Here is a list of all the postings MadMike has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: New lathe arrived today : The ongoing saga |
30/10/2015 09:19:02 |
Is it me??? On the 25th August, barely 8 weeks ago the OP reported "......my new lathe arrived....." So after 8 weeks, or so, 33 pages of messages on here, visitations from that nice "Mr Hopper" and all of the advice given freely and generously the problems with this so called "new lathe" are still not sorted. Frankly if I had bought a piece of equipment like this and it did not do the job it was designed for then it would have gone straight back to whoever sold it to me. Like it or not it appears to be a crock of s**t, and is clearly not fit for purpose. Please do not try and convince me that, it is only a model making lathe and so we should not expect too much from it, or that it is Chinese and that's what you get for your money, or that because you are in the Australian outback nothing can be done about it. That is all rubbish. Get your money back and start again. I am stunned that in this day and age nobody has said this earlier. Sorry to piss on everybody's (possibly everybody's) parade but this product is not fit for purpose. |
Thread: making spacers from one piece of steel |
21/07/2015 16:28:05 |
Two things occur to me the thickness of the spacers will probably preclude getting enough safe grip to part off the second spacer. Mathematically you can get 2 out of his 40mm length, but in reality this is unlikely. So the answer to the original questions are...... NO, and you need a longer single length of steel, or 2 longer lengths of different diameter.
The second thing is I am stunned at the reluctance to simply suggest parting off the spacers after drilling or boring the centre hole. The wall thicknesses are not great. Hole saws?Trepanning? Utter nonsense. The overhang on the parting tool will only be 20mm and 15mm. |
Thread: Which chuck to buy for first lathe ? |
10/07/2015 17:08:06 |
Brian Ausee, ad also on the right, are in Australia and show the Sieg CO in stock with an accessory pack. HTH. |
10/07/2015 17:04:07 |
Brian, I don't know where you are located but ArcEurotrade show the Sieg CO as in stock today. Their ad is on the right. |
Thread: Wanted Copper Tube |
26/06/2015 11:24:37 |
Stewart, try www.tubesupplies,co.uk Tel: 0208 230 5708. Their stocklist shows 1.1 metres of 8" OD copper tube in stock. HTH. |
Thread: Stainless Steel Pipe |
05/05/2015 15:16:30 |
£95??????????? I cannot imagine why you haven't just bought the stainless purpose made tripod. Home made tripods are OK if you have plenty of time and nothing better to do. Me...........I wouldn't mess about as it appears to be a work related item, which may even be tax deductible. |
Thread: Designing a coolant system for an Adept |
18/04/2015 22:08:29 |
I was faced with the problem of coolant supply for my Myford 254S a couple of years ago. I managed to get a tank with centre plate to act as a weir to prevent swarf being built up around the pump. Then I needed a pump and sought advice from everywhere I could until I got some really practical advice.............from my wife! She said "Why don't you just get a pump like the one you bought for the garden water feature"? So I did. It was 240 vols, so no need for transformers, and would lift to a height of about 1.8 metres. Got it on eBay. A few metres of plastic pipe from the local aquatic centre. I bought a flexi-outlet nozzle thingy with magnetic base, and The job was done. As I recall the pump was about £12. With the rest the all up cost was about £20. Simples. |
Thread: Dismantling Sieg SX2 Plus Mini Mill |
16/04/2015 23:14:24 |
David I bought a sieg SX3 from ArcEuro, a great experience from great people, and it weighs about 160 Kg. I also bought the Sieg stand for it and so the same problem of lifting occurred. I got 2 very strong friends to help lift it into position. That hurt a bit but we managed it. The problem is that if it is assembled then it has a disproportionate share of the weight at the back! Then you have to factor in the lack of room around the machine to allow everybody to grip and lift. To further add to the potential problems...........I apparently had a leaky heart valve and needed a replacement, plus a by pass at the time, BUT none of us knew that. Ha ha ha how we laughed when we found out some months later. If yours is a mere 60 Kg you should have no problem lifting it with some assistance. I hope you enjoy yours as much as I enjoy mine. |
Thread: Taper turning |
13/04/2015 15:53:02 |
0JT and MT1 are about £3.80 from Arceuro Trade. Link on this very homepage. HTH. |
Thread: Lathe holding |
01/04/2015 10:45:03 |
I also struggled with the description, but it seems like you were trying to produce a 15mm round boss in the centre of the 115 x 75 plate. Is that correct? What exactly do you mean when you refer to the process of bumping? The way to centralise a plate, or whatever, when in a independent 4 jaw is to slacken very slightly the one jaw and adjust the position of the plate by tightening the opposite jaw. In terms of the roundness tolerance, did you actually measure the spigot with a micrometer, to establish its correct size or are you relying upon the DTI reading? What lathe are you using and just what condition/state of repair is it in? Have you ever checked the accuracy of your lathe to establish the roundness tolerance that it produces? IMHO back plates do not loosen themselves overnight. The laws of physics apply here. Brians suggestions are very good and should help, but I really do not understand why you couldn't do this job as you started out, on a lathe. so many questions but if you are to carry out this sort of work then you need to analyse and cure the cause, not simply eradicate the symptom.
|
Thread: Choice of Steel Grade? |
10/03/2015 16:37:05 |
I know that some (many) will respond to this reply along the vein of "It is good practice to make the T-Bolts", but regardless here goes..........why waste all of that time making T-Bolts and messing about with the steel specification, when all you need to do is buy them ready made from RDG, ArcEuro Trade, etc, etc, etc. Get the bolts and nuts and then spend your time making something really useful like swarf, or some really difficult component for a model train or whatever. The real trick with engineering, model or otherwise, is to not waste time re-inventing the wheel. Make use of the effort of others and focus on the real task in hand. |
Thread: Double Tangye in slow (very slow) progress. |
27/02/2015 15:58:49 |
Please forgive me one and all, BUT what on earth is a Double Tangye????????? |
Thread: Sieg SX3L HiTorque Mill |
07/02/2015 09:24:09 |
Andrew I bought a Sieg Super X3 from ArcEuro about 18 months ago. I found Ketan to be exceedingly helpful during the decision making process. He gave freely of his time to go through all aspects of the machine and his company's services. I am very pleased with the machine and have not had a single problem with it at all. You must remember that it is a hobby mill of course, and is not as substantial as a Bridgeport. Having said that I use mine to make parts for classic motorcycles, and some parts for friends who have small company's and need something turned and /or milled usually at short notice. Much of my own parts are made in stainless and it copes well with this. As Nick says the L denotes a longer than standard table, and assume that if you are buying a new machine that Ketan has some long tables in stock. If you are close to Leicester then I would highly recommend that you visit Ketan and talk to him. HTH. |
Thread: Help on key for 4-jaw chuck needed |
31/12/2014 18:24:20 |
RDG sell chuck keys for around £8.00 each as I recall. |
Thread: Engineers level |
31/12/2014 18:22:54 |
Well a mixed bag of views. The "don't bother" levelling your lathe view has always been a source of great amusement to me since I started visiting this venerable site. I repeatedly see fine examples of accurate, precision work carried out by people without formal machinist training. It always amazes and impresses me time after time I am impressed. I come from a toolmaking background, and then some years making special purpose machine tools and, wait for it......installing them. If you want even a second hand machine, large or small, to produce consistent, accurate quality work then for goodness sake invest in a quality Engineers Level, and take time to get your installation as accurate as you possibly can. If you have a local Model Engineering Society close by join it, as they probably have a good level that you will be able to borrow. Ian, set you standards high in everything you do with your machines including the installation. Anything less should not be considered. Other opinions are available but remember quality work needs quality installation. |
Thread: Contacting RDG tools? |
02/12/2014 16:03:23 |
How have you ben trying to contact them Chris? They always answer the phone very promptly, and have always responded to my emails very quickly as well. I suggest a phone call, as suggested by Roger. You will find them very pleasant and very helpful. |
Thread: Theft... |
05/11/2014 19:10:10 |
Kevin I really am not trying to piss on your parade BUT....................I could open your shed door in less than 30 seconds., and I am an honest guy. Sorry. |
Thread: 25 Years of Great Ideas - What's Your Favourite? |
04/11/2014 18:29:10 |
Neil, I am only an occasional poster and I for one applaud your intention to publish a "special" celebratory edition, however, and there is always a however in these things can I suggest the following. Firstly you list the list with photo(s) and brief description of ,say, 25 tools. It is the 25th anniversary after all. Secondly get either the magazine or on-line subscribers or both to vote for (say) the top 5. Thirdly publish the articles on those items in a single edition. Fourthly perhaps publish the remainder over a set period at the rate of perhaps 2 per month. That way you will probably be able to contain the articles in single deitions and also satisfy those that didn't vote for the top 5. A bit of a win/win situation coupled with real editorial pragmatism. Feel free to tell me to p**s off if you don't like my idea. Other opinions are available somewhere in the ether. |
Thread: Gauge Blocks |
29/10/2014 21:42:30 |
Jack, gauge blocks are extremely accurate and certified components made from high grade tool steel or ceramic. They are normally used as a means of setting or checking measuring equipment. For example they will allow you to check a micrometer, or even set the postion of a DTI in a height gauge etc. Google is your friend incidentally. |
Thread: How to Face, the end of square bar in mill |
21/10/2014 15:29:07 |
I also misread the original message. Must go back to Specsavers. If you merely want to face off the 25mm square end the frankly a 4 jaw chuck in your late will do it very well and very quickly. The bar is only 28.28mm across the diagonals and so if it will go into the spindle then this really is the solution. The intermittent cutting at the corners will not affect the facing, and you can always adjust the speed and feed rate to suit. I often face mild steel, of various types but never good old EN1A leaded, aluminium and stainless in my 4 jaw chuck with no detrimaental effect on the finish. HTH and sorry for the confusion earlier. |
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