Member postings for Alan Marshall 1

I am happy to say the new circuit board XMT2315 is now working on my mill. A big thank you to Arc for their assistance.

For the record the XMT 2315 board requires a different potentiometer to the original so if you do get the new board from Arc, get the matching potentiometer too.

The new board has clearly marked connectors for L1 and L2 being mains and DC+ and DC- for the motor. the switch on the potentiometer has its terminals at the back A and B and these go to K1 and K2. There is a connector marked GAN this is an earth connection and need not be connected as it goes nowhere on the board. There is another terminal block towards the rear of the board having two terminals. This is for an Estop switch and needs a link if no Estop switch is present. The pot three leads on a plug just plug into the board.

I did a mod to the wiring as the original has the live neutral going to the common of the orange and green lamps. I cut this and made the neutral termination direct into the board ( My green lamp was defunct anyway). If you do not want to do this a new wire will need to be soldered in place to get the live neutral to the board.

The rear switch on the mains switch with wires identified 6 and 7 is not used so these wires can be removed or isolated.

The only peculiarity of all the above is that the orange lamp is now on when running. But I guess that is no worry.

The motor sound different when running and I guess this is due to the replacement board being a SCR (Thyrister) control rather than a PWM (pulse width modulated) control.

My next check is to see how it performs under load. Hopefully I will see no difference.

I will Ian, when its resolved.

That is an interesting circuit because it shows a link for an emergencey stop between K3 and K4 I do not have that link in.
I have spoken to Arc and they want the board back to check that it works in their mill. I will be speaking to them again once they have received it and will ask them about the ES link.

Thanks both, I have the correct pot and arceuro sell the board as a replacement but without circuit data.

My Arc Eurotrade X1 mill developed a fault and the motor control would not run correctly. The motor control, board was of the type FC150BJ which is no longer available but the replacement is supposed to be XMT2315.
I have purchased this from Arc eurotrade but it comes with no circuit connection information. I do have the correct potentiomenter for it.
Having explored the web The Clark Lathe manual has a connection drawing which I have tried but does not work.

Has anyone successfully fitted this board into nthe X! mill? If so what connectiuon arrangement is used.

The connections for the XMT2315 I have tried without success are:

gan... not used
L1 neutral
L2 Live 240V
A- DC out
A+ DC out

K1 and K2 I am unsure I have tried with a switch contact from the on/off/reverse and with no connection at all.

The poetentiometer wires are the same for both boards and go to a plug/socket arrangement.

Thanks for the reponses.

I have a resistance soldering unit but it is not man enough to provide the heat required.

I prefer not to use epoxy if possible but it is not ruled out.

A big lump of metal as a heat sink made it more difficult to heat so I did not pursue it further.

I did however discover that if I used the soldering iron from inside the splasher components and the bits were adequately tinned I could get the solder to flow and make a join. This way I am not heating up the big mass of sole plate and letting the small bit get very hot and the heat transfer through the solder occurs. Its very fiddly as it needs the big iron. That worked for the splasher side plates OK. Getting the top of the splasher on I used a lower melting point solder (140 degrees) to try to avoid desoldering the sides and because it is curved the big iron was even more fiddly but evenyually it made the joint. So that was one done as a trial to get the method. Just another7 to do.

The sole plate of my loco tender is 20g brass sheet. It is 26" x 9 1/2".

There are eight wheel splashers to be soldered in place the splashers being 20g and 2 1/8" long by 9/32" high in 7/8" wide slots in the sole plate.

Now the heat needed to solder (at 180 degrees) causes the sole plate to bow when using a large soldering iron (1/2" tip) which means the splasher plate cannot adhere to the sole plate in a level plane. The same occurs if I use a gas torch (naturally so).

An advice on how to make a sucessful joint would be appreciated.

Anyone with one of their A4's run them yet after all the lockdown issues preventing running?

I have just taken delivery of the A4. Its a very nice finished loco but it is sat in the workshop until both the lockdown is eased and the weather improves, then I can get my boiler tests done and see how it steams and runs.

I am building the Breeze A1 and it has the same arrangement. I have chosen to make my pipes from the splitter all the same length as near as possible. Like you I am concerned about starvation as if there is a problem its a boiler off job to get at the feeds. Of course the non return valves could also be a cause for unbalanced flow.. They too are inaccessible once the boiler is on. My choice means its try it and see and keep fingers crossed!

I am surprised there is little posted on the new range of 5" loco's by Kingscale. The 14xx has been out for a while now and deliveries are happening on the Jubilee.

Any one had a boiler built for an A1 peppercorn as drawn by M Breeze? I am looking for a potentail supplier.

Michael,

Could'nt agree with you more.

All of what you have said is already catered for in some form or other and we run a documented H&S policy... albeit embryonic (but still cm thick) at the moment but getting better.......

It's interesting that lots can raise H&S questions... but few if any have answers!! But once a questoin is asked it means that a "reasonable man" needs to make endeavours to provide an answer.... for the record of course!!

We have been successfuly pulling public for many years now and all this H&S is becoming a nightmare; not just for us of course. Pity the litigation culture of the USA ever hit our shores because that is always the argument or should I say fear, whereas previously common sense on safety worked well enough.

The original concept of the H&S at work Act has long been lost I think.

Sorry if the subject is not a locomotive but ther is nowhere else to deal with rolling stock.......

My question is: is there any Society running braked passenger cars for public hauling that has a specification or data that deals with the acceptable braking efficiency of a passenger car?

The question arise because of the usual H&S issues surrounding public passengers (or perhaps any passengers for that matter). The question is not simple of course as car loading, speed, brake type ect all have a bearing but in the end would something simple like a loaded car(specify weight) must stop in X feet when the brake is applied at Y mph?

Replies on a post card!

Alan