Member postings for I.M. OUTAHERE

You also have two transistors on there and i would guess one is to switch the solenoid on so check them also , are any of the leds lighting up or changing state when you enter the code ? 

If you have a search on the net for the data sheet for the chip so you can check the pinouts to find the power and ground pin and check to see if it is getting power .

Whats the other side of the board look like ? Have you checked for dodgy solder joints or damaged tracks ? 

The black connector looks deformed , it looks like it is bulging in the middle if it is maybe a crook connection there ?  

If all else fails you could swap that board with an arduino and connect up the keyboard to it , there are plenty of code lock projects on the internet .

Edited By XD 351 on 04/08/2018 00:24:26

Do you have the X axis locks applied ! If not try it and if the problem dissapears or lessens your table may be bowed on one side .

The next step is to determine where the problem lies , is it the table and / or the X axis slideway out of kilter or is the Y axis slideway the issue ?

If the table is just a bad grind - thicker on one side than the other you could get it re ground at a reasonable cost .

I have heard of some machinist doing a fix themselves by using a face mill to re machine the top of the table .

Bryan , the reason why you have not recieved a lot of replies stating that they used X chemical to fee up stuck rings and it worked perfectly is probably because it would not be a conventional repair or cure to the problem .

You have no way of knowing " how " stuck they are and what is causing them to stick - is it old dried up oil ? Possibly , is it varnish build up ? Possibly or is it carbon build up ? Once again possibly or are the rings broken ? Possibly and no amount of soaking with any chemical known to man will fix that !

The reason i recommended a leakdown test is to definately confirm what is leaking before you go tipping stuff down the injector hole which may or may not work anyway . Anything that can disolve what ever is causing the stuck rings will remove all of the oil film between the cylinder and piston which could cause scoring on start up until the oil works its way back in there . If you were worried about using a starter spray because it washes away the lubricant , wouldn't you be more worried about what you use to try to free up the rings ? Long before i would even consider using something to disolve the gunk would take the head off and slowly warm the piston up with an lpg blowtorch , just hot enough so if i spit on it the spit starts to sizzle . You could then try some hot ATF ( yes hot ! Warm it up in a tin with the blowtorch applied to the bottom of the tin until it starts to smoke ) in there and let it soak overnight . At least that way you are using something with a lubricant not a solvent or corrosive .

You mentioned in your pm that the engine probably stopped at TDC - this is unlikely but not impossible , with the mass of the flywheel and generator rotor it would tick past tdc and keep rotating until it hit the next major resistance - the compression stroke , it would have bounced back a little -maybe back far enough to hit the bottom of the power stroke and could have stopped anywhere in-between , in-between those two extremes both valves have opening and closing events where the valve springs are compressed . This was a real problem with engines like briggs and stratton that had little short mufflers as the exhaust valve would sit there open and condensation would set in rusting the valve face and seat especiall if stored over winter like this -if i only had a dollar for every time i have seen that !

Have you bled the injector line up to the injector ? Even the smallest air bubble in the system from the pump up to the injector will stop it running . One way of testing is to make up an air fitting that fits in the injector hole and set the engine at tdc on the compression stroke . You will need to use something to lock the engine at tdc , i use a length of angle iron bolted to the flywheel ( use the puller holes if it has them ) DON'T try to hold it by hand you WILL get hurt - don't ask how but i just know ! . If you then pressurise the cylinder with compressed air and listen for either serious blow by past the piston ( i take the filler plug out and listen to what comes out of it ) There will be some leakage - a very slight hissing is ok but if air gushes out you have problems ! And for valve leakage by listening to the exhaust and inlet ports ( should be no leakage at all ) you can at least determine what is leaking .

This is the same basic procedure of doing a leakdown test on an engine except you have no gauge to tell you the rate of leakdown in % .

On two stroke engines i have used some engine oil squirted in through the plug hole to help seal up some very old worn rings , once running the speed at which the piston travells doesnt give time for gas to leak as much . If you try this with a diesel be very sparing on the oil or you risk a hydraulic lock up if you whack too much in .

Did you check the valve lash ?  Were the valves nice and free in the guides ? What condition are the valve springs in ? If it sat for a long time with a valve open the sping may have  collapsed / lost its rated pressure . 

How bad was were the valves and seats ?  Lapping may have not been enough and getting them re cut may be required .  Lastly have you checked to ensure there is no compression leakage into the water jacket ? 

The injector pump may be pumping a small amount when you turn the engine over but at what pressure ? 

If you have tried one of the various starting sprays and it still won't fire that negates a fuel issue and only leaves compression and cam timing   .

Edited By XD 351 on 02/08/2018 02:40:13

Edited By XD 351 on 02/08/2018 02:50:11

I think the gunk on it is what is left of a wax coating and once you clean that off it will be fine . Bog standard r/h hand reamer , i think the reason for the spiral running that way is so it doesnt pull itself into the hole like a thread .

Excellent ! I would have no hope of doing anything like that here in Sydney ! Too many lights and too much smog .

The article,mentioned the dust storm , Nasa is also waiting for it to end so hopefully the rover they have up there will boot up out of hibernation .

I was watching a documentary about one of the earlier rovers - that little buggy just wouldn't die ! It got to the stage it had lost drive on troo of its six wheels and they hit soft ground and bogged it for the sixth time , unfortunately that was the end of that little machine . Amazing engineering and incredible problem solving abillities in the team that built and drove it .

So are you all going to be looking at Mars in the next week or so ? , I read today that it is the closest to earth that it has been in 15 years .

It could also be the composition of the steel you are cutting , " mild steel " could be anything and if it was just a chunk of black steel lying around the workshop it could be some form of alloy steel . I sometimes pick up some scrap from work that comes off the lifting arms of a garbage truck , 25 - 30 mm thick and around 100mm wide with a mill scale finish . This stuff is not the best to machine but hey its free ! I just use carbide tooling and have at it , the chips are always blue or purple and my biggest concern is making sure the chips are not flying at me ! Try slowing your cutter down a couple f hundres rpm , maybe some brush on cutting fluid and see how that goes - you won't kill a cutter by running it slow provided it is feeding fast enough to make it cut and not rub .

On some designs you can also hold round HSS to do a large corner radius . I usuall put a small radius on the square tool so when i cut up to a shoulder it leaves a small radius in the corner .

Also a good idea to check that both blocks measure the same , i have a set where one block is a few thou under on one dimension which makes them useless as parallels !

I will have a wild guess as well , something off of some sort of projector ? The iris could be use to controll the amount of light emmited and the micrometer head used to adjust something with crosshairs or similar .

Micrometer head looks to be calibrated in metric and in reverse to what a normal mic would have .

I have one of those cleaners and mine has 6 transducers controlled by three driver boards , i never really checked that all of the transducers were working when new but after a few uses i noticed a real drop in cleaning performance .

I took it apart to find two of the driver boards has died for some unknown reasom and both had destroyed the exact same components , i repaired these and changed the same components on the board that was still working and have had no issue since . The performance was better than when new so i would guess that at least one of the boards had failed in the first run .

Welcome too the loony bin Jeff !

If you dig deep enough you will find subjects covering everything from astronomy ( yeah i got it right this time ! ) to zoology and everything in between so i don't see why boat / yacht restoration can't be discussed if it hasn't already .

Don't forget to post some pics of your yacht and some of the things you are working on !

Ian.

There are also a few apps for your phone / tablet like FSWizard etc .

If you are using metric you just subtract the thread pitch from the thread diameter and that will be the tappiing drill size required ( 6mm dia and 1mm pitch = 6 - 1 = 5 so use a 5 mm drill ) .

I was taught that the female thread is cut to full size ( 1/4 in your case) by a tap but the tapping drill is selected to drill slightly oversize hole thus giving a truncated thread root ( sounds sexy eh ? ) the male thread is cut slightly undersize giving a truncated thread crown and this stops the thread binding up on either the crown or root , the thread will engauge on the thread flanks so adjusting the die to give a nice fit in the tapped hole will mean the two threads will run together smoothly . 75 % thread engagement is the usual but i have seen less work with no problem .

If the rod is a couple of thou under it won't hurt a thing - unless you are working for NASA building space probes !

Grind you down by Machinehead .

If the inching valve sort of works in forward but not at all in reverse that would indicate to me that the issue is the transmission and not the inching valve .

Forward and reverse in an auto trans is selected by directing hydraulic pressure to either of the two clutch packs or possibly a band inside the transmission and as you unit is only single speed the clutch packs / band for 2nd and 3rd may not be installed .

If the only way you can stop it once you have released the pedal is to seleect neutral it would suggest the toque converter or fluid flywheel is seized and you are trying to use the inching pedal to disconnect the drive and the fact that it goes into reverse and takes off would indicate this . The reason that putting in neutral sort of resets this is because hydraulic pressure is used to drive the clutch pistons back out releasing the pressure on the clutch pack , it also is used to move the spool valves back and forth in the metering block. If it is slamming into gear there are dampening pistons in the metering block that when the hydraulic pressure is applied to the clutch pack these pistons are forced into thier cylinder against spring pressure taking the shock loading out of the system so they could be seized . While the internals of the older transmissions are not overly complicated you have to know what you are doing especially with clearances and end float - too tight and it will bind up and the tinyest piece of dirt in the metering block where the spool valves run will at best cause them to stick - at worse it can score the valve or housing causing it to stick and this is usually throw it away time !

The last auto i rebuilt - a turbo 350 for a 4wd about 12 years ago was a learning experience ! I think i spent more time making tools to knock bushes in than i did putting the damned thing back together - after that experience i started using a reputable transmission shop .

The clutches in an auto are either engaged or free they don't operate like the clutch in a manual car so when you put an auto in drive the first gear pack will engage and the torque converter will slip and when you push the accelerator pedal the engine revs a little and causes the torque converter to apply a driving force from the motor to the transmission .

I would suggest you pull the transmission out and get it rebuilt by a transmission shop .

Edited By XD 351 on 25/07/2018 19:34:14

We have that now and machines that accept the containers but it has spawned another issue - bin scabs !

Some people have woken in the morning and gone to retieve thier recycle bin that was put out at the kerb to be collected but a bin scab has upended it during the night to dig out the containers that can be taken for a refund which is 10 cents a container . So all along that street were bins left dumped on the road and the garbo isn't going to clean it up !

That is why we recommended you talk to Ketan !

I don't think there are any other retailers that would recommend that you buy some other retailers machine because he believes it will suit you better ! Most will just feed you some bu****it and try to sell you the next size up in thier range .

I think your next move needs to be going and looking at the makes & models you have indicated that you are interested in - leave your credit / bank card or cheque book at home for now !

I tend to treat the process like buying an old car - look around on the internet for as much info as i can then go and have a look at a few - used car dealers are good for this as they usually have some rough ones to look at for rust etc.

Once i know what i'm looking for and at the hunt is on !

Usually i would recommend you go as big as you can but as you have a weight restriction you are going to be limited to machines that stay below that .

I wouldn't worry about a DRO unless you can swing a deal with the retailer , also keep a look out for Model engineering exhibitions and the like as some retailes have special deals on at those times .

Remember a lathe or mill is a costly investment so don't rush into it !

Not sure if these were ever commercially available - maybe as country and western ? but two songs from Clint Eastwood movies :

You turn me every which way but loose and you turn me any which way you can .

If you are into making your own boilers - Pressure down by John Farnham .

One for those surface grinder junkies out there - Chained to the wheel by the black sorrows .

One for those who are always being asked to do foreign orders or love jobs - DIrty deeds done dirt cheap - AC/DC

Finally one for the Blacksmiths and Welders - Hot stuff by Donna Summers .

Some days i feel that playing the song Ship of Fools by World party would be more appropriate in my workshop 😫

When i was younger sometimes some mates would come around and once i had grown tired of thier shenanigans and wanted them to leave i would dig out my mothers Burl Ives record and play pearly shells at full volume ! I can confirm that it had a 100% success rate !