Member postings for Ed Duffner

I'm just wondering if a 4-pole contactor with overload protection would suit this requirement. Any overload on either of the circuits would switch off both mill and power-feed.

Although just thinking about it a bit more. If you had to hit the Em-Stop button on the mill, the feed would still continue to run. So you might need to control the circuit to the power-feed via the EM-stop circuit as well.

Edited By Ed Duffner on 31/05/2013 23:54:18

Hi Jason,

There are a couple of references to books about artillery on this Crimean War Research web page.

**LINK** (bottom of the page).

Regards,
Ed.

I remember seeing a model making tv program where they increased the structural integrity of model aircraft balsa wood many times by applying a super glue(cyano type glue) to it. I suppose it's a bit like case hardening for wood.

In my teens I did some training at British Aerospace, learning to fabricate aircraft parts. In particular using the fly press to make formed holes to remove material but retain strength. Could you possibly add structural holes to any frame work of your Hydro?There are some images of this on Google but I'm not sure if I'm allowed to post a link here without permission from the web site or ME forums.

Hi Rik,

A: The drawbar is just a retaining device, not an ejection device as such. The manual says to undo the securing nut slightly and strike the top of the drawbar with a rubber mallet to free the tapered tool. I believe some of the guys here on the forum have made some kind of bush which will make the bar self ejecting.

B: I imagine this would be similar to a pillar drill. I wouldn't like to say yes or no to this as I'm not experinced enough to confirm use of tanged drills in the WM-16 quill. I don't think there's a slot to insert a drift so it'll be a bu**er trying to get those drills out. Maybe a 2MT/2MT extension sleeve with a drift slot would do it.

C: The drawbar is threaded M10 and when new you also get a 3/8" drawbar for imperial tooling.

D: I use an ER25 collet chuck with the M10 drawbar and a set of ER collets.

BTW, I replied to your other thread asking about Waro WM-16 base dimensions.

Cheers,
Ed.

Progressing with making a new cross slide made from flat stock. These two pieces will eventually form the dovetail.

Ah yes, good point. The circuit feeding the workshop should be RCD protected.

Hi John,

Re: lighting running from ceiling lights. Should be possible if you can wire from the lights to each machine position, it could just be an extension of the switched ceiling circuit or run a permanent live (plus neutral and earth obviously) to each position so you can switch the machine lights individually. Either way would be easy enough if you're planning on running a trunking system around the wall and branch off with conduit to each light.

I've run 4"x2" PVC dado trunking around my shed. PVC due to it being non corrosive. The sockets fit into the trunking and I have lights on the ceiling via conduit and tubular heaters at the back of each machine, well actually just one behind my mill as that's all I have in there for the moment.

Hi Rik,

The WM-16 base casting: 275mm wide, 340mm deep, 95mm high. The Z axis casting added onto the back is an extra 80mm deep.

Tried cutting some EN3B with HSS endmills and a flycutter today, I got about 20mm into the cut, only about 0.2mm depth and the cutter started to burnish rather than remove metal. I then switched to a solid carbide end mill and I'm pleasantly surpised with the finish. I've ordered a brazed carbide tipped left hand turning tool to use in the fly cutter as the carbide endmill is only 6mm diameter and will take forever to machine a few surfaces.

I recently made one from Acetal(Delrin) rod by following the post on another forum:

**LINK**

I've yet to make a sliding mechanism for it and build it in to the apron of my lathe. Hopefully this will give zero backlash and wear on the leadscrew.

I see you've constructed a new light sabre! Your skills are complete.

Your Guitar looks very professionally done Ron. Did you make the fretboard and do all the inlay work as well?

A friend of mine plays Pedal Steel Guitar. I could never understand how these can be played with foot and knee pedals to operate . We used to get together to play Shadows and similar type tunes.

Keep on pickin'
Ed.

Thanks again guys, I really appreciate your technical knowledge and experience. Unfortunately I don't have access to another lathe. I'll see what I can get away with and sort something out. I think the pinch bolt method would match my current skill level.

Cheers for now.

Thanks Ady,

Looking at the photos in the link you provided, the arrangement seems to be a bronze bearing with tapered OD and parallel ID so that as the threaded ring is tighetened it closes the bearing around the spindle to a sliding or running tolerance. To do it this way I'd have to make a tapered housing to accept a bearing and would the bearings themselves be made of ordinary bronze or some special type?

Regards,
Ed.

Edited By Ed Duffner on 07/04/2013 03:34:57

Thank you Bazyle,

To be honest I've no idea as to the design origin. My Dad (also Basil) made it years ago. He was a Fitter at Rolls Royce Filton, Bristol and I was always under the impression it was something he designed and made.

I added the base recently, made from two pieces of 100x100x10 angle welded together and have started converting the leadscrews to metric and delrin half nuts.

Lol, these photos were taken some months back, it's not so shiny now I tried splitting the bearings already and wrapped part of a strap from an electrical earth bonding strap around the full circumference of the bearing like a circular shim and pushed the bearings back in with a clamp, so a very tight fit initially and no play in the bearings, but axial play has reappeared. So I was thinking to chop off the top section of plate on each side and add a flat base with the pillow blocks on.

I suppose another possibility is to use new oilite bearings and turn a new shaft to correct size.

I do like the idea of adding a clamp into the plate.

Before.

After strip-down and repaint.

Here's one of the spindle and bearings. 1" oilite bearings held in the 0.5" steel plate, but the shaft is 25.3mm so I get a bit of judder when taking moderate cuts.

Another angle showing a thrust washer and spindle register.

Edited By Ed Duffner on 06/04/2013 23:14:34

Hi Bazyle,

Thanks for the advice. I've actually just requested a return from the Seller. I'll add add some photos shortly.

Regards,
Ed.

Those new corduroy pillows are making headlines.

...sorry

Edited By Ed Duffner on 06/04/2013 21:53:42

Edited By Ed Duffner on 06/04/2013 22:15:09

David and Neil,

Thanks guys, I'll look at those bearings and see what I can fit in there.

All the best,
Ed.