Member postings for Paul Lousick

Pictures of models are definitely more interesting than which lathe should I buy to the experienced users but important to others so that they can get started in model engineering. Therefore it is up to those who are building or have built a model to post more photos.

The Oxford dictionary describes a model (in an engineering sense) as a three-dimensional representation of a person or thing or of a proposed structure, typically on a smaller scale than the original.

As well as just viewing the articles on the front page under "Latest Forum Posts", older posts can be viewed on a particular topic (Workshop Techniques, 3D printers, Live Steam, Clocks, etc)

Thousands of members photos are on ME but most are in their album and you have to open it to see them. The problem being is that you have to find their post first which gets lost in the past. My 6" scale (half size) model of a Ruston Proctor traction engine is at ** Link **

Which models ? (And in the words of one of our red headed polititions "Please Explain" )

Unless the keys are a transition or interference fit with the slots in both the vice and table there will always be some mis-alignment, so it is good practice to always push the vice against one side of the table slot as you are tightening the hold down bolts to keep them parallel. Even if the keys in the vice are much smaller than the mill table slots, you can align it fairly accurately by pushing against one side of the slot.

Using the keys to align the vice is only accurate if they are parallel to the jaws in the vice.

Paul

Martin, Terminology depends on which country and which industry you are in..

https://www.carrlane.com/product/locators/fixture-keys

Paul

Edited By Paul Lousick on 11/01/2021 09:19:18

Hi James,

The rectangular blocks are called "keys". Although most machine vices come with key slots, very few will come with keys. The main problem is there is no standard for the width of keyeways on milling machines or vices. Unlike a key on a shaft that is specified for a particular shaft diameter.

Keysteel is available to suit the width of standard keys and just has to be cut to length and a hole for the retaining screw machined.

If the keyway on your vice is a different width to the keyway width on your mill table, you will have to make a special stepped key, with the top width different to the bottom. As you already have a mill, it should be no problem.

Although the keys are not necessary and if the slots are accurately aligned with mill table, they make the installation of the vice very quick for most of the milling operations. Its only when you want the best accuracy that you use a dial indicator for setup.

Paul

Edited By Paul Lousick on 11/01/2021 09:13:57

Howard,

I'm asuming that " the limiting factor is probably the up and over garage door and the angle of the drive down to it" is only when you aremoving the mill to your new workshop.

I would transport the mill and base separately and re-assemble when you move it to the new workshop. My workshop has a strong beam in the roof and I use a small winch to lift the mill. You could also use a car engine crane.

Paul

Have you tried the indexes at the bottom of the front page of this site ?

Paul

Make a D-bit out of tool steel. Its what I do to make tapered holes for plug valves.

Search the internet for how to make a D-bit. They are not hard to make.

Paul

Edited By Paul Lousick on 07/01/2021 05:44:21

Jame's question was for "a clear product which is good a heat resistance" for a " 60mm dia. viewing glass"

As far as I know, Micas are translucent to opaque with a distinct vitreous or pearly luster, and different mica minerals display colors ranging from white to green or red to black.

Therefore unsuitable foe a viewing glass.

Paul

The Warco GH Universal milling machine looks like it is one of the many Rong Fu machines that are made in Taiwan. I have one that is sold in Australia as an HR-45 mill/drill and bought it with the standard base made from sheet steel. It is sturdy to support the mill but not overly heavy.

The mill base is bolted to a wider base with outrigger casters so it can be moved around my small workshop. It is stable when moving and operating.

The base had an access door at the side and I added a second at the front as well as 2 drawers. The drawers are mounted on extended slides, allowing full access.

Paul.

My mental arithmetic is getting a bit rusty as the "old timers disease" is starting to set in and to do some of the maths above I would be reaching for a calculator.

But in the original post it stated::- " I work with metric drawings but my stumbling block is knowing quickly how much cut is needed to get to size without reaching for the calculator."

If converting dimensions from metric to imperial (and vice versa), I find it is much easier to convert them all and mark-up the drawings before you start machining instead of doing it while machining.  The actual converted dimension that you are using is recorded and can be used when measuring and checking the finished part.

Paul

Edited By Paul Lousick on 06/01/2021 10:47:40

Hi Athur, as mentioned previously

Best option is to fit a DRO and you can read in either imperial or metric. (And remove the problem of calculating for back lash).

A cheaper option is to fit a digital caliper or dial indicator. Lots of examples on Youtube of how to do it.

A high tech, hands free option is to get one of those new  electronic deviices that does everything by voice command and say "Hey Google, what is 0.37mm in inches"

A simple option (if you don't want to use a calculator) is to print a table of converted measurements from inches to mm and keep next to the machine. (like that shown below) Lots more on the internet.

**LINK**

Your example of a conversion for 0.73mm (0.737mm = 29 thou)

Paul

Edited By Paul Lousick on 06/01/2021 04:29:51

Hi Sebastian,

From your description it sounds like there is not much wrong with the engine and as stated above, it may be that the bearings are not exactly in line. Also steam engines need a bit of room to expand when hot and models are often made to too tight a tolerance.

You could assemble the bearings and pass a long reamer of the correct size thru to align and enlarge the bore (if you have one of the correct size) or take a piece of round bar of similar size to the crankshaft and coat with valve grinding paste to lap the bearings for a running fit. Ensure that all paste is removed after lapping.

Paul

Hi Iain,

I had a similar problem making the Stephensons link for my engine. Mine is a bit bigger than the one you are making and has a 335 mm radius instead of 120 mm.

I only had a 150mm dia rotary table and mounted an extension plate to it. The end of the extension plate sits on a support and is captured on the top to prevent any vertical movement. (Milling a curve on a large radius puts a lot of load on the rotary table which I found out the hard way by stripping the worm gear). The rotary table is only used as a pivot point and rotary movement done by a horizontal lead screw at the end.

The material for the link was laser cut from plate and designed with extra lugs for mounting and cut off after machining. The internal slide for the link (shown in LH photo) was made in a similar way but made extra long so it could be bolted at each end and cut to the required length after machining the curves.

As your part only overhangs the rotary table by a small amount you should be OK, just take it easy with light cuts.in a convettional milling direction. Climb milling will drag the job and hammer the gears as you rotate the table.

(The RT has a 3MT taper and a spigot at the end for locating mounting plates on centre)

Paul

Edited By Paul Lousick on 04/01/2021 22:59:39

Walking robot soldiers are already here

**LINK**

**LINK**

Drones are being used in many applications and some resembling birds of prey are used at airports to scare away birds. The photos captured by drones are amazing and I had one on my list to Santa but it didn't arrive. (probably because of the quarantine regulations for international visitors)

The Australian defence force has been using drones for a number of years. **LINK**

The latest which is being developed in Aust. for General Atomics Aeronautical Systems (USA) is the MQ-9 Reaper. An unmanned aerial vehicle capable of remotely controlled or autonomous flight operations.

It has a top speed of 482 km/h and a range of 1,850 km

Thanks Jason, I missed it. Can you delete this post ?

Paul

Drones, pilotless planes and the submarine that was captured in Indonseis have been around for a while. Lots of kids probably got one of the toy flying kind for christmas but smart robots that can dance and walk over different objects without human control are on a higher level.

We have now entered the sci-fi era of Star Wars and War of the Worlds. Boston Dymamics has developed robots/androids that are caple of things which up until now have only been in the movies.

The thought of an actual robot army is a bit scary but could be an idea for some small models.

A couple of videos here (lots mote on line)

Paul

**LINK**

**LINK**

NOT wearing gloves, loose clothing, long hair, etc is one of the first safety warnings in the workshop that I was taught. Loose clothing can easily get caught in mills, lathes, drills, grinders, etc. I'm amazed at how many people post videos and they are wearing gloves.

You were lucky that you only lost a glove and not your hand or arm. It's a good lesson for others.

Paul.