Member postings for Greensands

Hi all - Problem now sorted thanks to the combined advice given on the topic. The answer was a combination of running the nut up and down the bolt a number of times plus a modified 2-pin wrench to provide greater leverage. Surprising thing is that although the torque level is now at an acceptable value for the job in hand, there is still a fair degree of stiffness retained in the nut. Thanks to all who responded.

Yes, I had considered warming it up a little. Will try this in the morning. Thread cutting lubricant appeared to have little effect.

Can anyone suggest a method of making a commercial Stiffnut 'less stiff' in order to reduce the torque required to tighten things up. I am using a 16mm nylon insert nut with a commercial zinc plated bolt in a rather confined space requiring the use of a special purpose 2-Pin spanners and given the fact that the spanner pin diameter is limited to 3/32" diameter it is proving essential to reduce the degree of stiffness imposed by the nylon insert. In the absence of a 16mm tap I have tried running the nut up and down the bolt which has eased things a little but it is still too stiff for comfort. Before resorting to abrasives and the like I just wonder if anyone may have some useful suggestions worth trying.

Hi Guys - Thanks for the info. Exactly the start I was looking for

Hi all - Watching a YT video recently reference was made to an MEW article in which a description was given on how to make a tubular style mechanical coupling to connect a Vertex rotary table up to a stepper motor for CNC control. Can anyone please tell me the relevant issue(s) required.

Hi guys - Success!. Many thanks for your help. I now have a smoothly working hand-wheel and a better understanding as to how the table works.

Yes, the worm drive is on an eccentric and clamped in place by a socket headed screw. Handle held in place by a grub screw engaging with a flat on the drive spindle

I have an EMCO rotary table and in place of the associated dividing attachment which did not come with the table I am endeavouring to fit a handwheel a shown in the photos. . Problem is that I am not sure how to do this as adjustment of the worm wheel drive mechansim appears to be very sensitive, ranging from the Locked solid - thru some travel with a lot of backlash - to no drive at all. Can anyone please advise me on exactly how to go about this operation.

Hi - In a nearby housing development I have noticed the builder is using Fairy Liquid in the concrete mix used for the footings of a new house. Does this have the approval of the building inspectoater and why would you want to do this anyway? I am sure someone will have the answer.

Hi - I have had a small 5" diameter rotary table for a number of years but have always found it to be of limited use because of the lack of end-stops which would otherwise make the job of radiusing the ends of small rods a lot easier task. The table does not have the usual slot around the outside edge where you would normally fit a pair of lockable stops and I do not have the means of putiting one in.

Can anyone suggest what my options are in overcoming this problem with perhaps some ideas on alternative means of fitting end stops . The 2" angle bracket shown attached to the table enables it to be bolted down to the milling machine.

Its available foc to anyone who would like it and happy to cover cost of postage, say £2.50. Anyone interested then send me a PM with an email address and I will forward some photos.

I recently tried to list a Chinese made look-alike multi-purpose 'Swiss' Army knife on fleabay but was prevented from doing so as it is against their policy to advertise knives of any description. Seems a pity as there is nothing wrong with it and as far as I am concerned is surplus to requirements. Anyone interested ?

I think I have now found what is required - a so called "Mortice Arris Rail Bracket" sold for use with concrete fence posts and listed on fleabay. Thanks for all for the help provided.

Does anyone know if arris rail support brackets are available suitable for use with a concrete fence post?. I have only seen those suitable for wooden posts where you screw into the side of the post, not ideal for a concrete post.

If opting for the trepanning route, what would be the recommended spindle speed? Presumably a tool ground as for a parting off operation but perhaps provided with a bit more side clearance would be the tool of choice?

Hi - Can anyone suggest what would be the best way to cut a 75mm diameter disc from a piece of 100x100x12mm thick alumimium plate. The object of the exercise is to produce an anular ring measuring approximately 100mm O/D by 75mm I/D and so the centre piece will effectively be an off-cut but being mean, I would rather like to retain as much of the work piece as possible rather than simply turn it all away in the process.

I am building a 5" gauge locomotive which will be fitted with a couple of injectors feeding water into the boiler via a top feed arrangement but in addition I am also considering fitting a tender hand pump for use as an emergency back-up. Problem is finding the best way to connect the water supply from the hand pump into the boiler given that the only possible location for an independent clack valve on the current boiler is make use of one of two wash-out bushes mounted low down on the backhead which would not ideal in terms of accessibility.

As an alternative I have been considering the idea of inserting a Tee piece into one of the injector feed pipes leading to the top feed fitting but would like some assurance that this would be a practical solution. Does any have firsthand experience of such an arrangement?

Hi all - I once heard it said that draw filing was a chargeable offence in the RAF but I have never had it confirmed that this was in fact the case. It may have been part of official policy adopted by the RAF training school at Halton, Bucks but when I mentioned it to an ex Halton RAF apprentice he was not aware of it. The mind set behind such a decision if true has always baffled me as it seems a perfectly proper and professional technique to me. Can anyone here through any light on the subject?

The two pics show the arrangement of my current top slide drilling attachment running from a mains operated motor fitted with a 5/16" dia o/p shaft via an electronic speed controller. It works well at the lower end but as said in the OP it struggles to drill 3/32" Dia in PB.

I am currentlyturning up a smaller diameter pulley wheel for the motor shaft in order to help improve the torque. In practice I would never wish to go much above 5/32" in drill size, anything larger being transferred to the milling machine.

Thanks for the link but apparently the design is not suibable for use with piston valves or where they cannot be mounted in the horizontal mode