Member postings for I.M. OUTAHERE

I would say it is a typo so 1000mm will cost you 13.89 £

If L.C Mason can make a lathe out of angle iron I’m sure you can make a watch makers lathe !
I doubt a pg and hardened bed is necessary but if you want to go down that road you may want to search around for things like differential pinion gear shafts from cars or trucks or gearbox selector shafts etc - depending on the diameter and length you need.

And the lid on pandoras box just flung open 😂

A lot of the stuff i use is NOS off ebay - usually Sutton or P&N which are probably not available in the UK .

Ideally i look for HSS with 5% cobalt or M35 .
I can’t recall ever reading a bad word about the cutters from ARC and although I haven’t used one i would be more than happy to buy them based on Jasons recommendations.

If you want industrial grade tooling I’m sure Andrew can point you in the right direction but be prepared to dig deep into your pockets for that grade of tooling !

The way i set up my 4 jaw is to use the concentric rings machine into the front face of the chuck , if you get a rule and measure the diameter of these rings and note them down you will find it doesn’t take much thought to get the jaws close to the diameter of the piece you want to hold by lining up the jaws with these rings .

Another method is to measure the diameter of the chuck body and measure in from the outside diameter - chuck diameter minus workpiece diameter divided by 2 is your measurement from the outside diameter of the chuck to the inside if the jaw ( or outside if you are gripping internally ) .

I do have a design for a simple tool for this floating around in the back of my cranium - just got to find where i hid it !

Edited By XD 351 on 12/12/2019 17:39:01

Hi Michael,
Welcome to the club !

Although most won’t admit it many a model engineer has been caught out by hard spots in cast iron myself included !

I wouldn’t be too harsh on the cutters you have purchased as they may be perfectly ok for anything except cast iron and I don’t even think twice about using carbide on cast iron - HSS stays in drawer for this material !

I was luck when i built the Stuart score engine a few years back as the only hard spots were on one steam chest cover and only on one corner , a quick rub with an old blunt file picked that straight up and it was marked with a sharpie so i knew what to expect when i started machining it . I think it is good practice to give a chunk of unknown steel a rub with an old file just to ensure it is not hardened before you commit a good cutting tool to it !

Hi everyone or more correctly anyone who reads this

I picked these up for what i consider a reasonable outlay for some future engine projects .

The small block has a B cast on one side and 21 on the other ( seller states it is for a DB21 Diesel  ) I cannot find any reference to it anywhere and it stands about 2-1/2 inches (63mm)or so high .

The bigger block has no markings and stands at a guess around 3 inches or 75mm tall and has a much lower deck height in relationship to the exhaust port compared with the other block so i would say it is a glow engine block.

If anyone recognises them please let me know !

I have had a good look around on the internet and the old model engine news website but can’t find anything that looks remotely like them .

p.s sorry about the upside down images damned ipad seems to orientate them as it wishes !

Thanks .

Edited By XD 351 on 04/12/2019 04:46:45

Edited By XD 351 on 04/12/2019 04:49:54

Edited By JasonB on 04/12/2019 06:54:45

Microscopic galling on the thread surfaces and between the bolt head and parent metal ?

I bought a set of over and under reamers 1/8 to 1/2 and they are supposed to cut .001 inch under and .001 over - more like on on size and .002 over ! This will probably get better with use or at least i hope so !

Is it possible for you to make and use a toolmakers reamer ?

When everything else fails Loctite prevails ! I”m sure there is an advertising slogan in there somewhere 😀

+1 on that comment !
With the addition of a couple of angle plates or some stout angle bar you could use them as vertical clamps on the mill , bench or welding table

Bit of a bugger if you lose one half though 😁

Edited By XD 351 on 22/11/2019 01:50:33

Simples !

10-15 deg on everything except with a tool for brass or bronze as I don’t touch the top of the cutting tool so no side or back rake .

Easy way is to set up your grinder so the tool rest is at the centre height of the armature shaft then grind the end of a piece of square mild steel that is the same size as your tool bit , adjust the height to get the angle on the end something in the range i listed above and lock it down . You can grind 95% of the tool bits you will ever need at that setting and you will only need to fine tune the settings for something that is or can be problematic like stainless or copper .

Side cutting edge angle - I don’t bother as i just rotate the tool post around a little if i feel i need one but one thing to remember is that the angle between the front cutting edge and side cutting edge must be less than 90 deg so the trailing edge of the front cutting edge doesn’t rub -I usually just use the same clearance as the other edges as it is set up already on the grinder .

If you are into making clocks you will probably be machining brass most of the time and the most important thing with a tool for brass is that it has been honed to give a good smooth finish on the cutting edges and is razor sharp .

Sharpening tool bits or drill bits by hand isn’t difficult it is just a matter of understanding the technique and practicing it !

Hot legs ?

looking at this lathe I’m now wondering if it was made for Jake the peg !

That railway is a masterpiece !

Edited By XD 351 on 15/11/2019 01:50:28

Edited By XD 351 on 15/11/2019 01:51:26

That is as far as i got ! Click the pay now thingy and it spits back a message that we don’t deliver there or supply there .

I think i will go the auto renew so next time I don’t need to think about it ! It would be nice though if i could log into my account and check a box for auto renewal or uncheck it if i wanted to go back to manual renewal but it appears this can only be done when i fill out the subscription form and want to renew my subs .

With my internet security  account i can log in anytime i want and change this and they simply notify me  a few weeks before that my subscription will be automatically renewed on this date and this is how much that will be debited from my debit card  - super easy to manage and they even send me a message if my card is about to expire so i can update my details .

I think the biggest problem with cheque’s is that by the time they get to their destination the exchange rate has changed so what you send isn’t worth the same a week later !
What about Paypal or the like ? Surely that would have to be easier for us overseas subscribers ?

Edited By XD 351 on 15/11/2019 01:31:06

I think the tri scale callipers only give an approximation of the nearest fraction .

Yes a digital calliper or mic will convert inch to metric and visa versa but i have yet to see one that can give the sum of a series of fractions and then convert that to a decimal number !

I am currently working on an engine that all of the dimensions on the drawing are given in fractions so i have to first convert these to decimal then add them together to find the length of a part etc - Major PIA !

The app - Fractions calculator does this with ease and gives the decimal equivalent automatically .

The solution is simple - a calculator !

I use a fractions calculator on my ipad to add up dimensions on drawings that are given in fractions then convert it to decimal which alleviates headaches !

You may have to do a screen shot and save the image .

I think the reason they don’t show any external components except the pot is the pins X1-6 are configurable for many different inputs so they simply show them as switchable and as the switches shown are open this tells me a normally open Momentary contact switch that pulls the pin to ground to activate it . The pins for the pot are dedicated so they show that component with its value .

Noisy fans are a common issue with these inverters and i have seen one youtube video where they changed the fan - simple job one might think but he ended up having to disassemble the entire unit to get the fan out !

You could possibly disconnect the noisy unit and rig up some big pc case fans that come on with the mains power .

I think this manual is the same as Brians .

https://en.ppt-online.org/448529

The parameters you need to change are pretty straightforward:

P10 and P11 set the control input source - if you want to mount a controller box on the machine you set these to external.

P50-P55 set what the X1-X6 terminals do .

You shouldn’t have to change any other settings .

i have a set that are all over the place dimensionally making them useless as parallels , may as well use them as anvils !

So how many of you Bridgie owners use all the features ?

A Bridgeport is a toolmakers mill and not a heavy mill , yes it has some very useful abilities but they are things you will rarely use - like nodding the head etc.

You can get a Bridgeport clone for close to the same money that you will pay for a decent second hand Bridgeport but seriously do you really need all the features of a Bridgie ?

I prefer to set the workpiece up for angle milling or drilling as it is easier and doesn't require tramming the head afterwards .

I run a HM46 Hafco which i think there is a Chester equivalent and i have never felt the need for anything bigger .

I had a problem like this and found that the mounting surface for the column to base had some burrs and some gunk in there , after a clean my readings improved but were still not perfect .

I layed a thick parallel on its side across the table and re checked the front to rear tram and it was spot on so i think my table has a dip in the middle or the top of one t slot is a little low .

If i set up a test bar in the spindle (after i tram the head) i can move the head up and down on the column and get a zero reading on both the x and y axis along the z axis column travel so i know the column is perpendicular to the table in the x and y axis - you should also then get a zero on these axis using the quill feed .

This becomes even more tricky with the old tilting column X2 Sieg mills because you have a tilting column and a headstock made from two separate pieces which can also move .