Member postings for I.M. OUTAHERE

Mine are definitely M2.5 x 0.45mm.

I see what you mean with trying to check it with a thread gauge!

I just removed one of the insert screws , measured the diameter (2.41mm) screwed a 2.5 x 0.45 mm tap in to the threaded hole with my fingers all he way in and it was a nice fit.

Edited By XD 351 on 22/10/2019 03:13:26

Just fired up fusion and was greeted with a pale orange bar across the top of the screen (similar to what you get when they want to tell you what is new in fusion after an update ) stating they are changing the tier system and to click on the get started message on the end .

i did this and they have now separated educational, start up , hobby use (aka non commercial or personal use)and professional from each other , it appears the first 3 levels are still free and i signed up for the hobby use as start up i believe requires some proof of usage and i can see this being charged for in the future . I think all AutoDesk has done is spread everything out so they can see who is using fusion and for what purpose .

One word of warning is to back up any files as some of the drawings/ models i had in the left column vanished but fortunately they were old and of no use to me know .

I have used a hot air gun to reflow electronic components so maybe you could use one to pre heat the bigger components ?

Many of the cheap packs will have the third and sometimes fourth terminal in place but nothing connected to it inside as they are copies of the packs used on older units from other manufacturers .

Maybe a way of repaying us for the torture they heaped-upon us with win8 😁.

If you dig deep enough into c/ drive you will find the basic operating system Core to be the same since xp all they have done is tart it up with mostly useless features and sell it of as a brand new OS .

I run my pc showing the desktop and not the start menu and i copy links to the desktop or toolbar for any of the apps that are on the start menu that i might use - not a fan of tiles or apps that constantly change info or images - i find them distracting . In a strange sort of way I’m setting it up so it is more like what i was used to with xp or win7.

Edited By XD 351 on 03/10/2019 18:50:02

I was simply inferring that neither were as good as XP - well I don’t think so anyway 😀

I wonder what the reaction of the general public would be if MS brought back that annoying little bike riding paper clip or the stupid dog 😫

Edited By XD 351 on 03/10/2019 02:02:35

Li-ion battery packs should have a an overcharge / discharge circuit built into the battery pack to protect the cells , i would take a look at both chargers to see if the orientation of the + and - terminals are the same as a charger with a lower voltage shouldn’t have done any damage but reversed polarity on the terminals may have killed the charge controller.

Probably the easiest fix is a new battery pack or a whole new driver kit .

Could it use a cork float on a spiral rod to drive a rotary indicator ? I know some old mowersand outboard motor fuel tanks used this system .

Edited By XD 351 on 01/10/2019 05:17:22

Now if you want to talk about an OS that should have been terminated at its inception cast your memory back to windows 2000 or ME now that was a horror story !

I went from that to XP to vista to win 8 ( until i killed my hard drive and had to replace it ) then installed win 7 .

I then build a new tower with i7 cpu ,ssd and as much ram as the board would take . I had a copy of win7 so thought i would install that as win 10 was only fairly new and i like to wait until the bugs get ironed out before upgrading , damned computer loaded win7 ok and i updated it then after all the updates were installed it spits out a message that win7 wont work with some of the features of the new cpu or chipset ( hyperthreading i think ) so the pc will never reach its full potential so i ended up with win 10 whether i wanted it or not .

It seems to me that microsoft tried to keep up with Android and IOS when they developed win8 with its apps and they have been trying to fix it ever since , win 10 to me seems nothing more than an amalgamation of win7&8 with a few tweaks to make it look different .

Speaking of updates - my ipad has had 3 or 4 OS updates in a week , it is now IOS 13 iirc and it is beginning to annoy me !

I will one day try linux and a few other operating systems , maybe running them on some of the new single board computers that are around these days - maybe !

I’m not sure if this was intentionally engineered into the design of centre drills but having that small extended hole in the bottom of a centre drilled hole gives a place to start a very small boring bar to true up or re cut a centre .

I think the guy on the Suburban tools youtube channel explained a few reasons for this extended hole in a video he made about lapping centres .

It could just be a matter of retracting the tailstock barrel faster than you are unscrewing the tap from the hole , i usually unlock the tailstock and let the tap drive it back as i wind the chuck over by hand -never do this under power or with really small taps ( less than 1/8 or 3mm) as they can break or strip the thread out if the tailstock is fairly hefty .

You may not be setting the morse taper into the tailstock barrel correctly - the way i was taught to do it was to clean both tapers to make sure there is no crud in the female taper and to remove any oil off both tapers then extend the tailstock barrel a little so the taper doesn’t bottom out on the ejector rod (which is usually the end of the tailstock feed screw ) then place the taper into the barrel until it just stops then retract it about 1/2 inch (13mm) and with a sharp flick of the wrist set the taper in .

You should take a look at the OX TOOLS channel on youtube ! Tom lipton has a serious sickness when it comes to hammers 😁

I would have suspected a set of taps from Aldi would have trouble cutting a thread in butter 😁

I use Sutton or P&N here in OZ but have used yamakawa(i think that is right ) and goliath (uk made) and was happy with these .

I think Jason used some of the ARC gear in one of his articles recently so they may be worth a look .

I remember when i was in high school and absolutely hooked on RC cars, i would peruse the few R/C magazines in the school library and marvel at some of the cars people had built -one was a 4wd chain driven twin motor jobby that I literally drooled the print off the pages ! Anyhow some 40yrs later i have restored , built ,made and raced a lot of cars - mostly on road but id play around with offroad stuff occasionally.

I would advise you to sit down with your son and figure out exactly what he wants to build as there are a few options that will require different skill sets .

So a list similar to this might get you both pointed in the right direction :

On road or offroad - remembering that an offroad car can drive on a road but an on road car will struggle if it has low ground clearance.

Electric or internal combustion engine - mostly governs your drive system and battery requirements and is governed by the size of the car - big cars need big motors and the line trimmer engine is perfect for big cars.

Suspension or a basic pan car - setting up and making suspension components adds to complexity and will require machinery, a pan car has no suspension and is a lot easier to make ( just for clarity i call a pan car a car that is made from a flat plate chassis , no suspension and no differential) some have different descriptions.

Physical size - 1/12 ,1/10,1/8 or 1/5 - bigger is easier to make but will cost a bit more for materials but you can use engines from old line trimmers to power it but you will need beefier servos to control it.

Radios - this is an area you don’t want to skimp on so don’t use those cheapie radios as they have a small transmission range and usually no failsafe features .

You used to be able to download a car set up guide from Hudy which explained in great detail how suspension geometry , shock settings and spring rates worked - the basic fundamentals are the same for a model car or a full sized vehicle - physics is physics - it doesn’t change .

Make up a simple pattern to give you a few ingots to machine the parts from and get it cast out of bronze .

Edited By XD 351 on 19/09/2019 00:32:31

.A few years back i was in the market for a new brush cutter and was trawling around on ebay to see if i could dig up a good deal , i found a local seller of Chinese made machinery that was selling what i wanted as well as putting the same machine up on auction with a starting bid of a dollar . I had a look at their ebay shop and noted down the buy now price and put a bid in that was $50 less than the buy now price , i lost that one as a few other bidders beat me but one was happy to pay a price that was higher than the buy now price from the ebay shop! I noted down the name of that bidder ( or what ebay didn’t cover up with an asterisk) and went on to the next auction with the same result and surprise surprise the highest bidder did exactly the same thing and had the same name so i thought three times a charm and placed another bid with the same result . All the other bidders must have been doing the same thing as me and placed a bid just shy of the buy now price except this one bidder which i now suspected as being the seller trying to bump up the price and catch out any unaware bidders who didn’t know there was a shop where they could just order the machine and pick it up . I reported this to ebay but never heard anything of it and in the end i just bought the brush cutter from their shop.

I have seen this behaviour before at live auctions where the people that work there start bidding to drive the price up so i avoid them these days and with ebay i look at something that interests me and think about what it’s real value is and what it is worth to me and that is what i bid , sometimes i win sometimes i loose !

One thing i detest about ebay is that they allow overseas sellers to state that the item is local stock when they are clearly based overseas , it becomes tiring to have to check every sellers real location and i would rather that they just tell the truth and say where the item really is located - at least with banggood i know it is coming out of somewhere in China and it will take a few weeks to get here!

I get this all the time especially with Arduino stuff , i can buy one from here in OZ for around $30 au for an Arduino nano clone from a local electronics supply store or pay $5 from China off ebay - only thing is i have to wait for it to get here but for the same $30 i get five units .

I have also been looking at an ESP32 board and they are also around $30 - $40 from the same local supplier but ebay and banggood both have them for $8 so i can understand where MG is coming from as it is not a few dollars difference its five times more expensive ! Sure i can understand a supplier having to pay freight and the need to make a quid etc etc but seriously do they need to mark it up that much ? I suspect they would be paying a couple of dollars each for them so if they need to be that greedy i’m happy to wait a few weeks for my stuff to come from China and the local guy can sit there watching their overpriced items collect dust .

A few years back i noticed a similar thing with my credit card and notified my bank , it turned out to be fraudulent and somehow through facebook which i have never used and never will.

The money was refunded by the bank ,that credit card cancelled and a new one issued ,.The teller asked me what i used my credit card for and i said to do my shopping and it was also linked to my paypal account -the teller explained to me that it was fraught with danger as you can have money withdrawn by fraudulent operators via things like paypal very easily .

They set up a debit account for me to use on paypal as it won’t pay money that isn’t in the account and if i know I’m going to make a purchase online i first transfer the required amount into that account and proceed .

I decided to check this one day and as they stated it wouldn’t let me transfer enough to overdraw the account - sorry funds unavailable was the message i got back when i tried .

Every time i use either paypal or my apple account i get bombarded by fraudulent emails saying my account has been locked or someone has accessed my account and please click on the link below to update your account details - seriously do they think I’m that stupid !

These days i use spray on automotive degreaser because it is cheap and can be hosed off , i used to use shellite all the time but now reserve this for small components - doubles up as a paint thinner on some paints if i get desperate !

I got away from kero as it stinks and irritates my skin if i happen to splash some on me which i usually manage to do .

The only time i use a three jaw these days is when i know i will be doing a lot of turning of hex bar otherwise i use a four jaw .