Myford Power Cross Feed Screws & Nuts

Richard, lubrication, and main bearing adjustment, was the reason I was wondering if you had a manual.

I gave the main spindle bearings a squeeze from a grease gun when I got it; the previous owner had already started cleaning it up when he decided to sell it.
They are rough round the edges, and certainly not as well finished as the genuine article, but it seems to work well enough.
If mine's anything to go by, be careful with the clutch; my one was downright dangerous as it would occasionally just engage itself. I dis a bit of work on the camming release engage lever and it's now a more positive action.
Like you I wasn't happy with the cross feed spindle, but I've not replaced it.
I smartened up the handle end of the cross slide screw, and re-bored the black support bracket to suit, as well as making a new collar adjusting nut. The grub screw worked directly on the threaded section, so now has a nylon pad.
I can also confirm that a Myford Taper Turning attachment fits OK, though the bed casting is tapped metric, rather than BSF.

I was in the process of a very slow house move (2 1/2 years) and the workshop largely remained in Sheffield; various machinery, with a pre-power X feed S7 changewheel machine as the lathe.

I spotted the 720 advertised locally and was seduced by the gearbox, power X feed and a brand new inverter motor package. It came at a good price and was installed in the new house in Buxton.
The old house is now sold and the workshop moved over here, so I have the Warco and the genuine S7 here, as well as a more recently acquired Warco GH1330 for bigger stuff.
The real S7 will go eventually, it's a bit worn and was originally painted in blue Hammerite, which I've now scraped off, and bought a tin of grey paint.
The cabinet will have to stay blue for the time being.

Bill

Sorry Bill,

Didn't see this on the next page!

I dismantled the spindle to check the bearings as I realised I hadn't lubricated it for a very long time. I was rather amazed to find the taper rollers in fairly good condition with minor signs of wear and still grease in them.

I replaced the bearings with the same make and number which was ridiculously cheap and cleaned it all up and put it back together. I haven't re greased the bearings yet as I am nervous about overdoing it and getting grease everywhere. The minor irritation is the lack of any flats or similar on the threaded collar to adjust the spindle bearings. I wasn't sure whether or not to put a pre load on them. In the end, I just set them up with no play but no pre-load. Seems ok.

I did find that the gearbox had been greased rather than oiled but all seems to be in good condition. I have cleaned out all the grease and keep the box topped up and pump oil into the grease nipples now. It will be interesting to see if it is better.

I haven't stripped the saddle yet so have no idea what has been used for lubricating that. I suspect it is full of grease though.

I agree about the clutch. A bit scary and I haven't relied on it. I will try your idea and see if it is better.

The other thin about it is the feed lever on the saddle. Mine has a spring and a clip to stop it dropping into gear and engaging the drive. It really does do that and it is scary.

I saw the grub screw through the collar on the cross slide goes onto the thread and I can't get it off at the moment due to damage to the thread. It is all on hold a bit at the moment as I can't get the imperial nut (mine is brass or bronze and quite worn) as Myford are closed due to the virus. A chap has a nut and lead screw on ebay but it is over £120 and metric which I don't really want.
Does yours have roll pins at an angle locating the cross slide lead screw bracket? I managed to get it off but don't see how you are supposed to without forcing it which is what I did. To put it back, I will get them out and fit the bracket and tap them in again.

I saw a neat mod for it using thrust roller bearings on either side of the bracket to eliminate back lash but also allow free movement without drag. I might do that when I rebuild it. Also need the washer between the lead screw handle and the micrometer dial. Currently it locks it up when you tighten the handle.

I bought mine about 30 years ago when my workplace replaced the Warco with a genuine Super 7. It had been fairly abused for a few years by the workshop before I got it but it is still pretty good. I only paid £75 for it! I have finally decided to rebuild the bits that needed it.

Thanks for the info.

Richard.