Member postings for I.M. OUTAHERE

I think there should be a global law that all devices that can look at us , hear us or track your browsing history or location should have these abilities disabled at the manufacturing stage and they can only be enabled by the user with a password access should they wish to use that feature . I detest having to go through the settings of my various to turn all this stuff off ! Google is the biggest offender and i recently found out that my ipad was keeping tabs on my recent locations so Google could send me ads for shops in those locations - that got turned off and the history cleared immediately after finding out about that !

I noticed that the ads from Ebay and Banggood also seem to be focused on my browsing history or recently viewed items so they now get cleared after a browsing session .

After watching this video **LINK**

it would appear to me you may be missing the distance piece he describes in the video

If i were to assemble it i would feed the locking shaft into the lower flexi arm from the left side , lining up the notch with the end of the locking rod then fit the distance piece from the right side followed by the large friction washer followed by the upper flexi arm then feed the short locking piece from the right side of the upper arm aligning the notch with the upper arm lock rod followed by the thrust washer and lock nut .

I tried to disassemble my one but couldn’t work out how it came apart but after watching the video and now knowing about the circlip i might give it another go !

Just a quick update :

I have changed the power supply out for one with no fan and the power usage went from 20 w down to a current draw of 0.09 amps when idle @ 12 v or 1.08 w . It appears that it used approximately 0.2 KWh over a 48hr period or around 1.5 cents a day .

Enough of the power thing for now - it is time to move on to efficiency and maximising that so now i need to seal it off properly .

Another was Faraday , without him Tesla and Edison couldn’t exist IMHO!

I saw this i a documentary about Edison , Tesla and Westinghouse many years ago - iirc it was something like the men who powered America or something along those lines .

Warning the following youtube video may distress some viewers !

**LINK**

I think he killed a few Elephants as well - in real life that is ! 

I think his intelligence was only like  a speck of dust compared to Tesla .

Edited By XD 351 on 30/07/2019 20:43:14

This old Tony , marc lecuyer ( that lazy machinist ), clickspring and i could go on and on and on !

one tip is to look on the channel you are viewing and check to see who they are subscribed to if they are allowing you to check - thats how i found most of the channels i watch.. One guy i have been waiting for to come back to making videos is mr crispin .

Don’t forget our very own youtube mega stars Stubb mandrel , Mrjasonsb and home metalworking workshop (Harold Hall).

I find it odd that the issue is still present on different bands and only on one radio , are any of the radios the same brand and model ? Does the offending radio do the same if you change bands and frequencies? Does the interference change pitch in tune with the vfd setting?

I’m asking this because i am curious as to where the signal is getting into the receiver , if you can tune it out it is via the antenna / tuning circuit and if not maybe via the IF or audio sections that may not be screened properly .

Either way you are producing some EMI which needs to be addressed .

I had a problem recently with a couple of dab radios , every time i would turn on my switchmode power supply they would go insane if they were any closer than a few metres away from it .

It is hard to compare yours V mine as the circumstances are vastly different .

The cost of energy. In Australia is horrific and I don’t know what it is like where you are .

At todays conversion rate 4p = approx 7cents AU.

I’m using 0.4 KWh a day so 0.0167 KWh an hour or 2.8KWh a week = 27 cents a week or 15p in your money .Yours is 0.375KWh an hour and at 4 hrs a day = 1.5KWh a day or 10.5KWh a week =28p in your money .

The volume of the area under the covers ( at a guess ) would be no more than 0.07cubic metres .

I’m averaging 1- 1-1/2tablespoons a night from this area so 20 - 30 ml a night so if i divide 20 ml by 24 hrs i get 0.8333 ml an hour from 0.07 cubic metres .

If i work out your work space at 10 sq metres x 2 metres hight we get 50 cubic and divide that by 3 to allow for the contents we get 16.6 cubic and 250ml an hour from this . If we we divide 16.6 by 0.07 = 237. Now 250 ml divided by 237 = 1.054 ml an hour from your unit in an area equivalent to mine so not a lot of difference .

I don’t know how long my unit is actually running per night and i suspect that most of the electricity usage is from the power supply fan .

It is almost impossible to do a comparison as there are so many variables like climate , cost of energy , workshop size and construction and the fact my unit only runs when it is needed so i can set it and forget it .

One really bizarre thing is the lighter constructed machines like my drill press don’t suffer condensation issues , i have been out to the workshop to discover my lathe and mill dripping wet but the drill press which is no more than 10 feet away is bone dry ! That is another factor that makes comparing yours V mine difficult as the rate at which my workshop heats up after sunrise is more than likely vastly different to yours and this is probably the main contributing factor in causing condensation to form only on the heavier machines .

M.G,

I will try the box idea that you mentioned but i will run the unit on manual to see how long it takes it to drop from a very high level of humidity , i should be able to set something up in my 100lt esky ( cooler ) by feeding the power cables in through the drain hole and seal them off with blutac or plasticine..

Ian.

Here are a few graphs from the two data loggers:

Humidity under the cover above and outside below , the vertical dotted lines are 48 hrs apart .

These are the ambient temperatures and as above the top one is from under the cover and the bottom one is outside .

Probably not the dramatic effect i was expecting but the wave form under the cover is a little more stable , i believe the sudden drop in humidity on the peaks of the top chart (almost like a saw tooth ) are from the dehumidifier running and this coincides with the highest humidity and lowest temperatures of each day . There is only a few degrees difference in temperature between the two charts but under the cover doesn't get as cold or as hot and the rate of rise is a little less . The humidity also stays lower at the peak (except the last day and as i have been checking the units every few days it may have been a sealing issue ). The dehumidifiers are designed to keep the environment under the cover at a level where condensation will not form - not to dry the air out completely and as the cover is only a plastic sheet draped over the machine i expected there to be some leakage.

The power usage looks to be around 0.4 KWh a day and at 13.2 cents a KWh it is costing 7 cents a day But i feel a large chunk of this cost is from the power supply fan as it is always running all be it only slowly so i will hook up another supply that has no fan and see what it yields, the power meter says it is using 21w of power at idle and considering the dehumidifier unit only draws 70 ma at idle or 8.4 w if i can get the idle time usage down to below 10w it should lessen the cost i bit .

Another modification i have made to the condenser housing is to add a duct on the exhaust end to carry the cold air coming out of the exhaust onto the heat transfer plate to aid in cooling .

Ian.

.Ok thanks Ketan!

I will give them a go .

I have avoided buying thee from that auction site for the exact reason you stated and i have seen a few reviews of blades from another well know seller that seems to be giving products out for review on youtube and the reviews were not good to say the least! .

I have purchased a bit from Ausee and have been very happy with the quality and price .

I destroyed a few insert blades doing some testing in the thread linked below but i did find some interesting things out about parting off . I was using the hare and forbes units ( toolmaster ) but i won’t be forking out that amount of cash for a new blade anytime soon - not from them anyway ! I believe Ausee are linked to ARC in some way ? If so i may try their holders and tips .

**LINK**

A few more pics for anyone who is interested .

Peltier module fitted to the heat transfer block and condenser fitted into the housing.

end view of housing showing the fins of the condenser and the hole for the DS18B20 temp probe for the condenser .

DS18B20 probe fitted to the housing.

Some insulation to minimise heat transfer from the hot side to the cold side of the unit .

O rings fitted to the underside of the screw heads to give some elasticity so the peltier unit is not crushed , i just nip these up until the O ring starts to distort .

A crude T nut arrangement will facilitate fitting to the C2 lathe bed .

The base of the housing showing the hopper/funnel and hole where the fan (50mm ) is to be fitted.

The T nut slots int the bed and is rotated 90deg and the even cruder wing nut is tightened .

Fitted to the bed - the top steel piece is aligned to the bottom T nut so i can tell when it is in the correct position and then tighten the wing nut -that thing gets uglier every time i look at it !

Two data loggers set up to track the humidity and temperature inside and outside of the plastic cover , i let all three stabilise before starting the recording .

I don't know why the last two images decided to rotate 90 deg - one day i will work out how to rotate them back !

On the top of the toolpost under the nut there is a set of needle roller bearings , this is one of the best modifications i could recommend someone does to their lathe - no more toolpost turning as you tighten it and the extra amount of clamping force you get because of the rolling element is exceptional .

Now i need to finish the units off and set up a power meter to check power usage while i let the data loggers do their job .

I have been using desiccant units for a few years now and while they do work any draughts will overpower them and i found the moisture indicator seemed to fail pretty quickly , one really annoying thing with the units i have is they fall over easily and i have destroyed a few of them when removing the cover from the machine as they toppled off and smashed on the ground - a thousand little desiccant balls went everywhere !

The dehumidifier unit has three seperate probes :

A SHT10 temperature and humidity sensor and two DS18B20 temperature sensors , one is for the bed temp and the other is in contact with the finned condenser . The software can read the temperature of the condenser and it has two parameters to stop the condenser from freezing , if the temperature of the condenser is below 5 deg centigrade it won’t turn on and if the unit is running and the condenser temperature drops to or below 1 deg centigrade it will turn off until the temperature is over 5deg centigrade.

The basic operation is if the dew point gets to 2 deg centigrade below the bed temp the unit will start and will continue to run until it has made the dew point drop to 6 deg centigrade below the bed temp , this gives a reasonable duty cycle and stops the unit cycling constantly if the dew point hovers around the threshold level of 2 deg below the bed temp.

When the unit is idle it draws 70 ma and when it is running 6 - 7 amps

What i wanna know is why as a model engineering website this one doesn’t have emojis that are more in line with what is generally discussed on the forum like a traction engine etc etc . One forum i used to frequent has animated emoji thingies and aren’t they annoying ! Trying to read a post while some damned little characters runs around is most distracting!

Ok part two !

The controller uses an Arduino nano which does the grunt work and switches a Mosfet to power the peltier unit and a small fan on the condenser unit . This shot shows the completed condenser - The general idea is the small fan (on the bottom of the unit under my hand ) forces air to flow across the cooled finned condenser so condensation forms on it and the water drips down into the hopper and is carried away via the clear plastic tube to a container on the ground. The alloy plate on the top is a heat sink and transfers the heat generated by the hot side of the peltier module into the lathe bed .

This photo is of the heat sink block and one with the peltier module sandwiched between the heat sink block and condenser (which is just an alloy heat sink scavenged from some old electronic device ) and the silicon heat transfer compound used to transfer the heat and cold from the peltier module.

This photo is of the unit set up on my lathe and the white cable is the bed temp sensor - The reason for transferring the heat into the bed is i just don't like wasting energy and the peltier module has to be kept under a certain temperature else it will die !

I used some cheap plastic painters drip sheets to create a cocoon but will make a better fitting cover from heavier plastic .

3D printing one of the condenser housings .

I will be using two of the data logging humidity/temperature sensors to test the units ability to lower the humidity inside the cocoon and i will post the graphs when i have them.

I must thank Silly old duffer - aka Dave for his assistance in getting the sensors i wanted to use up and running as my ability to code is still only amateurish at best !

I have recently been working on a small dehumidifier for each of my machines and thought i might post some photos and general info on this project for anyone who is interested .

My workshop is not sealed at all - basically a wooden frame with fibro walls and roof and the eves are open so using a large dehumidifier to control condensation is out of the question .

I needed something that can be placed under a plastic cover to create a dry zone regardless of the humidity level inside the workshop . The unit needs to be automatic , easy to set up and economical to run - i will need 3 of these in total so i don't want something that chews power !

The original idea came to me after reading an excellent article by Silly old duffer in MEW issues 263 &265 and how he sorted out a condensation issue in his house . This article started me thinking about dehumidifiers and i started to search online for anything small enough to fit the bill but everything seemed to be either too big or expensive .

While looking around i noticed some cheap peltier cooling units like what is used in small coolers or food warmers like what you would use in your car but these were not exactly what i wanted but they did give me an idea !

The pictures below show one of the completed units , power supply and general set up.

A modified 550W ATX power supply from an old PC will supply enough power for all 3 units and cost nothing . A new unit is around $50 AU here in oz .

The completed controller , 3D printed condenser housing and condenser .

On the controller the temp /humidity sensor is mounted on the left side of the case , the condenser temp sensor is the silver probe in the centre of the photo and the bed temp sensor is the black block with the white lead attached. Below is a shot of the controller screen showing the various readings and unit status . More to follow .

What a PIA !

I will never complain about doing an engine change again !

From the video i noticed a few things :

The guys in white coats are the boffins - there to tell everyone how to do it and never get their hands dirty .

The guys in blue are there to stand around with their hands on their hips amd make silly comments - a low chance of them getting dirty as well

The guys in red do 95% of the work and are probably the lowest paid out of all of them all !

Angus also taught me a little trick with removing the filament and if you fit a quick release for the filament tube it is even easier .

Unplug the filament tube from the hot end and lift it up to expose a good 75 mm ( 3 inches ) of filament then heat the hot end up to at least 210 c for pla or at least 230c for abs , once hot release the drive roller tension and push the filament down so it oozes out the nozzle then quickly pull up to pull the filament all the way out in one movement .

This will pull the glob of filament in the nozzle out with it and i have yet to have any problems with stuck filament , ideally you will be there when the print finishes or very soon after and this makes removing the filament even easier as everything is still nice and hot .

I once left the filament in the printer for about 6 months and what a pia ! Mistake #2 i call it ! It was a complete strip down of the hot end to get the filament out because it went brittle and as soon as i tried to grab it with anything it would disintegrate leaving me with no other way to get the nozzle or tube clear .

R/C cars, model trains and a fascination with the internal combustion engine which eventually lead me to steam engines as well .