Member postings for I.M. OUTAHERE

I am curious about the dark spot on the side of, R 23 and the track running out from under it to the transistor .

Is that dark spot a shadow or a char mark from a blown transistor and the track that runs to it looks like it has fried the protective lacquer .

If you cant find a direct replacement maybe take it to some one who knows how to repair it , some electronics / tv repair shops do odd jobs or fit a board from a different machine , as long as the replacement if of equal or higher watt rating and same voltage rating it may be possible to fit it to your machine .

If you think model engineering is expensive or not rewarding try target shooting ! Constantly paying for ammo , targets, fuel , accomodation etc etc then days or even weeks of preparation to lose a match because of a gust of wind !

Don't get me started on golf !

Microsoft car - a new version is released every 2 years that is even worse than the last and they discontinue support so you have to upgrade whether you like it or not !

Apple car - if it breaks down it has to go back to them to fix it as no one can afford the specialised tools to pull it apart and everytime there is an upgrade it takes a month for the various systems to talk to each other again !.

Samsung car - spontaneously combust when you plug it in to charge it !

Linux car - the one you buy just to be different to everyone else and because love tearing your hair out by the fist full trying to get it to work with anything useful !

No probs Michael i usually don't wake up until I'm on my second cup !

P.M me an address to send them to and i wil post them to you.

Ian.

Maybe a cover shot for the mag Neil ?

I use something similar ( although not as nicely made ) for my lathe and it can swivel around so i can swing it across and use it for my X2 mill . It wouldn't matter if it was as big as a dining room table i would still pile it full of tools -usually left there from the last operation ! I really must learn to put my toys away after playing with them.

Ian

Thank you to everyone for the replies.

I will try one in brass and see how they go , I don't see them getting used as I don't make clocks or anything really small .

In the same bag there is some three flute taps , some with a square end and a few are with a blank end like the flat sided taps pictured .

Ian

Edited By XD 351 on 17/09/2016 04:29:37

Caption,

We are gathered here today to join these two in holy matrimony !

Either that or he is reading that crane its last rights !

Oddly enough in a post about setting up a vee slot to align with a saw slot there was a mention of Hicky (icky) balls and as I'm not a toolmaker i know nothing of them so some explanation would be nice , it could also be an article on toolmakers buttons and how to use them .

CNC v Manual - i usually stay out of that argument as I don't own any CNC equipment, that being said i think both should have a regular monthly place in MEW and i think Neil has got the balance pretty much right .

I kind of like the cartoon like muddles and the stubb mandrel piece so maybe you could add a did you know or on this day in history section with interesting facts or useful formulae .

Dunno , i bought the allotment because it was mostly BA taps by the bag full - New and i believe English made .

The seller added some other stuff to the sale , some very small screws in BA size , can't remember exactly but i think 14 or 16 BA .

They were like a little screw the same diameter as a #80 drill , i had to get a magnifying glass out to see them !

I was thinking maybe something to do with clock / watch making ?

I sacrificed one and they do cut a thread in mild steel up to about 1/8 thick but any more than that jam .

For now until someone can correct me i will call them a spade tap !

Today i was rifling through some taps i purchased off ebay a while back and in one bag was a mixed allotment of 1/16 bsw taps , some are three flute with a sqare end for a tap wrench some are like a threaded piece of 1/16 rod with two parallel flats ground along the threaded portion to act as flutes and have no sqare on the end .

Any ideas ?

Ian.

G'day from western Sydney .

Looks like it has been looked after , can't see any damage from dropped chucks , a bit of elbow grease , a few drops of oil and i'm sure you will have a machine that will serve you well

Ian.

I wonder if heating up some moly grease until it melts and then soaking some twine in it and allowing it to cool would work ?

Probably the messiest thing on earth to play with though !

You can get tallow , it is what soap is made of , maybe the same thing could be done with this stuff as above but using graphite powder ?

kieth appleton on his youtube channel mentione he un picked some larger diameter graphite sealing material to get the thinner twine to use in model steam engines , i never followed it up but if you could get the right stuff cheap it may be worthwhile fiddling around un picking the strands .

The stuff in my stuart kit looks a lot like a piece of yo yo string with graphite in it .

Marc lecuyer gave a simple formula for this on his youtube channel ( that lazy machinist) it was in the series on drilling and reaming .

Don't be afraid to ask , Assume nothing and take the chuck key out of the chuck before hitting the on switch - they hurt when they hit you but hurt even more when they plough out a nice big chunk of your previously undamaged lathe bed !

Ian.

Edited By XD 351 on 12/09/2016 05:53:57

+ 1 for loctite .

Just about finished the stuart score engine and used loctite on it and was easy to do .

I still pinned the crank webs to the crankshaft but didn't bother with the big ends , loctite by itself would be more than strong enough but i liked the added security of pins .

Just make sure everything is super clean before you put the loctite on , nice brite steel so a qiuck polish with some scotch brite and then i used acetone to clean everything up.

I have heard of people using liquid paper to mask areas that they don't want silver solder to flow to but i have never tried it so can't say it does,or doesn't work.

It's good to see some creators can mix genuine machining content with a little humour .

I can't stand it when they just want to stand in front of a camera and jibber about their life .

Last night i watched a few videos from metal tips and tricks and he made a video explaining the nomenclature of various carbide inserts for turning , He had a guy on there who is a sales / technical advisor for Seco

They had a Seco catalogue to show what the numbers and letters mean but the video does get a little fuzzy at times .You can gett various apps from kyocera , sandvik etc from the app store that show the same stuff as the Seco catalogue- wouldn't be surprised if they have an app also.

If we start worrying about cost effectiveness of our workshops we will be doomed!

Think or the many thousands of dollars in machinery and materials we buy just to make various models whether they be a simple wobbler engine or a loco you would never get your money back let alone make a profit !

What we do get is enjoyment .

Try bunnings or supercheap auto if you have them in NZ.

I think Bunnings and supercheap sell it as briggs and stratton oil or small engine oil , i used it for my air compressor as that was what pilot specified .

Ian.

I use chain bar oil for everything except the back gears - not because it is no good i just found something better - tac 2 spray lube or motorcycle chian lube .

both are designed to stick to what ever you spray it on and not fling off everywhere and you only need the tiniest amount - just a little squirt is enough .

Ian

Now that is pushing a 1/4 inch endmill to the limit !

Bill i use insert tooling on my C2 seig and my hafco AL50g lathes and have never had a problem , your old Hercus is a better machine than either of those !