Member postings for Ziggar

just out of curiosity, also checked using Safari and Torch. Both work fine in viewing online using inbuilt pdf readers and downloading

Z

Edited By Ziggar on 04/01/2015 15:04:38

its you.

it works fine for me viewing online and downloading the file using my 2010 iMac 27"

using Fireofx as my main browser

Z

Edited By Ziggar on 04/01/2015 14:32:08

i bought my belts from here one at a time [not rich enough to do both at the same time]

i got the Fenner easy fit type

and ive had no problems at all since changing them

Z

Edited By Ziggar on 02/10/2014 01:06:10

no experience of three phase but i also had severe vibration when using the highest speeds on my S7.
i changed my V type drive belts to the link type and the vibration all but totally dissapeared.
£50 is a hell of a lot cheaper than paying 100s of pounds for 3 phase simply to get rid of vibration

z

Edited By Ziggar on 01/10/2014 23:18:14

i used a simple DPDT switch on my WM14 using this wiring diagram
not sure if it would work on your machine, only you can decide that

works a treat for me
obviously you have to come to a complete stop before changing direction. but you knew that anyway, didnt you

doesnt take long to fix up

Z

Edited By Ziggar on 23/09/2014 12:52:15

why has the photo gone???????

Z

Edited By Ziggar on 29/08/2014 13:59:31

http://tuffsaws.co.uk/

Z

Edited By Ziggar on 25/08/2014 15:33:22

theres one on ebay for sale

http://tinyurl.com/nsow87z

Z

Edited By Ziggar on 06/02/2014 23:10:01

OK so your on about a chuck backplate - NOT a faceplate.
but my original answer still stands, put your faceplate or backplate on to your spindle and turn it until it is running true with your spindle. Then you will have concentricity with your machine. reattach your chuck to the BACKplate using new repositioned fixing holes if needed and using a DTI or some other miniscule distance measuring doodah and adjust until totally or as near as damit its totally central with no discernable runout..

Z

Edited By Ziggar on 03/02/2014 14:04:14

whether the faceplate is out of true or not, surely you use a DTI or something similar to center work pieces so that they run true ?

can you not simply turn the faceplate so that it does run true ?

from what ive learnt over the small amount of time ive put in ive learnt that you dont rely on chucks or faceplates to ever be true to your spindle unless you have worked them to be so

Z

Edited By Ziggar on 03/02/2014 00:20:04

Edited By Ziggar on 31/01/2014 20:51:09

when i had my ML10 it was at least 3 months before i realised that the headstock holding bolts were actually loose. i discovered this one day when trying to drill something with the drill in the tailstock and pushing into the chuck held part, the actual headstock casting slid backwards against the force of the drill in the tailstock being pushed forward. I then had to take the time to retighten the bolts holding the headstock in place and hope that they were tightened correctly and with enough torque .

could this perhaps be something to do with your problem? one of the headstock holding clamps being loose allowing the headstock to twist a little, giving you an increased runout ?

something to check maybe

Z

perhaps you simply need to learn how to part off with your lathe

its not as simple as it looks, although it isnt rocket science either, just needs to be done right

you seem to be blaming the supplier for what seems to be your fault, probably being too aggresive with tthe tool

learn to part off properly - or at least better, and the inserts are a great way of doing it

have a look on youtube for examples of how to do it

it is obviously an incorrect url to an intended ad for this website

simply typing in the ip address of the url takes you to http://www.adbutler.com/ where you can draw your own conclusions

i will once again suggest that adblock plus is installed in all browsers to stop these crappy ads appearing

and lidl

i think the clutch has to be engaged when making the adjustment - so that is the clutch lever towards the left - in towards the clutch mechanism

i think ..................

try it

Z

unfortunately i only have the one lathe available [the S7] so wouldn't be able to do this conversion
although the other one is still a likely candidate at some time in the future

it would be a nice touch if hemingways were to offer a pre machined pulley if wanted/needed

perhaps something for them to think about ?

Z

Edited By Ziggar on 16/12/2013 18:13:43

thanks for that

i always thought that the catalogues would simply reflect the website contents

seems i was wrong

off to hemingways site i go

Z

do you have a link to the kit you are referring to because all i can find is the kit for the main 4 step pulley arrangement between the countershaft and the mandrel

Thanks

Z

i didnt realise that the motor pulley was part of the deal, nor does it say anything about it on the hemingways website. unless you mean the countershaft pulley.

either way, im looking forward to regular updates from you on this. lots of photos and updates as you go along

good luck with it

Z