Here is a list of all the postings MadMike has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Cross feed problem |
27/02/2013 11:13:09 |
At the prices quoted by Myford I really do not see the point in trying to do a bodge job by messing about with Delrin, or other random materials. The lathe is presumably an essential part of your workshop, so for what is by any stretch of the imagination a cheap item treat yourself to a matching screw and nut. Remember that if you have power feed then you must buy a matched set. If you do the job this way you can really maximise your effort in the real issues of turning and/or model making. Other opinions are undoubtedly available, but that is my 2 Drachma. |
Thread: Workholding questions! |
19/02/2013 13:47:15 |
Chris, although your workpiece appears to currently be too far forward and thus not allowing the jaws to grip safely, you could simply measure the distance it need to be set back and file a flat with a coarse file. Leave a piece of the full diameter at the end so that you can easily measure the amount you have removed when machining. Simply placing the filed flat to the face of the chuck should do the job and allow you to get a full grip and carry on. Just make sure that the face of the workpiece is parallel with the face of the chuck if your filing skills have yet to be fully developed. Just mount a clock on the cross slide and adjust until it is parallel. HTH. Where have people developed their skilss? Well in my case it was as a toolmaker apprentice initially about a 1000 years ago, followed by a working lifetime in engineering based companies. Others have learned from friends and mentors, joining a local model engineering society, and yet others by trial and error. many books are written on the various engineering techniques but I have mainly found them useful as light reading, but that is probably due to my backgroung I guess. Other experiences are available and I hope that yours is a most enjoyable one. I don't do model making, using my machinery to make parts for the motorcycles that i collect and restore, but I do very much enjoy visiting this site. There are some very experienced people here are generous with their advice and even after a working life like mine I impressed with what they achieve and always manage to learn something on here. Keep visiting and keep asking questions. If you happen to be near Leicestershire you are welcome to pop in for advice, help or simply a cup of tea etc.
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18/02/2013 22:59:53 |
Chris that does not look secure. It is hopefully an optical illusion but your jaws do not appear to be past the centre of the workpiece, and they need to be on the round bar you are using. Should that be the case you stand a very serious risk of the component launching itself when you start machining it. |
18/02/2013 12:32:33 |
Jason, there a real, and I mean REAL, risk of the cutter coming loose in a 3 jaw chuck. Before anybody tries to draw an analogy with a 3 jaw chuck in a drill, remember the cutting action of a milling cutter is not the same. The impacting on single point cuting edges and the side thrust can loosen the jaws without warning. Lathes for turning only, unless you use a collet chuck. HTH. |
18/02/2013 12:09:08 |
Chris, DO NOT mount fly cutters and milling cutters in a 3 jaw chuck. Disaster and real danger, not namby pamby elf 'n sfety, that way lies. If you have to use your lathe in this way for goodness sake get a collet chuck. The mere fact that somebody does mount tools this way and gets away with it is simply thier good fortune. |
Thread: Something a little different from the day to day ME |
12/02/2013 13:33:07 |
CJ, Having used just such a machine I can vouch that they are more than capable of drilling very small holes, and equally very large ones with equal ease. We usually sed the radial drill because of component size and the relationship of multiple holes. As you can see in the 11th and 12th photos rthere appear to be 2 very large fabricated structures on the drill. The drilling arm has in this case both a large radial sweep and an extended table to allow it to traverse along the length of such a large structure. Thus it could give accurate repeatability when drilling and tapping. Robert the magnetic base drill was available in those days, but was mostly used in stuations where a component or structure couldn't be mounted under a fixed machine. or where a horizontal hole needed drilling in an existing piece of structural steel etc. Much has changed since these photos were taken but they do give a real sense of engineering atmosphere to those who were there, and I believe to those who have never experienced "engineering" on that scale. Don't you just love the pictures of the guys standing on the saddle of their lathe. I remember watching one of my colleagues turning extremely long and large diameter spindles on such machnes. He used to sit in a folding chair on the saddle and travel with the tool post, pouring tea from a thermos. Some cuts used to take several hours for one pass. Remember there is a clear heirarchy among the workers in these photos, which can be seen from their overalls. Boilers suits mostly machinists. Brown coats possibly a foreman, white coats, inspectors. White coats and a hat....managers. Those WERE the days. I hope you all enjoy the pictures.
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11/02/2013 14:45:20 |
As an occasional visitor and poster I thought that you might find this site of some interest. It certainly brings a new meaning to scale: - www.shipsnostalgia.co/guides/William_Doxford_and_Sons Enjoy.
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Thread: Myford 254 Electrical problem |
11/02/2013 14:28:00 |
If your 254 is single phase then it is probably the starting capacitor that is at fault. It is worth getting somebody to check and fit a new one. They are available from RS and do not cost more than about £12 as I recall.
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Thread: Carbide tooling |
06/02/2013 20:52:39 |
Stuart at the risk of sounding stupid, and that's not difficult for me, why are you bothering to fly cut such a small piece? I wouldn't bother with flycutting except on a large flat piece. I think that your description of a mini-lathe mill may actually say it all, particularly after reading your comments about using a Bridgeport in another life. All the talk about HSS v Crbide tools is OK but probably will not solve your problem, particularly as your milling head "tilts"during a light load cutting process. Other opinions are available of course. HTH. |
Thread: Beginners |
25/01/2013 23:25:02 |
Jimmy there is much to consider in tuning a two stroke and particularly a BSA Bantam. I don't know if you have a copy but "Tuning for Speed" by Phil Irving is highly recommended and still highly relevant. If you haven't got a copy I suggest that you get one. Study also the effects of altering transfer ports as well as inlet and exhaust ports. Remember that packking the crankcases and increasing the compression ratio by skimming the head or getting your hands on a Todd head, and an aluminium barrel are very effective. An aluminium barrel is also much easier to work on. Have you tried the Bantam Racing Club for advice? HTH. |
Thread: vertical slide or x1 mill attachment |
22/01/2013 14:51:07 |
Bob, I think your question says it all, and there isn't really much of a decision to make. If you can afford the cash and the space for the mill then there is frankly no need to consider a vertical slide for your lathe. For small lathes the vertical slides are by defiition "small" and this presents serious limitations in their effectiveness for clamping, and rigidity etc. Remember that in order to use milling cutters you will have to buy a collet chuck and some collets, or some other holding device. A 3 jaw chuck holding a rotating milling cutter is simply not safe. When I got my Myford 254S it came with a vertical slide............I have only used it once, prefering to use a friends milling machine until I buy mine. So never mind making adaptor plates, and buying swivel base vertical slides, get the mill and get as big a mill as you can afford and or accomodate. It will offer you so many more solutions and give you much more accurate work, you won't even have to make a filing rest. Just think of how quickly you can make all of that lovely swarf. |
Thread: Milling Machines |
20/01/2013 23:34:47 |
Francis, John I think you have first to define cross stitch, then decide the tolerance and fit of the cross and the stitch, and that is before we get to decide whether the cross and/or the stitch individually and/or combined are fit for purpose. Will the cross and the stitch even fit if they are both from China and what will happen if they are of mixed race? Am I being silly now? Probably, now where is that corkscrew? |
20/01/2013 21:37:10 |
I may have missed it in the fire fight, but what the hell machine did the guy who started the war actually buy in the end? |
19/01/2013 21:57:24 |
As I often say when I post here my contributions are few and infrequent, and I do not make mpdel trains etc etc. I use my machines to make full size working parts for running motorcycles of various makes and ages. I am about to buy a small "hobby" mill to go in my garage with my Myford 254S. I have looked at numerous machines in the low cost hobby machine sector, from numerous suppliers. Because of my engineering background I am aware of what I am buying and have interrogated anumber of people face to face about their machinery offer. I can assure you all that my milling machine will be bought from Ketan Swali at ArcEuro. Whenever I have visited him he has been extremely generous with his time and has been totlly open about the limitations of hobby milling machines. I an stunned at the rudeness of some on here towards him, he is in my view honest and open. I make all the normal disclaimers.
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Thread: Free Speech |
18/01/2013 16:08:02 |
As a ocassional poster on here my view is simply that the Moderators rules are the Moderators rules. He makes them and we comply. David if you feel that the sort of comments you have described are not acceptable ten that is really the end to it. At least you have made a positive decision and for that I applaud you. |
Thread: Where do I find a roller Filing rest for a lathe? |
17/01/2013 20:57:40 |
I have read this thread with some interest, caused in no small way by total curiosity. What are you guys using these filing rests for? Don't you simply turn metal in your lathes to produce something of a known accurate size and finish. For extremely accurate high finish work do you not simply leave a grinding allowance and grind to final size? Sorry if I appear stupid, I often do apparently, but I just do not understand this one. Help please. |
Thread: Emery Paper Grades |
17/01/2013 20:53:29 |
Merlin why are you worried about "new nomenclature" and grade numbers for such a low useage product. It's only emery paper or cloth after all. Just look at it and/or feel it and then sort and store it accordingly. Simples. Effort should be devoted to real tasks like cutting metal. Incidentally what do you use emery paper for? I bet I haven't used more than half a sheet in 5 years, and then only to polish some stainless steel cap screw heads.
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Thread: Turning cast iron |
12/01/2013 22:28:01 |
If cutting cast iron consider not only speed, approx 2/3 the cutting speed in feet/minute compared with mild steel, but also top rake on your tool. If you are using something like 20 degrees top rake for mild steel the this will not cut cast iron very well at all. For hard cast iro, and if yours has chill spots it will be hard, then zero degrees rake is probably worth considering as a starting point. Carbide tooling obviously. About 50 rpm would be a good starting point on a mini lathe I suspect. Good luck.
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Thread: Warco DH6 vice |
08/01/2013 14:17:09 |
Luke, opinion that you are seeking is not relevant. If you bought this new from Warco, or a Warco supplier, then go straight back to them and seek a replacement or refund. |
Thread: Rivet sets & snaps |
07/01/2013 11:42:24 |
Brian the form and size of the dome that you want to create is dictated by the grip length, the final closed length between heads, and the diameter of the rivet itself. The easiest way to get the right size is to refer to copy of Machinery's handbook or similar tome which will have tables to help. You may need to extrapolate and then experiment to get the final size right. |
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