and easy to control speed with. You can see I have several on my manifold.

4. None of the above and bodge something with a heated tube and gaffer tape

Jason, I know I am a pain but having no experience of these engines can I trouble you to double check something for me.

If my calculations are correct and working from the drawing dimensions I make it that the piston at BDC covers the inlet/outlet valve, would that be correct..? I imagined that at BDC it would be just shy (above) the valves but maybe not.

Thanks

Ron

Edited By Ron Laden on 31/01/2020 07:43:04

Thanks for the hose options Jason.

Ron