Member postings for Ady1

May be too late now but learning CAD definitely keeps you in the ME loop when the physical part becomes an issue

Also handy if illness puts you onto the subs bench for a period

GL

Nice

There are some pdfs here which may help

I believe that support issues meant the hobby market was quite short lived

ME threads

Unlocked and got into my cortina then tried to put the key into the ignition but it wouldn't work

I'd unlocked the door with the petrol cap key which was about half the size

Well done you. Thought I'd quote a prior post which I have taken note of:

----------------------

Posted by old mart on 30/05/2023 16:48:19:

As I say, again and again, if you have a choice between MT3 and R8, always choose the R8. Morse taper was designed for drills and works very well with them, not mills. Ignore the Morse taper fans, they are wrong, these stuck MT threads are a perennial feature of the forum. Just check out the number of stuck R8 threads.

Edited By old mart on 30/05/2023 16:50:13

-----------------------

Stainless is tough but quite malleable compared to many metals, so it's prone to deformation under load

Fabulous for bending 90 degrees and maintaining its strength

You MAY have a higher spec stainless steel, like they use for yachting fixtures, only way to find out is to give it a whirl and see what happens

That's one way of applying heat internally

put a bit of metal into the collet chuck and weld it up to a very hot state, you'd need to protect the mill table with a fire blanket and a bit of board

If you spot weld it in as far from the bore as possible would it be ok?

Less heat= less distortion issues

Use a high setting, in...get a bead...out

A lower start voltage gives you a more focussed arc if memory serves

Yours sound pretty bad, all my jammed stuff dropped out

Brian mentioned a constant pressure system, like with a ball joint breaker you crank up the pressure and walk away letting nature take its course

Unscrew the closing nut for the collet chuck and put a close fitting 8 mm plate behind it having two threaded holes for jacking screws to bear on a solid part of the machine somewhere behind the chuck. Refit the chuck closing nut to grip the plate and use the two screws to apply load to the plate.

That would be my next route, use decent gear like high tensile hex bolts so you can really crank up the pressure

Can be used in tandem with the temperature route and a few hammer blows

You're going to be the forum master morse taper unjammer when you get this sorted, ugh

side mill a bit of scrap with the drawbar loose and nothing under the nose

Unless it's welded in, it should drop out

edit: and make sure the "drop" distance under the nose is only about 1mm

Edited By Ady1 on 30/05/2023 10:24:31

We actually have a thread in here about a crated lathe being moved up a beam ramp onto its workbench

Can't remember who posted it though, there were pictures and everything and it was very competently done

Beginner tip

At first you believe that a neat weld is good welding and that's what you set as an objective, but you can see that the neat bead in the picture above was useless

The most important thing for hobby welding is PENETRATION, melt that metal and fuse it together

The blue plate in the picture would be your main difficult target because it's much harder to penetrate a heat losing flat metal plate. The edge of the second (missing) plate will melt/weld far more easily so most of your amps need to get fired right into the flat blue plate and this penetrating bead fuses with the edge of the missing upper plate

But it takes quite a long time and a lot of practice to build experience and confidence, even for non critical hobby welding

It's just a catchall to cover Googles legal behind

Go to Morrisons and "Vehicles are parked at the owners risk"

I got my initial morse taper 1 angle by using trigonometry

fixed number of turns of leadscrew (so a fixed distance) moved dti point touching topslide body by the required distance as the topslide body moved past it

The DTI must be at 90 degrees on the horizontal plane

Took a while to tap the topslide to just the right angle, it was slightly finger tight for stability

Then cut a morse and tested it

Then scribed a line following the body of the topslide onto the cross slide with a sharp knife to make it a permanent alignment fixture when needed

When I make new ones I measure the diameter of the workpiece, about 10mm is the mouth of MT1 if memory serves

The first one you do is a total faff but if you scribe the topslide the rest are pretty easy

Edited By Ady1 on 29/05/2023 02:09:21

He's right you know

You should at least start with a cut down version to see what you're letting yourself in for, then you can expand it if everything is going to plan, or not if it isn't

It takes a while to learn to make decent penetrating welds but the flux wire is easier than stick and miles more reliable. The downside is it costs more

Settings are everything and only experience will give you the confidence to tweak about to get things right

Don't be afraid to reverse the polarity to see if it makes a job easier

You need the 200-250A for bigger stuff, 8,10 mm. 12mm you need to cut in and build the weld

12mm is where stick takes over and big boy amps are needed

Tack weld is your friend, especially if you have to do vertical stuff and sheet

Get a good mask, don't skimp, a parweld trucolour is about 70 bananas

Welding is hard work once you start a bigger project and before you do that you'll have to burn through a few practice reels and test welds

Well worth the effort but it takes time and a lot of practice

GL

Gasless Mig is all I use now, up to 200amps

150A isn't enough once you get some experience, I've got to do stuff until late tonite, will post my opinion then but don't go under 200Amps and 250 is better

I'm bak

Try to get one with a voltage knob, Amps knob and feed rate knob

15V upwards starting voltage, low voltage is brill for sheet

30A upwards, low amps again for sheet

Edited By Ady1 on 28/05/2023 19:29:18

Took me 20 minutes with the Tracing tool to get the basics, then extrude onto the plate

I stole the lettering from your video

You'd need to faff with the Loft tool to get the curvy bit of the plate, so say 40 minutes for a first ever try

You would loft a solid curve under the bottom section of the lettering, then loft a curve cut over the top section of the lettering(in theory)

You can almost always get there eventually with Alibre Atom, about an hour?

Alibre Pro would probbly take 10 minutes

Edited By Ady1 on 28/05/2023 18:24:51

It's like a toy that never stops being interesting in my case

I'm not sure about lettering on curved surfaces with Alibre, the last I heard it was in a future update

will have a go at it...

Edited By Ady1 on 28/05/2023 17:48:10

Youtube is bound to have various techniques for degreasing and derusting old kit

A couple of hours squirreling about on youtube can save you a lot of effort later on