Member postings for chris j

Chris, Wolfies grinding rest was machined and I can see he has not surface finished it to remove machining marks !

Now, you say your steel isnt black like cast iron, but not bright either. To give a bright surface you need to dress the surface with a file at first and then get some chalk and rub it into the file teeth and it will cut finer and give you a good surface. You will be able to remove even the file marks !

If you need to go further, then get some 'Wet and Dry' paper, grade 150, and a block of wood that is flat and wrap the paper around the block and get polishing, if you want a further finer surface then get some bees wax and rub that onto the paper and it will give a superior finish.

Other than that you will have to surface grind the metal !

Let us know how you get on.

Clive

Spit polish and elbow grease ! LOL

When I served my apprenticeship at the then British Steel Works (BSC Redcar), we were given lumps of black steel bar and told to make a drill angle grinding gauge - as per supplied drawings. They had to gleam like chrome.

I spent hours polishing this lump of rotten crappy metal with various grades of wet-n-dry, wire wool and polishing compounds until the required surface finish was achieved.

Now I would remove the worst with a file wet-n-dry and then put it on the buffing wheel, same end result.

I still use the same gauge today and it still has a reasonable finish, the effort put in all those (30+) years ago paid off, the surface is still in very good condition.

CB

If you want shiny, polish it up same with all metals.

Theres no chance that your arbour is tapped for a draw bar ? If it is use it, abit of threaded rod, a washer and nut, is all you need. Ian S C

Thanks H

230M07 & 080A15 as per your excellent book

With regard to material lists, I did, as you probably know, write for MEW over a period of just over 20 years. During this time I never provided material lists as it was not a practice of the magazine, though very occasionally an article would appear with one. Probably no more than ten over that time. Again, like you, a request for material lists would surface, but again contributions to Scribe a Line show that it has been infrequent. For my books I followed what I considered to be accepted practice in the magazine.

You mention that you would like a list as you are lazy, I am sure you meant this in jest. However, studying the drawings for any project is something that one must not be lazy about. One should study them in detail until one is confident that they are fully understood and knowing how the parts fit together. Also, looking for any obvious errors or omissions. I think my drawing stand up well in that respect but errors are not unknown.

During this very lengthy process, then adding a few minutes to jot down the materials required will be insignificant and help with the process, and, as Tony states, you should order your materials in longer lengths. In any case, you will probably have to often as you will not find a supplier who will, typically, sell you 55mm of 12mm diameter.

Harold

Hi Chris,

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 13/09/2012 21:51:08

Hi Chris, would you also like Harold to cut the material and deliver it to your house? Sorry if I am being a bit rude!

Best wishes,

Tony

Hi Chris,

First and third angle projections are explained here:

**LINK**

Neil