Member postings for peak4

You could try popping down to your nearest custom exhaust builder.

They will have a hydraulic pipe expander designed for the job.

Failing that, it's possible to buy internal exhaust pipe expanders, which work on threaded rod. I've only ever used them for making a clamped, distorted pipe round again, so not sure if one would be up to the job.

Have a look at the adverts for one, then it should be easy enough to duplicate in the workshop.

This sort of thing on youtube; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcz6CSVmxQU

N.B. turn the sound down, and scroll to about 1 Min 45 

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 16/10/2017 23:49:00

Steve, it required a little ingenuity, as the base of the bellows is a larger diameter than you would find on either shockers or bike forks.

I made a reducer out of an ex-cashew nut tin, which fitted the gearbox end nicely. I then scribed a circle in the closed end and made lots of radial cuts, to allow the middle to open up like flower petals, to fit a short length of tubing which would suit the damper gaiter.

A couple of jubilee clips at that end and one at the other and it's made quite a neat job of it; or at least it will do when I finally get round to painting the stepped adaptor.

Bill

Well spotted

Bill

Companies house entries make interesting reading

Bill

Andrew, the two you have will give you the middle pair of speeds in the range; the errant ones are 12 & 40.

Looks like you got a good deal there.

The only immediate tip I have id regarding the bellows which protect the knee raising screw and gearbox.

When it arrives, mine ere little more than a set of unconnected washers.

I used a bellows shroud of an old after-market Landrover shock absorber; see also fork gaiters of some motorbikes.

Enjoy the new toy.

Bill

p.s. the normal storage for the spare gears is in a little cubby hole in the cross slide gearbox.

Edited By peak4 on 16/10/2017 00:07:52

Here you go, Biax's web site

**LINK**

Dennis, is it in writing anywhere?

I'm familiar with what's in the manual, but any first hand tips from one of the original engineers at Myford is always useful.

Thanks

Bill

Sorry, both a bit far to offer to assist.

Bill

Just moved mine from one house to another on my own, but no stairs involved.

When I got it I had to dispense with the large stand. and drip tray and fit it to a substantial wheeled trolley to fit it into my previous workshop.

I didn't remove the knee from the column, but did remove the table from the knee. Since it's adjustable for angle, all you need to do is disconnect the power wiring to the smaller cross feed motor, and remove the two nuts which clamp the swivelling joint on the knee; can't remember what size offhand, but about 5/16" BSF.

Vertical head or horizontal overarm just slides out of the dovetails, and there's only 4 bolts to hold the column and knee onto the base. Bit hard to get at the nuts on the underside if you still have the original base.

Borrow a sack barrow and a small ratchet strap off someone if you don't already own them and save yourself a hernia.

If possible transport the column upright to keep the oil where it should be.

I left the knee attached, as to slide it off upwards, would need a collar removing from where the horizontal arbour fits, and I didn't want to disturb anything unnecessarily. Also you would need to remove the raising mechanism from the knee, which has a slotted nut at the top and 4 allen screws to attach it to the base.

p.s. whereabouts in the country are you?

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 06/10/2017 00:24:08

Here you go,mine's missing the original cap, so sports one made from a brass nut with a plate soldered on to cover the hole.
The brass blow tube's a bit battered and now soldered on as well, but none of that is my handiwork.

Well worth buying if you ever spot one at a sensible price.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 04/10/2017 20:50:25

I's suggest it's incomplete; there probably should be a clip round the outside holding a curved metal pipe with a fine nozzle on one end and a flexible rubber pipe on the other.

Fill the cylinder with wadding and meths, take off the smaller cap, light the meths and blow down the tube.

This gives a very fine precise blowlamp for small heating jobs.

I'll root out mine and take a photo when I get chance,

Bill

Sean, have you thought about contacting your local steel stockholders in Inverness?

e.g. **LINK** or http://www.inverfab.co.uk/services/

Expensive prices on line, but I guess you could offer to collect and see what they might have in the scrap bin.

Bill.

Edited By peak4 on 03/10/2017 21:21:32

I can't imagine it happened knowingly; I'm sure if one of the purchasers contacted them, they should consider a batch recall before someone gets hurt.

Bill

Mine came with a 1425 1Hp 3 phase motor, presumably from new, which seems to do the job fine. I run it off an inverter.

If you get the chance, and can afford it, a 3 phase 2800 with an inverter may give you the best of both worlds, though I've not tried that option myself.

I still need to convert my power feed motor to delta, so I can run that off an inverter too. There is a thread and some photos on this very forum about that job somewhere.

Bill

Hello Wayne, depending on how much you would charge, I could certainly use them.

I bought a 4 1/2" Taylor chuck a few years ago, but it only came with two sets of specially made jaws; presumably welded up from a couple of sets of soft jaws.
I've been looking for a set of standard ones for a while now.

Bill

I appreciate it's a web link, so wont be seen by many, but if you have an interest in old Landrovers and earlier versions of Windows, this is well worth persevering with.

You do have to wait whilst the screen refreshes, but then again, remember installing stuff under Win95.

Have an explore and see it all the way through.

Virtual Landrover

Assuming the centre hole in the tang is still retrievable, sharpen the drill first, so the pointed end is actually in the middle, and drill a small bevelled hole into a spare blank arbour to fit your headstock.

Use this to locate the sharp pointy end and turn between centres.

Bill

Alternatively, as a possible temporary fix, is the blind hole on a stud or similar that sticks out from the main body of the device?

If so, make something out of brass which will clamp around the boss with a suitable threaded hole in it to attach the bus bar; leave the broken tap in place to be dealt with another day.

Bill

I've found it's often the case that cheap and cheerful stainless bolts are undersize.
For the price that folks like Toolstation charge, I've not let it bother me too much, though I'm a bit careful where I fit them on the motorbikes.

Bill

I've got one of the original ones which came unfitted to my Warco Super 7 clone when I bought it.

Still new in box as I've not had time to fit it due to a house move and new workshop build.

Has anyone on here fitted one to their lathe?
Just thinking out loud at the moment and wondering if they are compatible with the new fitting kit?

Bill