Member postings for Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, James et al.,

It used to be possible to buy a chuck refurb kit comprising new jaws and gear ring but I haven't seen them listed anywhere recently. The kit is a bit mind-boggling because the gear ring is made with a notch then hardened and split into two pieces. Amazingly, when I fitted a couple (many years ago) the two halves of the gear ring fitted together perfectly. I'm sure I remember seeing the refurb procedure on YouTube.

If one were to acquire a used chuck whose body wasn't visibly 'chowdered' AND acquire a refurb kit the result could be an affordable path to a quite usable chuck? Having suggested that, I did have a bit of an adventure with a keyless chuck (similar to an Albrecht but still by a reputable maker). I think it was rejected from a cnc machine because of a programming error collision - not only was the MT arbor bent but the JT taper socket in the arbor end of the chuck was out of true as well!!!

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

In my younger days, the standard reference book(s) was (were) 'Amateur Telescope Making' by Ingalls, volumes 1 to 3. I think you could get a long way with mirror grinding and mount design with just volume 1. The other two volumes cover a wider range of associated (& interesting) topics including the home workshop production of optical components for binoculars etc. for the military during WW2.

But I daresay that's a bit passé nowadays.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Why did this post make me think of traffic control on single track railway lines?

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

I'd suggest carefully drilling a hole at the junction between the chuck body and the insert and tapping for a grub-screw. Maybe 2 BA? Maybe four-off, angularly midway between the four large holes in the chuck body. On the same principle as the fixing of the gear on the back end of the ML7 arbor. Carefully check first to ensure that there's enough 'meat'.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, all,

Reverting to windscreen wiper motors for a moment, adapting one of those to a continuous rotation function means disposing of the wiper blade waggling linkage.

I've never actually held one in my hands but I've wondered whether a side window raising/lowering motor might be simpler to adapt. They're obviously reversible. How do they compare, power-wise and mechanically?

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

The diagram shows the dimensions GHT measured on his machine. They are, of course, subject to manufacturing tolerances and hence vary slightly from machine to machine.  GHT recommended that ML7 (and, by implication, Super 7) owners should measure and record the specific dimensions of their own lathes and keep a copy for future reference. Mine is laminated and pinned to the wall behind the lathe - I also have another in my 'study'.

By the way, the tool-post shown in the diagram is the Myford four-way tool-post.

I reckon the original diagram was dimensioned using a Uno stencil & pens - anyone remember those?

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 01/02/2017 19:20:52

Hi there, Andrew,

I posted this in another thread only a few days ago:

It's from G.H.Thomas' book, details given in the earlier post.

Did you solve your lead-screw problem?

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Here's the earlier thread: http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=123691

Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 01/02/2017 19:27:20

I trained and worked as an electronics engineer starting in 1954 but had contact with things mechanical. As has been quoted several times on this forum, the then applicable British Standard Specification (aka 'BSS' ) specified BSF for threads 1/4" diameter or larger (exceptions for castings - BSW) and BA for threads smaller than 1/4" diameter. My ML7 complies with that BSS.

Incidentally, the thread on the right-hand end of the ML7 lead-screw is also 7/16" BSF.

I just had a skim view of a couple of the ML7 exploded diagrams and parts lists on the Myford web-site, the only exception to BSF &/or BA I found was BSP - the washer for the drip-feed head-stock oiler! By the way, all those exploded diagrams and parts lists are down-loadable JPEGs, very useful to have on one's computer for ready reference.

I hope this helps.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

edited to insert a space between the ' and the ) to kill the spurious smiley!

Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 24/01/2017 10:22:08

Wilbur? Wilbur??

Whatever happened to Hissing Sid?

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, Andrew,

You have a PM.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, Rainbows,

This should help:

Source: 'The Model Engineer's Workshop Manual', by George H Thomas, Page 240, Fig. 21.2. Mr. Thomas recommends ML7 owners to measure their own machines and produce their own version of this diagram for future reference.

The 'top bit' is the Myford four-way tool-post.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, Nick,

I agree with Kwil's advice.

However, it's a good idea to fit a simple baffle plate to protect the motor from flying swarf entering its ventilation ports which will be just behind the lathe spindle nose. Some will say 'but metal swarf is too heavy for the motor fan to draw it in' - I'd say swarf doesn't always seem to obey the laws of physics! Besides, somewhere in the future you might be turning plastic and plastic swarf is a lot lighter but just as bad for the motor's innards.

My real point, though, is that fitting such a baffle or screen (sharing the motor's mounting bolts) is very, very, very much easier while you are in the process of fitting the motor, it's a real pain if it means removing a motor that's already mounted and aligned. So now is the time to think about it. As part of this topic, is your lathe mounted with it's back to the wall? If I had my time over again I'd position mine at right angles to the wall.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 03/01/2017 13:29:20

Hi there, Andrew,

The member's profile is different from a PM, it is accessible to all - a PM is only accessible to the addressee (and maybe to moderators).

I say again, look in your inbox, accessible by clicking on the 'inbox' icon in the green bar at the top of the page (you need to be logged-in to do this).

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Andrew,

My Private Message (aka 'PM' ) to you is still showing as 'unread'. I suggest that you log in and click on the 'inbox' icon in the green bar at the top of the screen.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 30/12/2016 09:21:42

Andrew,

You have a PM.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi Michael ,

Does that mean that, in practice, the shelf life of 638 is 30 years?

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, Andrew,

I have both but have never used either type but I will presume to offer a few comments anyway, if only to galvanise others!

It is worthy of some cogitation that the kit traditionally offered by Beeston Myford comprised the capstan turret (two variants - bed-mounted or cross-slide mounted), a manual cut-off slide (two variants - lever-operated or hand-wheel operated) and a multi-stop unit that mounted to the rear of the lathe bed. The cut-off slide could mount two tool-posts, e.g. front tool for facing & rear tool for parting-off. I guess which set-up would be best for you depends upon the details of the part you're making. Others can advise you better than I can.

While I'm here, though, I'm mystified by my cross-slide-mounted capstan unit - it has a most impressive 'waggle' lever that looks as though it ought to step the capstan round to the next position. In practice, it only seems to operate a detent bolt and it seems necessary to manually unlock and re-lock the capstan securing nut at each tool-change. I hope that subsequent posts in this thread will enlighten me as to whether my capstan unit is bust or just functionally challenged!

I don't have the multi-stop unit.  They seem to command mega-buck prices on eBay, considering that they are not coupled to the capstan and so need to be turned by the operator!

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 16/12/2016 18:58:22

Brian, the OP has a Myford taper turning attachment - he said it came with his lathe.

Martin, I didn't think of the power feed aspect but you're quite right about it.

Clive, only during the hours of daylight! My computer gaming wife, on her computer adjacent to mine, insists on gaming in darkness (Silent Hunter 4) and, although my keyboard is by Cherry, it's not one of their top end models with two-shot moulded key-tops!! Silk screened QWERTYUIOP plus entropy = some blank keys!!!!!

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

P.S.: Should that be 'Silk screened QWERTYUIOP x entropy'?

Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 05/12/2016 13:43:34

Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 05/12/2016 13:45:56

Hi there, Piero,

The advantage of the Myford taper turning attachment is that it allows/enables you to turn longer tapers than are possible using the set-over top-slide (but see below). In particular, the top-slide travel on the ML7 & Super 7 isn't long enough to turn a number 2 Morse taper whereas this is well within the range of the taper turning attachment.

In theory, it is possible to turn a MT2 taper using the set-over top-slide if you do it in two sections but 'harmonising' the two sections would require an amount of juggling which I, personally, would find prohibitive. (Maybe that would form a suitable successor to the four-jaw indicating challenge at the Bar-Z Bash?!?!)

Having replaced my standard cross-slide with the long cross-slide, I have sometimes wondered whether it might be worthwhile adapting the old cross-slide to make a 'super top-slide' that could be set over and used to machine MT2 tapers. But, so far, it's always been easier to buy an MT2 blank end arbor from ArcEuro.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 05/12/2016 11:23:23

Hi there, ASF,

My copy (ISBN 085242 715 8) has 'Sections', not 'Chapters'. Section 3 runs from page 52 to page 56 and is entitled 'Standard Tapers and Collets'. It finishes with details of Clarkson end-mill screwed shanks (well, where else would you put that info?!). That Section does not have the Myford mandrel nose drawing we're discussing in this thread.

I'm confused!

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!