Member postings for speelwerk

In not to near future it is perhaps easier for UK citizens to have hoiday in the US. Niko.

A little of topic but today I blued several small parts but two M1.7 mm screws which came from package which I bought did not colour. I replaced them with new ones I made from silversteel and that of course coloured without problems. Any idea what steel the others are made from, perhaps stainless? Niko.

For clock parts it is not necessary to work at 0.01 mm accuracy. Clocks are driven one way and normally 0.10 mm is more than accurate enough. Niko

Edited By speelwerk on 24/07/2019 15:21:44

Andrew, Your posts are always interesting to read, I sincerely hope you will continue, Niko.

Fraises & Outils SELECTION SA, Zwitserland, https://guye-outils.ch/presentation.php?lang=en  nr. 500.0121705 has a diameter of 12 mm but thickness of 1.70 mm. They probably will alter the thickness for you if you ask but will be costly. Alternatively you can clamp a thickness of 1.00 and 0.55 mm together, it will create a wobble but not much because of the small diameter, probably around 0.02 mm. But you have to try first to determen if it is OK. Niko.

Edited By speelwerk on 30/06/2019 00:19:45

Edited By speelwerk on 30/06/2019 00:20:30

It is the wrong way of doing it but in 40+ years the backgear on the lathe I have is still fine with no damaged to the teeth. Several small taps is better than one big blow with a hammer. Niko.

Edited By speelwerk on 24/06/2019 10:28:48

The CI must be as clean as possible, I sandblasted it first the few times I have done it. Niko.

I have no problems using oil to harden parts made from gauge plate but they are very small in size. Larger parts gave problems when using the same size container filled with oil. You need a good size container for quenching in oil, better larger than smaller, otherwise you cannot get rid of the heat fast enough. Niko.

When diameters get small it can be handier to make a male centre on the arbor end. A female centre in the tailstock is quickly made with a piece of brass in a drillchuck and centredrill held in the headstock chuck/collet. Niko.

You can use a carbide drill, like these**LINK**

Niko

Perhaps this one is cheaper. Niko

**LINK**

Carbon black works fine to colour epoxy resin, if you do not have you just crush some Norit tablets. Niko.

For me the easiest way to controlled temper is the flame of a spirit burner with just enough heat to the reach temperture and the object inbedded in a tray with brass filings. Niko.

When the oven fails I still have a industrial one as back-up, go's to 900C, probably high enough for the turkey. Niko.

No doubt it will differ from drill to drill but I have the impression that with these smaller sizes, if you first use a drill 0.1 mm undersize and than finish with the size you actually want, it gives you a hole diameter closer to the nominal. Niko.

Axminster writes:

"The aluminium oxide has no effect on the diamond surface itself, except to restore its free-cutting action."

and I read that as it only cleans and does not true.

As Nick writes, best seems to be to true the aluminium relative to the diamond, but you have to be careful not to damage the diamond face if you clamp the grinding wheel. Niko.

Is it not possible to make the cross piece fit the slot, that way the diameter of the saw is not critical. Niko.

Edited By speelwerk on 15/10/2018 00:33:48

Arntz **LINK**have a good metric range of small slitting saws, it is a German based compagny but curiously only the Dutch and the US agents have the small ones. The direct link does not work, you find it by; Circular Saw Blades - Metal Circular Saw Blades and then at the end of the page you go to DIN 1837-1838. The 2 mm thickness will probably make a slit around 0.02 mm wider. If you clamp two of 1 mm together it will be less accurate and very close to your desire and if you want it a little wider you can clamp a shim from 0.02 mm or more in between. Niko.

Edited By speelwerk on 10/10/2018 22:02:32

Very nice to use but not cheap, **LINK**

Niko.