Member postings for I.M. OUTAHERE

The load on an impellor pump increases until cavitation occurs , if power is so low that cavitation cannot occur the vortex inside the pump can collapse causing flooding of the impeller and it will stall or load up or become a propellor instead of an impellor and this gives the same sort of current draw a pump would have on start up but it is continuos .

Ian

Edited By XD 351 on 23/06/2017 14:31:28

For what its worth you can buy a switchmode power supply that will do the job off ebay cheaper than a pc power supply .

If you have some experience with electronics you could pick up something from a computer shop or off the side of the road that is still working and check it over yourself , look for bulgeing capacitors and clean the dust out .

They are fairly robust items

Neill,

I can't tell you what you should do but i can let you in on a few lessons i have learnt with cars:

You can't polish a turd ( well if you can post it to the centre of the earth and wait a few million years you theoretically could ) so if it has big mileage what is next to go ?

Unless you can work on them yourself and enjoy doing it older cars are going to hurt your bank balance big time , i'm fortunate that i can do everything for myself so labour is zero but now i have purchased a brand new car i have seen a different side to things - warranty is a wonderful thing !

Don't think of tomorrow , next week or next year think of the next five years as that is a good general time frame that many use to pay off a new car - so is the hunk o junk gunna be around five years from now ?

Hit MTM up for a company car ! Worth a try at least !

Ian

You may be forcing the pump to push too much head or lift so it is under full load all the time , restricting the outlet pipewirk diameter will do the same .

Disconnect the outlet on the pump then let it run and see if the temps on the transformer drop .

The uv lamp may be shorted causing more current draw than usual ?

If all else fails upgrade he power supply to somehing that can put out more power .

Have a look at your transformer it should have a rating of at least 1.5 amps preferably 2 amps or more .

V X A = W (12x1.25 =15 w ) you state your pump is 10w and the light 5 w = 15w but one really never knows exactly how much power a pump will pull under full load ( unless you tested it ) a factor of X1.5 of the expected maximum is what i use as a minimum.

I'm sure there will be an electronics / electrical engineer who will come along shortly that will want to correct me for things like RMS or delve into power factors and electrical losses in cables etc etc etc .

Ian

You don't need to go outback to find car swallowing potholes , the middle of Sydney has what I call goat tracks for roads and some truly spine breaking potholes !

Ian.

Yep or crook pressure springs seized throwout bearing ( seized to input shaft ) at least it sounds like the geabox and diff assembly is ok .

40k out of a new clutch is a bit on the lean side for my liking but i did have a reconditioned unit fail about 10 miles into its life ,some of the fingers that lift the pressure plate broke so when the pedal was pushed down it didn't lift the pressure plate evenly causing it to drag on the friction plate making gear changee impossible and you had to shut the engine down to even get it into gear . Never bought a reco clutch again !

Ian.

Hi Neil,

So just to be 100% clear in top gear you can still turn the wheel over more than one turn with x amount of resistance or drag and in first gear you can still do it but the drag is greatly increased ?

Did you try neutral ? Drag should obviously be minimal but there will be some drag as you are still turning the constant mesh gears ove in the box .

I'm also curious as ti whether you have tried to start the engine agian after you stopped it ?

I have seen some weird things over the years , friction plate hubs shearing off , broken cranks , seized throwout arms , seized slave cylinders and clutch pressure springs collapsing - the list goes on !

Ian.

If this occured when you were changing gears it is possible it is stuck in neutral .

I would jack up one wheel ( leave one on the ground ) and put the car in top gear with the engine off , try spinning the raised wheel and and check for any sort of resistance if it freewheels with absolutely no resistance the problem lies in the diff or secondary drive section of the gearbox or the linkage / cable from the gear lever is broken and it is stuck in neutral.

If there is some resistance try it in different gears and neutral - look for the amount of resistance to change with the varying gear ratios . If there is no change between gears something has let go in the box .

If the resistance changes with the gear change and increases as you go down to a lower gear then you have issues with the clutch or input stage of the box .

As you heard no horrfic noises my bet would be gear lever linkage or cable , when selecting a gear does it feel exactly the same as it did before ? Has the lever gone sloppy ?

Ian

Edited By XD 351 on 20/06/2017 15:03:34

I have a nice carbide spotting drill , split point geometry , well that was until i dropped it on the concrete floor chipping the point 😭 .

While i'm here and as i will eventually get around to fixing that spotting drill i am interested in everyones thoughts as to the type of grind i put on it with my T&C .

Split point ?

Four facet ?

Ian.

Youtube - tinkerjohn .

He has just started a series on these engines .

It may help to know where you are in regards to recommending a supplier for the gears .

Ian.

I would have it set up as per the top picture .

I feel your problem has more to do with the drive pulley ratio , i would be looking at something like 4:1 or 5:1  and some sort of decompressor valve on the pump so you are not trying to start the engine under load 

Ian 

Edited By XD 351 on 17/06/2017 00:30:14

I found the problem with my mini lathe was the drive key was binding in the key slot in the gear.

If the bosses are those horrible die cast ones that the key is integral with the boss you may need to fettle them as well , my other lathe has these and they were all different sizes by a couple of thou and one had a mushroomed end .

You will find an expanding reamer will jam up in the bore because it has straight blades that will catch on the key slot , a spiral flut cutter will work better

Ian.

Maybe dunk them in metho after using brake cleaner ?

I have used that after using rust converter which needs to be wiped over wth a wet rag to clean off on car panels as it pulls the moisture away from the steel .

That reminds me i need to recharge my moisture absorbent units !

Ian

It would be nice if when i visit this website to view my magazine subscriptions the website gave me an option to download a pdf as well as just reading it off the website .

As far as i'm concerned i have paid for it so i should have the option of downloading a pdf then printing it myself and a few other publications i have seen offer this .

I can understand MTM not wanting someone downloading every issue in the archive for free to some extent but i have seen other publications offer these at a highly discounted price .

I have had the pocket mags app on my ipad play all sorts of tricks on me especially after an update , it wo'nt let me restore purchases for a week or two then only half of what i had on there restore .

Not a real problem as i know i can read what i want off thiis website , just more of an annoyance than anything else .

Ian.

👍 Clive !

Couldn't have said it better myself .

A few errors here and there just adds character to the magazine and reminds me of the fact that MEW is a magazine that is edited by a fellow model engineer not a professional editorial team .

Ian .

Edited By XD 351 on 11/06/2017 07:03:43

lHi Raymond,

Just out of curiousity have you had a look around on your hard drive to see where the downloaded magazine files are located ?

If you can find the files and try to open them windows will either do so or say it is unable to do so , sometimes it will offer to check online to find a programme that will open them .

it could be a simple thing like the newer version of the app has had its link or association with the old files broken so it doesn't know they are on your hard drive , if you can find the files maybe a rigth click and look for open with ... And give that a try .

Provided you stay out of the registry files and don't delete or format anything there is little harm you can do .

Just a thought .

Ian

Could also be a crook plug , blocked carby or stale fuel .

I usually head for the plug first to see if it is wet or dry looking , if it is dry the carby gets a visit and if it looks wet i check over the ignition system .

Ring 2 is the top ring and the groove faces the top of the piston .

Ring 1 is the second ring and the groove faces the oil ring

Ian.

I wonder how long it will be before they pull the support on ios9 ? Oh well i'm due to upgrade my trusty old ipad soon as it doesn't support ios 10 and i would say Apple is not going to issue any security updates for ios 9 anymore .

I had to upgrade to win10 as i built a new pc with a 7th gen processor and win7 is not really supported for the new cpu . Microsoft will drop all support for win7 eventually anyhow .

Ian.

The idea with having a regulator which is usually mounted to the machine with a bracket is so you can set it up for the optimal pressure for the plasma cutter and leave the regulator on your compressor set to what you use around the shop , it just saves the hassle of changing regulator settings all the time .

I have a little cardboard slide rule type reference guide from Boc that i have found useful for setting up my tig , you may be able to get one where you are or from ebay .