Member postings for peak4

I made a home brewed one similar to Rod's which seems to work well enough for keyways and splines shafts.

Bill

I'd be a bit wary of the dust from Scotchbrite pads getting into any bearing interfaces.

Bill

And another welcome form a Derbyshire resident with an interest in bikes & kit cars; Snowy Buxton being the place of our new residence if you're in the area.

Regards

Bill

No, in this case, It's not a plug instead of a valve. It's a plug with a tapered seat hole and a tapered bolt in it.

i.e. it needs a spanner to drain it, rather than a conventional quick, finger operated, valve;  This is why the first owner left it a gnat's open to ensure it didn't have water sitting in it all the time.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 10/12/2017 01:55:46

Hello, and welcome, roughly how much are you looking at for a re-grind of bed, saddle etc on a Super 7?

If you'd rather not post the answer on here, a PM would be appreciated.

Thanks

Bill

Yes exactly that, a V twin with a wet sump, just like my Ducati; it seemed a double negative to say that it it's none oil-free. I appreciate that I'll need a drier/filter for spraying but I think a plasma cutter would make a bit of a mess of my nice new floor tiles.
My intention was to add a valve drain cock, rather than the current one which needs a spanner to vent the air tank.

To save needing to lie down to access the underneath of the tank to drain it, I was going to mount the dump/drain valve at the end of a longer length of copper pipe, attached to a union at the base of the tank.

Provided there is a low "swan neck" in the copper pipe, the volume and velocity of the escaping air should clear any condensate quite happily. Being a copper vent pipe, any few remaining drops shouldn't cause corrosion issues either. I also need to add a third wheel to raise one end, instead of the current lump of wood, so any condensate runs towards the drain vent, rather than away from it.

When I used to work for BT before retirement, all the underground cables were run at positive air pressure to help prevent water ingress through leaks in their outer membranes. The ECP (External Cable Pressure) racks in each exchange had a compressor which ran through a drier of some sort which occasionally vented; (normally into a milk bottle), at the base of the rack. After that, the air then went though an axial vessel containing some sort of moisture absorbent granules,via flow-meters into the cable chambers.

Thanks for all your replies

Bill

Thanks Bazyle, that was exactly my own thoughts, which is why I raised the question.

I didn't mention it myself as I didn't want to prejudice anyone else' thoughts.

I'm actually in agreement with you, and was thinking about obtaining a valve to use as a drain cock, rather than the daft current arrangement which requires fiddling underneath with a spanner.

Within reason, I'm not bothered about the safety implications of compressed air and oil/wax in this case, as it's an oiled compressor, so if I gave a go at paint spraying, I'd probably need an inline filter/condenser fitting before the spray gun anyway.

Cheers

Bill

David, I wasn't suggesting coating the inside of the tank, more just adding a bit, such that it works in the same way as the brown VCI paper that one might use to line a tool drawer.

I'm not sure if the constant air flow would remove the active VCI ingredient too quickly.

The extra cost of running the compressor would be negligible in my case, as the workshop's not in daily usage, and the drain cock's barely cracked, not wide open; I can't hear air escaping and it just drips a bit of water out.

I recently bought a second hand Clark Boxer 55 50L 3 HP V twin air compressor for the new workshop/garage.

I'm aware of the need, and reason, to drain down air condensate from the pressure vessel on a daily basis; to prevent corrosion and water build-up.

The previous owner said that what he did, was to slightly crack open the drain cock on a permanent basis and just allow it to drip. I've been doing this, dripping into an ex-ready meal aluminium container with a couple of paper towels in it to prevent any splashing, though there's not much water drips out.

Any thoughts on the wisdom of continuing this practice, or am I better just fully closing the drain cock, and draining daily whenever I use it?

As it's set at the moment, without using any air myself, there is enough leakage out of the drain cock for the motor to kick in every half hour or so. I always turn off the compressor when I pack up for the night and let it de-pressurise itself.

Also, I spray a VCI emitting aerosol wax into various bits of Landrover, to help stem the internal corrosion. I was wondering about a quick spray into the 50L pressure vessel: Any thoughts on that one??
It's Corroless CCI400 wax that I use. (see the link for details.) Being a second hand compressor, it's too late to use one of the various fuel tank sealants, as there will almost certain be come corrosion in place that I wouldn't want to seal in.

Thanks

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 07/12/2017 19:22:53

As Neil mentioned on another thread, when I said I used it, just make sure you get a non biodegradable mineral chainsaw oil, rather than one of the newer eco friendly rapeseed oil varieties.

There's a little bit in HERE if you've not seen it before.

Bill

According to RS, that particular switch is designed to be used in conjunction with a contactor;

See Here

What did the ebay seller's supplied wiring diagram show?

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 01/12/2017 14:13:34

Martin, please check your PMs. My friends contact email address is in there.

Bill

Martin, I've contacted a friend about this, but waiting to hear back; he's not on this forum, but I suspect will be familiar with the item.

Would you mind hanging fire on ebay until I hear from him.

Thanks

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 29/11/2017 20:28:58

Try this

Done with the jpg link you provided earlier in the thread (https://preview.ibb.co/cNH2L6/IMG_7698.jpg) and the Image icon at the top of the posting page; the one next to the camera

No, I haven't a clue what the holes are for

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 28/11/2017 01:45:11

Edited By peak4 on 28/11/2017 01:46:45

Piero, I may have misled you regarding tooth numbers on the initial drive gear; the one that is just below the tumblers. Unfortunately I can't edit my earlier posts

I've just been looking at your other albums, and seen your photos relating to a very nice re-build.

I'm no Myford expert by any means, though I've owned a tatty Super 7 for about 30 years. Mine, though old is newer than yours, and is fitted with changewheels, rather than a gearbox.

I also have a Warco copy of a Super 7 with gearbox, which seems to be a copy of a later variant of the super 7, with power x feed.

Going by the photos on Tony's web site, I think your lathe is one of the early ones, looking at the cap above the spindle, perhaps fitted with the early screw cutting gearbox, so the drive ratios may be different to mine, but still achieve the same final gearing at the output side. Check though the various pages he hosts and check for yourself.

I don't want to deep link to photos on his web site, but of you follow the link to an ML7 Photo Essay and scroll down to where the left hand gear cover is open, you can count the teeth on the gear on the tumbler stud. That photo shows 20 teeth to drive the gearbox on that ML7. My Warco copy has a 24 tooth drive gear on there, similar to some of the other genuine Myford photos on the same site.

If you have a look on Myford's web site, and type "Fine Feed" into the search box, you will see the one piece tumbler drive gear; there's a variety of pitches at the large end, to suit the application, but all are 12 tooth at the small end; these would normally be used to provide a finer feed on a changewheel lathe like my genuine Super 7. I don't believe that any of the gearboxes used a 12 tooth drive gear on the tumbler stud.

Just an offbeat thought, if you were to select 8 TPI on the gearbox (the same as the leadscrew) one complete turn of the chuck should result in one complete turn of the leadscrew if the drive gear is the correct one.

Bill

One of These I think, maybe I should have built a bigger workshop last summer.

Bill

N.B. I wasn't quick enough editing my previous post.

Following on from where I typed

Onto this you fit the first drive gear to start the screwcutting/fine feed change gears in motion (Most commonly a 20 tooth gear for imperial, or 21 tooth for metric threads, on a non-gearbox lathe).

I should have added, on your gearbox equipped lathe the drive gear should probably be a 24/30 tooth combination.
There might also be a chart inside the door giving alternatives to the 24 tooth gear for cutting metric threads.

Just got back in the edit time to add the link to Tony's Lathe resource for Myfords.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 25/11/2017 22:22:33

The first photo in your set shows the first driver set of the leadscrew chain. The following comments assume a lathe doesn't have a gearbox fitted.

Following typing the rest of this diatribe I've re-visited your photos and realised that you must have a gearbox fitted as you've got a copy of its manual.

The gear which is fixed to the bronze bush engages with the tumbler gears for forward/reverse drive of the leadscrew.

Onto this you fit the first drive gear to start the screwcutting/fine feed change gears in motion (Most commonly a 20 tooth gear for imperial, or 21 tooth for metric threads, on a non-gearbox lathe).

You should have one on your lathe now assuming the leadscrew/gearbox turns when you operate the lathe.

N.B. If you have a fixed ratio dual sized gear in place at the moment, it's most likely the one designed for an even finer feed of the leadscrew, which will give you all the wrong pitches if you try screwcutting. (this is available as an optional extra)

The bolt with a flat section below the head, is to set up another pair of gears in the drive chain, not for the gear with the attached keyed stub. The squared off bit saves it rotation on the banjo. There should also be a bronze "Top Hat" bush which runs on this special bolt, which I can see in your photo, and in turn, a tube with an external key which runs on the top hat.

This allows a pair of gears to be keyed together, separated by that little washer with a slot in it. The whole assembly then sits on the banjo to the left of the headstock, and allows an intermediate pair of gears in the drive chain.

I hope this reads OK as it's not easy to describe without pictures.

Further edit of my post; I's say these are probably surplus to your immediate requirements, subject to the warning I gave above regarding the gear just below the Tufnol tumber gears.

Assuming you will at some point need to cut metric threads, it is possible on an imperial gearbox lathe by changing the initial drive gear in the chain. i.e. the one that sits on that keyed boss in your first photo.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 25/11/2017 21:49:31

Edited By peak4 on 25/11/2017 22:13:57

Gents, the same web shop also has the old carbon steel versions at rather cheaper prices; http://www.sofmilitary.co.uk/shop-re-enactment-military-swords,-bayonets-and-knives-knives-category,1128

 Filter it on "knives", and "cheapest first". 

I've actually ordered a 1950's pair to replace the the one I lost years ago. This post prompted me to get round to it; I'd been intending to do so for ages.

Look on the re-enactment part of the web site.

Also have a browse in The Famous Sheffield Shop, where you will see versions by both Rogers and Eggington (now the same parent company)

Please consider carefully before ordering a pocket knife with a locking blade, due to knife legislation in the UK.

There are further proposals to restrict mail order sales to private addresses included in a government consultative document . This link leads to a pdf download. See Proposal A, page 11

If I and others read this correctly, you will no longer be allowed to order even a craft or kitchen knife for home delivery.

I accept that this is an engineering and not a political website, so I won't go further in my opinions of some of the other pdf contents. (depending on Neil's reply )

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 25/11/2017 21:13:33