Member postings for Massimo Dalmonte

In general, the slower the cure, the better the qualities of the final result ( I had some 5 minute glue from a reputed brand that cured like some kind of gum, other were better) and a longer curing time allows for adjustments.

If you are thinking of epoxy for wood joints, this test:

**LINK**

gives food for thought.

Cheers,

Massimo

"I use photo etching, bit expensive for a one-off unless you use sunlight as a UV source.

Neil"

Not necessarily so, here's a little contraption I made with aluminumm sheet, pop rivets and parts from the scrap box when I bought some photoresist PCB laminate at a fair; the vendor told me I could use a Philips TL 8 W tube (standard tube, but it seems they "leak" some UV radiation) for 90 seconds at a distance of 7 cm.

You simply put the "mask" (artwork on a printed drafting paper, best with a laser printer, but inkjet was about the same) on the pcb, a piece of glass over the two ( I quickly took it from a small display case I have, just to show that I'm a casual pcb "developer"...) and this gadget on top.

Results where consistent ( I always turned it on for a few minutes before using it on the pcb, to be sure that it had reached it's working temperature) radiation bounces on the inner walls. Working area 32x13 cm, TL tube axis height (guess...) 7 cm.

I searched now, and found that you can buy UV TL tubes, anyway I think that a standard tube is safer, as the exposition time is longer and plus\minus a couple of seconds won't ruin your pcb.

Anyway experiment on small samples of the pcb laminate you have before trying "full size".

Cheers,

Massimo

Hi Phil,

spot-on, it's Morini 3 1/2 Sport, great handling machine

M

Hi clogs,

just for fun, may I challenge you to take a couple of guesses, before I tell you?

It's from '77 (hint: I'm Italian)

Massimo

I read that Russian Yak-3s during WW2 used the same method to lower the chances of tank explosion when the latter was hit by enemy bullets.

>> I was surprised, when you titled your post "tank restoration" I was thinking Water tank? Army tank? I was not expecting petrol tank.

yes...it didn't come to my mind that the title was a bit generic...perhaps I'm unintentionally drawing more attention....

This tank was responsible for my bike being stopped for the last 25 years: I didn't use it for a couple of years, leaving it in the garage, then when I put some gasoline in the tank to use it again, I saw it dripping on the floor. Some water was in the tank and rust corroded the seam on the left side of it.

Soon found a guy who repaired it with tin solder, but work, lack of time etc. prevented me from completing the repair (removing internal rust, resin lining, painting...)

Good afternoon everybody,

I am restoring my bike and would like to have your opinion about the best way to treat the six small metal tabs fixing the plastic chrome trim along the lower end of the tank:

I'm afraid to snap some of them while opening again and bending, because of work hardening of the metal (I don't know how many times this has been done before, I bought the bike second hand 35 years ago). I understand that I could anyway glue the trim on the edge, but I would like to handle this in the best possible way and, in general, know how to treat similar problems.

What do you think is the best way: heating the tabs while reopening (I can use a small oxy-gas torch I own), annealing them in some way etc...?

Thanks,

Massimo

Hi everybody,

I always wanted to add a tumbler reverse to my ML10, buying or making one.

Didn't know about the Dave Goodwin one, but another was sold by mr. Dave Noble:

when I contacted him (2010), he hadn't any of them anymore and subsequent requests to buy some form of drawing got no replies.

Another model of tumbler was described by mr R.G.Seiman on Model Engineer (19 october 1979) in the following interesting article::

I found these pics on the web some time ago, so I can't give credits to the people who uploaded them..

After seeing the model shown in Robbo's post, I think I have no more excuses and I have to decide which one I'll make.

Cheers,

Massimo

Hi everybody,

it's seems to me that Neil's guess is pretty close ( I was "looking" at the bit in the wrong way, because of the markings, as my pic shows...), only argument against it is that those scribers often have a swan-neck form, but some seen on the web are like this one.

Clive, I thought of it too, but there are no relief angles ground on the bit (perhaps they are not needed for wood?) and there's no positive way to reliably retain it, in case it was rotating at high speed, as is usual for wood.

Good evening,

Massimo

Excuse me, Clive and Thor, I just forgot ...

5 millimeters thick

Massimo

Edited By Massimo Dalmonte on 21/04/2014 10:55:58

Hello everybody,

a few days ago, I purchased from eBay a bit of Deloro Stellite (grade 100) with the intent to use it on my lathe.

Just out of curiosity, I'm wondering if some member of the forum can identify its original purpose, as I'm not sure it was intended as a lathe toolbit.

Cheers,

Massimo

Ian, Rod and Neil, thanks for your replies.

My spindle seems to have been built from a kit, so the spindle shouldn't have been hardened; I think I'll keep around the speeds you suggested and take a great care of lubrication, As the spindle will be used for fairly quick jobs, it should have a rather long life expectancy.

Cheers,

Massimo

Hi everybody,

some months ago, after a long search, I purchased on Ebay a Potts milling spindle; I was wondering about the maximum rpm it can handle safely (bronze or brass plain bearings).

On the web there are formulae to compute this, but perhaps somebody in the forum knows the exact value.

Many thanks,

Massimo