Parting tool for ML7

Hi Grotto

JB Cutting tools do an indexable parting blade and holder to suit QCTP for front use, I've parted off 2"+ bars of Mild, Stainless, cast, alli and brass no probs with a bit of WD40 as a lube on my ML7, guess I'm just lucky, I have also found in the past that the thumb screw height adjustment part of the QCTP tool holders didn't allow for extreme lowering or extreme highering of the cut centre so I made new ones to accommodate and have even shaved 5mm off the corner of a spare ML10 top slide to get the holders low enough to centre them on my ML10.

I've found in my experience that firm continuous controlled infeed makes a better cooler cut rather than gradually sneaking the parting tool through, it's also worth noting that I have reground the carbide inserts and got a sharper cleaner cut from that of the un-ground new ones.

info which may be worthless to many but invaluable to a few should always be free, ignore it or try it enjoy

I bought a cheap chronos rear toolpost for parting on my ML7 as others have suggested. Although I have a short cross-slide it's the work of a moment to mount and demount it when it's needed when working larger stock.

This means parting is painless and trouble free.

I also modified the blade mount to take narrower blades which work even better IMHO - For more details see here...

**LINK**

I've never needed the larger blade since I made the mod but I still have it in case

HTH

Jon

When I had a ML7, I made a Rear Toolpost. With the toolholder mounted inverted, it functioned very well.

The tool now lives in the shop made 4 way RTP (along with front and back chamfer tools) on my current lathe, and despite being deliberately ground at an angle, very rarely causes problems.

Also, a 2mm Garmin parting tool, from JB Cutting Tools, is used occasionally, in the front toolpost. This has a V groove form, and swarf does not jam up, and again, very rarely digs in. Being Carbide, the tips do not like interrupted cuts, and chip. Nevertheless; highly recommended.

Even if you have to remove it for most use, my advice is to buy/make a Rear Tool Post .

As already said, maintain a steady, slow infeed, to prevent the tool from rubbing.

Additionally, for large diameter ( 12mm +) bar, I nearly always rig a gravity drip feed of soluble or neat oil onto the blade.

Some of this may help.

Howard